CMcNam

1.) New shocks and struts are a good idea after lowering springs because your stockers are crap and you run the risk of shortening the stockers' life with lowering springs. They will also help reduce body roll among other benefits.

2.) I would wait to buy these in case you find that new shocks and struts brings your body roll into what you deem to be acceptable limits. If you still feel you have too much body roll, these will help.

3.) Good idea after lowering to bring your front end back into spec and increase the life of your tires. Also check out J&M, Steeda, and a few others.

4.) If you get adjustable camber plates, GT500 strut mounts are not necessary as they go in the same location, but GT500 strut mounts are not adjustable.

5.) Adjustable panhard bar is good for a lowered vehicle. It'll help you center your axle again after lowering kicks it to one side.

6.) I don't know enough about UCAs to make a suggestion. I would wait to buy this until after you've determined that it will fix a problem the other mods haven't.

7.) Do you suffer from wheel hop? If so, upgraded LCAs are the way to go, along with LCA relo brackets. If you do not feel the need for them after all your other mods, then don't buy them.

Probably should have done that from the beginning.

Disclaimer: I'm not an expert, so if someone finds something wrong and corrects it, I'm totally cool with that.

VistaBlueFrank68

Whiteline Lower Control Brackets on BMR LCA's.


Howdy, I have a 2013 Race Red GT/CS which I have done all you are doing:
No on that rubber crap stiff strut thing, It doesn't fit on up-graded struts.
No on Camber plate, ask yourself are you going to have your pit crew change the adjustment from day to day? are you lowered more than an " or "1/2? - No? then you don't need it. What if it comes loose on the drag strip, get the Camber Bolts $24.95 Steada Bump Steer $169 and X-11 Balljoints $157. That will flatten out your front tires and reduce Bump Steer? When you hit a bump the reverse of your steering efforts translate up to your steering wheel and your car jinks left and right, because the Tie Rod is a set length and it swings up and down with the suspension but because it acts like a pendulum it pulls and pushes on the steer tire causing un-commanded steering. Bump Steer will fix that.
Relocation Bracket - look at your LCA it's horizontal, under force it will bend/flex and rob your forward ET. Reloc-Brk will create a triangle (stronger geometry) with the frame, LCA and the Bracket. Less smoke more launch.
What good are those 420 horses if you can't control and use them - One piece aluminum driveshaft with steel clutch hydraulic line and a short throw shifter with a bottom bracket.
Brakes on the GT are good add Low Expansion Lines (Boss) Ceramic pads, and fancy caliper covers and save a bunch. Unless I'm going to do a NASCAR race I can't justify $3-4K on brakes.
I also have an SCT 92 tune and Boss intake with exhaust work, it dyno'ed 410 at the wheel.
I'm in the Auburn Wash area so I use "The Mustang Shop". They're expensive but they can handle any job and then tune and test all their work.
With that strut mount stiffener, I threw it out, it wasn't worth my time to mail it back.
Next on my list, tires and Kooks LT with Shorty Cat-X$ maybe a PnC on the heads later - that will put me at or above 450 wheel. No Blow/Spray on my 11:1 comp pistons. My warranty is already toast.

DocSnickers

Yeah love the work TMS does. Got my springs through them. They happened to have them on hand when I did my exhaust. Since I planned on doing springs I just bought em and had them put on the same day.

The ride is decent right now it just tends to do pendulum effect your talking about. The car's mostly a daily drive and for shows it might hit track day for Mustang Round Up here in July but that will really be its only track time every year. Which is why I was considering the GT500 Strut Mounts instead of Camber Plates.

VistaBlueFrank68

The Camber plates and the Strut mount stiffener are apples and oranges. Not for the same thing nor interchangeable. Camber plates allow multiple orientations of the struts and to the tire attached. GT-500 is just a stiffer then stock rubber plug to hold the strut in place.

I use a Cam Bolt because it's install and that's it. Tire flat on the ground, less wear and I have no intention of tinkering with my alignment on the side of the road.

Later.

DocSnickers

Makes good sense, don't really want to touch mine either just want it flat with no excessive wear.

UPRSharad

Yep, PHB is needed to center the rear end, and there is some benefit to the poly PHB bushings over the stock rubber ones, but I'd be lying if I told you it was a huge difference.

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-p...rd-bar-05.html

VistaBlueFrank68

Adjustable PanHard Bar is needed if you put fat tires on because one side may rub.
I also think lowering springs with stock struts and shocks might not work together well?
Later.