Eibach adjustable sway bars
Eibach adjustable sway bars
05-12-2013, 08:46 AM
#2
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Doesn't matter whose adjustable sta-bars you have, start them out full soft front and rear. Drive around for a while so that you can decide for yourself if you need firmer roll control and whether you need to either dial out some understeer or add a little more margin against getting the tail loose for the way you tend to drive. Then try different adjustment settings.
Norm
Norm
05-12-2013, 09:57 AM
#3
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: TX
Posts: 220
Hi Norm,
I'm looking to upgrade my stock sway bars that came in my brembo track package, I am looking for a more neutral handling in the track (no understeer or body roll). Which sway bars do you recommend. Right now I have KONI STRT & Steeda sports, gt500 shock mounts. 275/40R19 rears and stock 255/40r19 on stock brembo wheels, but planing to go square to 275's. Tires Michelin Super Sport. After the sways then will look for watts links to get a close IRS feeling, without the rear jumping sideways while taking curves with bumps.
I'm looking to upgrade my stock sway bars that came in my brembo track package, I am looking for a more neutral handling in the track (no understeer or body roll). Which sway bars do you recommend. Right now I have KONI STRT & Steeda sports, gt500 shock mounts. 275/40R19 rears and stock 255/40r19 on stock brembo wheels, but planing to go square to 275's. Tires Michelin Super Sport. After the sways then will look for watts links to get a close IRS feeling, without the rear jumping sideways while taking curves with bumps.
05-12-2013, 01:16 PM
#4
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Completely eliminating roll is neither a reasonable nor a desirable goal. Ultimately, you'd end up driving a big go-kart with bodywork and less ability to tune the understeer/oversteer balance.
Tuning the handling ultimately is really the process of you tweaking it to suit your driving style and preferences. A "smoother" driver can expect to be more comfortable with a car that's closer to neutral than a person who is more "abrupt" with the steering and pedal inputs. A truly neutral car is probably too loose for most folks to consistently drive hard - at the very least you'd have to be more patient about adding throttle on corner exit. Every time, since you don't get any free "do-overs".
When you go "square" with the tires, consider going "square" with the wheel widths as well and don't squeeze your tires down on rims of minimum recommended width. I don't offhand know what the track package wheel widths and offsets are, but I do know that 275/40-18 tires on 18x10 front wheels will work up front as long as the offset is approximately +43. Just a thought, but why not look at the 275/35-19's? They're 0.2" wider at the tread than the 275/40-19's, within about 1/8" of the OD of the 275/40-18, and still have plenty of load capacity relative to the car's weight.
About bar settings . . .
Without knowing bar rates or how they were measured, I'd rather not suggest any settings.
Right now, I have Sam's bars (35mm front, 22mm rear), which may not line up very well with anybody else's bar sets. But I can tell you that for me, most of my driving, and the rest of the setup, I don't think want to stiffen the front any further than where it is without swapping to his 25mm rear bar. I suspect that Sam only carries the 25mm rear bar now, so my settings won't even help you if you get his bars. In some thread or other on some forum or other there were some bar stiffnesses posted, but the list was far from being all-inclusive.
Norm
Tuning the handling ultimately is really the process of you tweaking it to suit your driving style and preferences. A "smoother" driver can expect to be more comfortable with a car that's closer to neutral than a person who is more "abrupt" with the steering and pedal inputs. A truly neutral car is probably too loose for most folks to consistently drive hard - at the very least you'd have to be more patient about adding throttle on corner exit. Every time, since you don't get any free "do-overs".
When you go "square" with the tires, consider going "square" with the wheel widths as well and don't squeeze your tires down on rims of minimum recommended width. I don't offhand know what the track package wheel widths and offsets are, but I do know that 275/40-18 tires on 18x10 front wheels will work up front as long as the offset is approximately +43. Just a thought, but why not look at the 275/35-19's? They're 0.2" wider at the tread than the 275/40-19's, within about 1/8" of the OD of the 275/40-18, and still have plenty of load capacity relative to the car's weight.
About bar settings . . .
Without knowing bar rates or how they were measured, I'd rather not suggest any settings.
Right now, I have Sam's bars (35mm front, 22mm rear), which may not line up very well with anybody else's bar sets. But I can tell you that for me, most of my driving, and the rest of the setup, I don't think want to stiffen the front any further than where it is without swapping to his 25mm rear bar. I suspect that Sam only carries the 25mm rear bar now, so my settings won't even help you if you get his bars. In some thread or other on some forum or other there were some bar stiffnesses posted, but the list was far from being all-inclusive.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 05-12-2013 at 01:19 PM.
