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still rattles after whiteline front bar install - all bolts torqued to spec

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Old 09-06-2013, 08:27 PM   #1
basshed
 
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Default still rattles after whiteline front bar install - all bolts torqued to spec

I've searched the forum pretty thoroughly so bear with this repeat. I'm new on here though have been modifying cars for many years. This is my first Mustang - it's a 2014 V6 Manual, only options are the Tech package with Sync.

So I replaced the front sway bar with a whiteline adjustable & it's adjustable links. The first trip out it was obvious the ends of the endlinks were incredibly loose which knocked the jam nuts on the adjusters loose. So it made a high pitched rattle everywhere.

Tightened everything up and it still was rattling so I had a shop tighten the endlinks. turns out I stripped one of the nuts so I bought drakes end links which have a bit more isolation. Swapped those in. Still rattles so I bought a torque wrench, looked up the torque specs which are 52 ft-lbs for the brackets on the radiator & 86 ft lbs on the endlinks. rand all bolts to spec & took a drive tonight. still have a moderate rattle on side roads & poor parking lots. No rattle on smooth asphalt or on smooth Highways at high speeds. so it's a slow cycle rattle at side road speeds... kinda like a loose endlink but it's not. They aren't loose.

Any clues? Thanks!
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Old 09-06-2013, 10:47 PM   #2
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Not a clue never had an issue myself. Maybe you got a bad one call up Whiteline and see if they can get you a replacement.
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Old 09-07-2013, 12:53 AM   #3
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Did you use drive on ramps so that the suspension was fully loaded when you torqued the sway bar and end links? If not, this could be the cause of NVH. Also, did your sway bar come with lateral locks?
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Old 09-07-2013, 10:46 AM   #4
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I don't have ramps so I got the bolts snug on the ground. I did this by turning the wheels & using a heavy socket. Not comfy but I got them tight. Then put it up on jacks enough that a torque wrench could reach & still turn. I suspect it's got something to do with that but it doesn't make sense if the car was on the ground when I set the bolts why finishing them on jacks would make a difference?
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Old 09-07-2013, 10:46 AM   #5
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I do have lateral locks. I haven't installed them - can't hurt to do so, tho I'll do it tomorrow.
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Old 09-07-2013, 11:50 AM   #6
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Uh that could be the issue you need to take the load off the car to do it right.
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Old 09-07-2013, 01:05 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basshed View Post
I don't have ramps so I got the bolts snug on the ground. I did this by turning the wheels & using a heavy socket. Not comfy but I got them tight. Then put it up on jacks enough that a torque wrench could reach & still turn. I suspect it's got something to do with that but it doesn't make sense if the car was on the ground when I set the bolts why finishing them on jacks would make a difference?
See link. The first note in Stage 1. Swaybar Fitment says that you should ALWAYS TIGHTEN AT RIDE HEIGHT - which suggests that the suspension should be loaded. So, finishing them on jacks does seem to make a difference.

http://www.whiteline.com.au/instruct...ar_general.pdf

Hope this solves your problem.
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Old 09-09-2013, 11:44 PM   #8
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So I bought ramps, but the car up on them tonight. Loosened everything up, pulled the k-member so I could put in the lateral locks. Retorqued everything while on the ramps despite being a totally uncomfortable affair. Started with the sway bar itself, torqued to exactly 52ft-lbs. then torqued the links to 86ft-lbs. reinstalled the k-brace, re installed all the trim pieces. Took the car out for a drive, still rattles. So I retorqued the k-brace which wasn't so good. found two figures for that one was 65ft-lbs & the other was 150. so I eased up to the 65 ft-lbs and just a smidge more. snapped two of those bolts - yes, I was being careful... the factory bolts have no forgiveness in them at all which bothers me to no end. the replacement bolts i get from fordparts take a lot more abuse. So 65 is about where it belongs. So waiting on fordparts to deliver me those bolts. Still.... I have no idea what's rattling.
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Old 09-10-2013, 11:04 AM   #9
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I feel for you sir. I've read a couple of posts from folks with similar issues on their 2013 'stangs. In both cases the issue was the end link bushing. Evidently, the bushing does not wrap around the sway bar tight enough even with the proper torque; and NVH through the sway bar is really noticeable. The solution in both cases was to add a washer to the outside of the end link and torque to spec. It eliminated NVH. I would recommend you try that first and if the rattle is still there, re-install the OEM end link and see if that helps. The OEM solution may not be ideal but at least you'll be able to narrow down causes of the noise through the process of elimination. Good Luck!
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Old 09-10-2013, 11:17 AM   #10
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Yeah, I saw that washer trick worked for others. I have washers on there after the third rebuild & that at least gets it to hold torque. even when I backed out the bolts last night they were clearly still at the torque values. My worry is with a 33mm bar the stock end links aren't anywhere strong enough to take autocross corner loads which can be pretty extreme. The mustang throws it's weight around pretty hard on stock suspension. I'd rather have the rattle than snap a endlink in the middle of a run.
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Old 09-10-2013, 12:08 PM   #11
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So I saw another post on this on another forum. Obviously one option is that I somehow broke the right strut mount... that's where the sound is most localized. The other opinion is perhaps in manhandling around in the wheel well I knocked the fender liner loose. So I'll check both of the liners first. After that then I'll get drastic - anyway to really tell if the strut mount is broken? I've bounced on the door sill but it won't clunk sitting still. only moving.
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Old 09-10-2013, 03:03 PM   #12
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I think the strut mount issue is more of a "thunk" or "pop" rather than a rattle but who knows? I know for sure that it is common for the 05-09 stock mounts to give way over time and use, but I haven't heard much from the 11-13 folks about the same problem. Could be.
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Old 09-10-2013, 10:38 PM   #13
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Ok, partially solved it! I put my phone under the endlink in video camera mode and tried different bounces on the radiator support, sway bar & endlinks. What I discovered is that the adjustable links even torqued correctly weren't under any load at all. So i could palm the sway bar from the bottom of one end & both sides rattled. So what I did was loosened the jam nuts. Turned it a tad longer. Then while holding down on the sway bar shortened the link back and set the jam nuts. This is the partial part. A 2nd pair of hands would get it even more under load. Still its now a more definitive clunk instead of a resonant rattle. Much more liveable
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Old 09-19-2013, 01:58 PM   #14
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Rattle solved. I replaced the front endlinks with the SR kit & those are such a superior product to the other types on the market. This time everything got torqued with wheels on the ground to the exact number. Plus loctite. I will give props to american muscle & Whiteline for working with me generously to get the problem sorted.
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Old 09-19-2013, 02:05 PM   #15
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Good data point about Whiteline. They are a late comer and fairly new (as far as I know) to the S197 aftermarket. Nice to see they take care of their customers.
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Old 03-13-2014, 09:57 PM   #16
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Just to update this one for future searchers - I wound up buying SR's heavy duty endlinks which have remained rattle free. It is indeed necessary to have the car suspension loaded and torque the bolts to prevent slop which becomes a rattle. the problem with the other links is just not strong enough for rough roads around my area... the jam nuts kept backing out over railroad tracks & rough pavement. the SR's have only backed out once each in the sub freezing temps. after torquing them back in the cold no rattles.
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Old 03-13-2014, 09:57 PM
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