kjdad

Hi everyone. New to the site and have questions on running FS in autox with my 06 GT. I found a ton of good info by search, but if someone more seasoned know of a few good threads to read I would be greatful. Just a short background. Been running autox on and off since late 90s. Just something I did for fun, never really stuck with it. Now that my kids are older I want to run a full season next year and be competitve as possible. I need help with a good direction to take my 06 GT in FS. Not going to do much to the car other then tires and better seatbelts. Still haven't figured out if going with 255 width tires is worth it, or sticking to the 235s. I know the street tire class is changing next year in the SCCA.

What are your thought on 18" tire selection? I plan on focusing my driving, but know tires are always a good direction to start.

Are they any aftermarket belts that clip in without a cage, something to hold me in place better then the factory belts?

Thanks.

Jande063

This may or may not be helpful, but have you tried using the lock on the OEM belt by moving the seat back, jerking the belt to cause it to lock, then hold it while you move the seat forward. That holds me in place all right(on cloth seats, though if leather is a factor for you, this probably would not work), a cam lock on the lap belt might make it a bit better(again, for cloth).

Sam Strano

I assume you want to jump straight to F-Street rules, right?

The basics are still the same be it for F-stock, or F-street. Only differences are the tires and the fact you can go +/- 1" in wheel size (but there are some details on what width you can use legally, it's kind of a mess to be honest). Does your car have 18's on it? And were they an option on a 2006? I know they were a standalone on '07's, which means you can run 17x8's or 18x8.5 (and each of those +/-1"), but in the same width and offset range as the wheel you started with. In short you could run a 17x8.5, or a 19x8.5 too, if the offset falls within the legal range. Ironically they think that's easier. :/

Anyway, same basic setup applies. Good shocks, probably Koni Sport's with the allowed mods for some additional camber. And a change of sway bar (we'd do the rear with one of my hollow 25mm's). Then a matter of picking a rim/tire size, I can help there too.

I've got 4 National Championships in F-stock, also 4 in ProSolo, and an additional for the 2009 ProSolo Overall Championship. I've run 3 different S197's in the class myself, both 4.6's and 5.0's.

I can help from start to finish.

kjdad

I know the stock rules are changing next year but don't understand all the details. My 06 has the stock option 18X8.5 wheels. Looking for good autox tires to fit these wheels seems to be a challenge. Do you recommend a good wheel/tire combo? F-street might be the way to go to get a good tire that fits. I was going to look for another set of stock 18" on c-list, but might splurge more on a lighter set if I can figure out the size tires.

I have purchased stuff from you before...good service..

Thanks,

Dan

Sam Strano

Hey Dan-

You aren't alone, and there is some irony there because on of the reasons given was to make things easier (it's not).

There are good wheel options in 18x8.5 and I can help you there, as well as with the rest. In "street" you could up or down 1" from that 18" size, staying with a 9.5, but moving either way does you no good. Less 17" tires to pick from and all taller. 19's cost more and again are taller.

I know the rules, won't let you go wrong on them.

Sartolw

The seat belt trick does help. Learned that one from some of the guys that I run with.
Finished my first ESP autocross season and i'm ready to retire my stock rims and my crap tires. Stock 18" fan blades seem to push to much in the turns, plus crap tires havnt been helping. Tossing around the idea of 17x8's in the rear and 18x8's in the front with some around 245/40 - 255/40. started a new thread before i saw this one. The rims i have my eyes on are 19.8 lb front and 18.9 lb or so in the rear. Just have no knowledge on drags dr line of wheels.

Sam Strano

Why would you go 18 front 17 rear? Plus the 18's are 8.5, the 17's are 8's... and the way the rule works you find the stock wheel you want to run, and the width and offset must stay legal (basically the same) but you can go up or down 1".

What it looks like you want to do (and again I have no idea why) isn't they way you'd want to go about it. If you are hell-bent on that 18 front, 17 rear, get the wheels in 8.5 (legal because that's what 18's are to start with.

All that said. You're not in stock, sorry "street". Wheels are free. You can run 18x10.5's all around if you want so why limit yourself to 8" wide wheels?

Sartolw

lol . Talking to some local guys is what sparked the idea. 17" in the rear to increase acceleration and lower the rear when the back bits around the corners hoping to lift the weight off the front reducing the understeer. 18's in the front to give you a smaller side wall to reduce static tire roll on the corners. I would like to keep the 8.5 or larger just having a hard time finding a rim under 20 lbs and in my budget. I am open to all ideas to stop the understeer. Have been looking at your sway bars as well in the near future. Had my eyes on SVE drift wheels 18x9 front and 18x10 rear at 23lb as well but was told they still may be a little heavy.

Sam Strano

That's not how it works. One more myth in the world that 17's put power down that much better than 18's. It's much more about compound and general construction than sidewall height.

Sartolw

So a tires ability to grip will out measure the front rims spinning weight? and/or meeting in the middle as fare as front weight and tire grip / grip surface?