05-19-2013, 07:09 PM
#6
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: TX
Posts: 220
Completely eliminating roll is neither a reasonable nor a desirable goal. Ultimately, you'd end up driving a big go-kart with bodywork and less ability to tune the understeer/oversteer balance.
Tuning the handling ultimately is really the process of you tweaking it to suit your driving style and preferences. A "smoother" driver can expect to be more comfortable with a car that's closer to neutral than a person who is more "abrupt" with the steering and pedal inputs. A truly neutral car is probably too loose for most folks to consistently drive hard - at the very least you'd have to be more patient about adding throttle on corner exit. Every time, since you don't get any free "do-overs".
When you go "square" with the tires, consider going "square" with the wheel widths as well and don't squeeze your tires down on rims of minimum recommended width. I don't offhand know what the track package wheel widths and offsets are, but I do know that 275/40-18 tires on 18x10 front wheels will work up front as long as the offset is approximately +43. Just a thought, but why not look at the 275/35-19's? They're 0.2" wider at the tread than the 275/40-19's, within about 1/8" of the OD of the 275/40-18, and still have plenty of load capacity relative to the car's weight.
About bar settings . . .
Without knowing bar rates or how they were measured, I'd rather not suggest any settings.
Right now, I have Sam's bars (35mm front, 22mm rear), which may not line up very well with anybody else's bar sets. But I can tell you that for me, most of my driving, and the rest of the setup, I don't think want to stiffen the front any further than where it is without swapping to his 25mm rear bar. I suspect that Sam only carries the 25mm rear bar now, so my settings won't even help you if you get his bars. In some thread or other on some forum or other there were some bar stiffnesses posted, but the list was far from being all-inclusive.
Norm
Tuning the handling ultimately is really the process of you tweaking it to suit your driving style and preferences. A "smoother" driver can expect to be more comfortable with a car that's closer to neutral than a person who is more "abrupt" with the steering and pedal inputs. A truly neutral car is probably too loose for most folks to consistently drive hard - at the very least you'd have to be more patient about adding throttle on corner exit. Every time, since you don't get any free "do-overs".
When you go "square" with the tires, consider going "square" with the wheel widths as well and don't squeeze your tires down on rims of minimum recommended width. I don't offhand know what the track package wheel widths and offsets are, but I do know that 275/40-18 tires on 18x10 front wheels will work up front as long as the offset is approximately +43. Just a thought, but why not look at the 275/35-19's? They're 0.2" wider at the tread than the 275/40-19's, within about 1/8" of the OD of the 275/40-18, and still have plenty of load capacity relative to the car's weight.
About bar settings . . .
Without knowing bar rates or how they were measured, I'd rather not suggest any settings.
Right now, I have Sam's bars (35mm front, 22mm rear), which may not line up very well with anybody else's bar sets. But I can tell you that for me, most of my driving, and the rest of the setup, I don't think want to stiffen the front any further than where it is without swapping to his 25mm rear bar. I suspect that Sam only carries the 25mm rear bar now, so my settings won't even help you if you get his bars. In some thread or other on some forum or other there were some bar stiffnesses posted, but the list was far from being all-inclusive.
Norm
05-20-2013, 06:40 AM
#7
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
The only rear bar Sam currently lists under "Stranoparts" is the #8419, which is 1" (25mm, more or less). Digging up my old invoice, the 22mm (7/8") rear bar was part #8337. For a short time, both rear bar sizes were available.
The 25mm rear bar is significantly stiffer than either the 2008's OE 20mm solid rear bar or the 22mm tubular bar.
Norm
The 25mm rear bar is significantly stiffer than either the 2008's OE 20mm solid rear bar or the 22mm tubular bar.
Norm
05-21-2013, 07:14 PM
#8
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: TX
Posts: 220
The only rear bar Sam currently lists under "Stranoparts" is the #8419, which is 1" (25mm, more or less). Digging up my old invoice, the 22mm (7/8") rear bar was part #8337. For a short time, both rear bar sizes were available.
The 25mm rear bar is significantly stiffer than either the 2008's OE 20mm solid rear bar or the 22mm tubular bar.
Norm
The 25mm rear bar is significantly stiffer than either the 2008's OE 20mm solid rear bar or the 22mm tubular bar.
Norm
05-22-2013, 05:41 AM
#9
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Keep in mind that "stiffer" is not an end in itself, only to the extent that it balances whatever else you do to make the car's handling balanced to suit you and your driving.
"Significantly stiffer" is about 50% more, for whatever that might be worth.
Norm
"Significantly stiffer" is about 50% more, for whatever that might be worth.
Norm
