New Suspension - Any thoughts?
07-08-2013, 08:17 PM
#31
Don't be afraid of getting a PHB that requires you to disconnect one end to adjust, either. Once you dial it in - which might take two or three attempts - it's very doubtful that you'll ever change it again (unless you change rear springs again).
An on-car adjustable PHB with the adjustment smack-dab in the middle going loose concerns me from a structural perspective for more reasons than just the fact that it went loose on you. A symmetrical appearance is not the hot tip here.
Norm
An on-car adjustable PHB with the adjustment smack-dab in the middle going loose concerns me from a structural perspective for more reasons than just the fact that it went loose on you. A symmetrical appearance is not the hot tip here.
Norm
Agreed.
07-09-2013, 06:06 AM
#32
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: TX
Posts: 680
I went with this one:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/jm-adj...rce=igodigital
The install was a breeze and the adjustments can be reached easily.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/jm-adj...rce=igodigital
The install was a breeze and the adjustments can be reached easily.
07-09-2013, 06:17 AM
#33
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: TX
Posts: 680
To the OP, this following are the suspension parts I've installed in my car over the last year:
Eibach Pro springs
Koni Str.t shocks/struts
Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates
Eibach adjustable sway bars
FRPP panhard bar
Whiteline Panhard bar brace
Whitelin LCA relocation brackets
SR Performance LCAs
Steeda front LCAs
Steeda bump-steer kit
I'm currently working toward replacing the panhard bar/panhard bar brace with a Fays2 watts link.
Camber bolts are sufficient for a lightly driving street car, but caster/camber plates are more adjustable in terms of tuning the suspension.
The rear LCA relocation brackets will allow more power to hit the ground because they correct the LCA geometry. I recommend getting adjustable rear LCAs if you get relocation brackets to avoid potential pinion angle problems when you use the brackets.
Eibach Pro springs
Koni Str.t shocks/struts
Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates
Eibach adjustable sway bars
FRPP panhard bar
Whiteline Panhard bar brace
Whitelin LCA relocation brackets
SR Performance LCAs
Steeda front LCAs
Steeda bump-steer kit
I'm currently working toward replacing the panhard bar/panhard bar brace with a Fays2 watts link.
Camber bolts are sufficient for a lightly driving street car, but caster/camber plates are more adjustable in terms of tuning the suspension.
The rear LCA relocation brackets will allow more power to hit the ground because they correct the LCA geometry. I recommend getting adjustable rear LCAs if you get relocation brackets to avoid potential pinion angle problems when you use the brackets.
07-09-2013, 06:22 AM
#34
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: TX
Posts: 680
Don't be afraid of getting a PHB that requires you to disconnect one end to adjust, either. Once you dial it in - which might take two or three attempts - it's very doubtful that you'll ever change it again (unless you change rear springs again).
An on-car adjustable PHB with the adjustment smack-dab in the middle going loose concerns me from a structural perspective for more reasons than just the fact that it went loose on you. A symmetrical appearance is not the hot tip here.
An on-car adjustable PHB with the adjustment smack-dab in the middle going loose concerns me from a structural perspective for more reasons than just the fact that it went loose on you. A symmetrical appearance is not the hot tip here.
The bar the OP cited has a dual adjustment, but both adjustments are right at the end of the bar. This design makes it impossible to tighten the lock nut whit the bar is on the car. Even locking it down when it's out of the car is a pain because invariably, you twist the end and it won't allow the bolt to go through when you try to put it in the car. If you force it, you will most likely loosed the lock nut again.
Like I said, the J&M aluminum panhard bar is a hassle. When you're under the car in 100+ degree heat, the last thing you need is a part that requires you to repeatedly get out from under the car to tweak it. The J&M Steel bar is only $10 more and is a better configuration.
07-09-2013, 11:05 AM
#36
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: SC
Posts: 337
Rears are all installed without issue. One of my STR struts was bad out of the box when I went to do the fronts so the fronts won't be done for Mustang Week as they are still backordered forever...
07-11-2013, 04:09 PM
#37
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: California
Posts: 56
Don't be afraid of getting a PHB that requires you to disconnect one end to adjust, either. Once you dial it in - which might take two or three attempts - it's very doubtful that you'll ever change it again (unless you change rear springs again).
An on-car adjustable PHB with the adjustment smack-dab in the middle going loose concerns me from a structural perspective for more reasons than just the fact that it went loose on you. A symmetrical appearance is not the hot tip here.
Norm
An on-car adjustable PHB with the adjustment smack-dab in the middle going loose concerns me from a structural perspective for more reasons than just the fact that it went loose on you. A symmetrical appearance is not the hot tip here.
Norm
Do you have a suggestion for what you mention above-- a PHB that requires disconnect to adjust? I like the J&M adjustable option, but am curious which you would recommend. Thnx-
07-12-2013, 07:00 PM
#39
07-15-2013, 01:48 PM
#40
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Let's let the suspension get done and a few track days under OP's belt first. Cording sets of Hoosiers while you're still learning how to drive anywhere near that hard somewhere near right gets ex$$$$pensive in a hurry. Either that or you heat-cycle them out of their best grip without ever benefitting from it.
Norm
Norm