E_cox310

I just checked out the watts link kit, and man it's expensive. Not in my budget at the moment. I think what I will do is maybe LCA and relocation brackets when school is out. I bought my car used so I assumed that they are the K springs but they could be the P springs, can't see the part number, but I know they are Ford Racing.
So I know this is a typical question but I figured we are talking I might as well ask you guys. Which LCA's and/or relocation brackets in particular should I go with? I know it won't eliminate my problem, but I just want it minimized.
Here are some pics of my undercarriage as reference..

UPRSharad

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-c...ushing-05.html

There ya go. The LCA and Relo bracket package is toward the bottom. Those are Made in America and they carry a Lifetime Guarantee!

Norm Peterson

Getting a stick axle car to accelerate smoothly on a washboard road (what you seem to be describing) is problematic at best.

First line of defense might be to check what the rear tires are inflated to. If you've still got 32 or more psi in them, it's too much. Try running 28. Those 295/35-20's will still have adequate load capacity at that pressure, especially if you don't commonly carry lots of heavy stuff in the trunk or adult passengers in the rear seat very often. How wide are your rear wheels? That might affect my recommendation slightly.

Next is rear shocks. Ford's OE shock/strut valving philosophy is a bit on the harsh side, which I think may have carried over to the FRPP line. Honestly, with the stiffer springs I'd take a long and very serious look at the Koni Sports (aka "yellows, and adjustable). Although the STR.t's are a little lighter on the wallet, the adjustability of the yellows gives you a better chance to solve your problem (hint: start full soft and dial them up in 1/8 turn increments, hint #2, it's OK if the front struts are set a little firmer than the rear shocks - or even a little softer for some conditions and driving styles).

You've got the 4.6, so if you really aren't getting all that hard into the throttle I doubt that you're getting wheel hop directly from the power. Only from the road contour. That's not to say that aftermarket LCAs and possibly relo brackets won't help, just that I'd try the other things first.

A Watts link could conceivably help a little in a few specific situations, but I wouldn't rank it very high here even though it's a pretty good mod for the more serious corner-carver.


Norm

E_cox310

I remember the last time I had my alignment, it read 32psi in the rear. That was about 3 weeks ago. My rear wheel width is 10.5 inches. If I were to change my shocks and struts later on in the future when these go bad, I'll look into the Koni's. For the meantime, I'm just trying to find small upgrades that can make the rear end a little more firm/planted when driving on uneven roads (if possible). Watts link is most likely out of the question, college budget doesn't allow me too.

Norm Peterson

10.5" is wide enough for what I suggested - it's actually the measuring width rim for that size tire. With narrower rims, a little extra inflation can crutch a slightly vague or "woozy" feel (at the expense of faster tread center wear rates).


Norm

CMcNam

I love this guy. Everything you say is something useful. Learn something new every time.

Not like me, mine's mostly nonsense!