Front end popping, pinpointing it right now, looking for advice
#1
Front end popping, pinpointing it right now, looking for advice
So I've been having front end popping issues when cornering, decided it's time to fix it now before it gets worse.
I've got my front end up on jack stands right now. The front tires are off the ground. When I turn the wheel lock to lock I can hear the popping, it's just not nearly as loud as when the tires are on the ground and the car is in motion.
List of mods is in my signature. I'm no mechanic but I'm no dummy either. I installed all these mods myself, no problems till a month or two ago, been installed 2-3 years. Looking for advice on how to further pinpoint my problem, i.e. take the strut assembly out and turn stuff, etc.
I've got my front end up on jack stands right now. The front tires are off the ground. When I turn the wheel lock to lock I can hear the popping, it's just not nearly as loud as when the tires are on the ground and the car is in motion.
List of mods is in my signature. I'm no mechanic but I'm no dummy either. I installed all these mods myself, no problems till a month or two ago, been installed 2-3 years. Looking for advice on how to further pinpoint my problem, i.e. take the strut assembly out and turn stuff, etc.
#2
After turning the wheel lock to lock by hand some more and keeping one hand on various parts trying to feel for the pop, I think I've narrowed it down to my right front end-link (if that is what you call the ~1ft vertical rod with the end links on it. It is the only thing I can really feel the pop through. Not the steeda upper strut mounts or the steering knuckle (not sure what to call this, steering rod?)
What's my recommended upgrade? Steeda street/comp, scott drake, strano comp?
What's my recommended upgrade? Steeda street/comp, scott drake, strano comp?
Last edited by gmoran1469; 09-01-2013 at 08:02 PM.
#3
Went ahead and placed an order for the Strano Comp w/ the QA1 rod ends. They looked to be the beefiest of the ones I looked at. That and I ordered a UPR catch can to replace the breathers I had installed, getting tired of wiping up the oil on the passenger side of the engine every week. Gonna install the catch can and detail the engine bay.
#4
When I go to install these (they will probably come with instructions but just in case)... How do I adjust the properly? Set the car on the ground and adjust until the roto joints are parallel?
#6
Strut links or your ball joints are the cause of your popping since you already replaced the strut mounts with Steeda one.
Strut links were typically fixed by tightening them to 89ft/lbs.
The ball joints require removal and replacement of either the ball joint itself or the entire control arm.
The links themselves (at least the stock ones) are not adjustable but you should tighten all suspension parts with the suspension loaded like you mentioned.
I'm surprised too that no one else has chimed into this thread. It is a very common problem on the S197 models. (suspension popping/knocking).
Strut links were typically fixed by tightening them to 89ft/lbs.
The ball joints require removal and replacement of either the ball joint itself or the entire control arm.
The links themselves (at least the stock ones) are not adjustable but you should tighten all suspension parts with the suspension loaded like you mentioned.
I'm surprised too that no one else has chimed into this thread. It is a very common problem on the S197 models. (suspension popping/knocking).
#7
Strut links or your ball joints are the cause of your popping since you already replaced the strut mounts with Steeda one.
Strut links were typically fixed by tightening them to 89ft/lbs.
The ball joints require removal and replacement of either the ball joint itself or the entire control arm.
The links themselves (at least the stock ones) are not adjustable but you should tighten all suspension parts with the suspension loaded like you mentioned.
I'm surprised too that no one else has chimed into this thread. It is a very common problem on the S197 models. (suspension popping/knocking).
Strut links were typically fixed by tightening them to 89ft/lbs.
The ball joints require removal and replacement of either the ball joint itself or the entire control arm.
The links themselves (at least the stock ones) are not adjustable but you should tighten all suspension parts with the suspension loaded like you mentioned.
I'm surprised too that no one else has chimed into this thread. It is a very common problem on the S197 models. (suspension popping/knocking).
#8
Man, you used to have to keep people out your thread here, now it's a freakin wasteland. Site sure went to **** quick. Anyone know any other mustang forums that has a large active user base?
#10
I have drakes endlinks. They said to run the rod out till the bar is parallel to the lca. Then tighten the jam nuts. Mine still rattled so what i did is hold the sway bar in one hand then shorten the rod so nothing was loose. Then hit the jam nuts. My problem is loosness in the ball end. The drakes have a little play that is hard to get compressed. Do yours have any playin the spherical joints? Looking for ones that dont for my car & my rattle is solved.