Control arms
#11
Norm,
Great replies.
My 2014 GT Track Pack car had horrific wheel hop in stock form. I changed to Koni Yellow, Steeda Boss 302 Springs and a Fays2 watts link and voila ...ZERO hop.
I had guessed that the severe rear end squat and front lift on hard acceleration combined with poor dampers was causing the car to bounce on the suspension.
Your explanation of behavior is excellent.
FYI. My car is on stock Track Pack LCA's and stock UCA so the fix was springs and dampers only for my car.
Tod
Great replies.
My 2014 GT Track Pack car had horrific wheel hop in stock form. I changed to Koni Yellow, Steeda Boss 302 Springs and a Fays2 watts link and voila ...ZERO hop.
I had guessed that the severe rear end squat and front lift on hard acceleration combined with poor dampers was causing the car to bounce on the suspension.
Your explanation of behavior is excellent.
FYI. My car is on stock Track Pack LCA's and stock UCA so the fix was springs and dampers only for my car.
Tod
#12
Norm,
Great replies.
My 2014 GT Track Pack car had horrific wheel hop in stock form. I changed to Koni Yellow, Steeda Boss 302 Springs and a Fays2 watts link and voila ...ZERO hop.
I had guessed that the severe rear end squat and front lift on hard acceleration combined with poor dampers was causing the car to bounce on the suspension.
Your explanation of behavior is excellent.
FYI. My car is on stock Track Pack LCA's and stock UCA so the fix was springs and dampers only for my car.
Tod
Great replies.
My 2014 GT Track Pack car had horrific wheel hop in stock form. I changed to Koni Yellow, Steeda Boss 302 Springs and a Fays2 watts link and voila ...ZERO hop.
I had guessed that the severe rear end squat and front lift on hard acceleration combined with poor dampers was causing the car to bounce on the suspension.
Your explanation of behavior is excellent.
FYI. My car is on stock Track Pack LCA's and stock UCA so the fix was springs and dampers only for my car.
Tod
Last edited by Troponin; 04-21-2014 at 08:53 PM.
#13
For a street performance car true high quality coil overs would be overkill when Koni makes such a superb product with a lifetime guarantee.
Take a look at the Koni sale prices going on right now.
#14
I did not go with coil overs. Mine are front struts and rear shocks as stock but Koni Yellow adjustables and Steeda Boss 302 springs. The stock dampers are not up to the task in my opinion, even for street. The Steeda Boss 302 springs would not be my recommendation for a street performance car as they are stiffer than needed.
For a street performance car true high quality coil overs would be overkill when Koni makes such a superb product with a lifetime guarantee.
Take a look at the Koni sale prices going on right now.
For a street performance car true high quality coil overs would be overkill when Koni makes such a superb product with a lifetime guarantee.
Take a look at the Koni sale prices going on right now.
These might be what I need to prevent so much *** drop on take off, but still allow some for a better mix.
#15
I have J&M extreme lower control arms that have one spherical joint and one poly joint, along with steeda sport springs and koni srt.t shocks and CHE relocation brackets. All of these together and I really like how the car drives. Axle hop is gone and everything feels a bit tighter. The springs and struts also make a big difference in brake dive.
Relocation brackets change the suspension geometry to help plant the rear axle more on hard acceleration, but may have some adverse effect on turning. If you look into these I recommend going with the strongest brand you can find.
Cheaper Relocation brackets can bend...(that is supposed to be aligned with the bracket on the axle)
Relocation brackets change the suspension geometry to help plant the rear axle more on hard acceleration, but may have some adverse effect on turning. If you look into these I recommend going with the strongest brand you can find.
Cheaper Relocation brackets can bend...(that is supposed to be aligned with the bracket on the axle)
#16
I have J&M extreme lower control arms that have one spherical joint and one poly joint, along with steeda sport springs and koni srt.t shocks and CHE relocation brackets. All of these together and I really like how the car drives. Axle hop is gone and everything feels a bit tighter. The springs and struts also make a big difference in brake dive.
Relocation brackets change the suspension geometry to help plant the rear axle more on hard acceleration, but may have some adverse effect on turning. If you look into these I recommend going with the strongest brand you can find.
Cheaper Relocation brackets can bend...(that is supposed to be aligned with the bracket on the axle)
Relocation brackets change the suspension geometry to help plant the rear axle more on hard acceleration, but may have some adverse effect on turning. If you look into these I recommend going with the strongest brand you can find.
Cheaper Relocation brackets can bend...(that is supposed to be aligned with the bracket on the axle)
http://forums.corral.net/forums/s-19...ca-owners.html
So i went with non adjustable and what i mentally guessed/assumed was the best design, which was the J&M extreme. I dont have relocation brackets which i hope isnt a problem.
#18
If you have your car lowered, i'd def recommend getting some relocation brackets. if not..then no.
I just ordered the same LCA's. Ive heard of some adjustable LCA's actually snapping :
http://forums.corral.net/forums/s-19...ca-owners.html
So i went with non adjustable and what i mentally guessed/assumed was the best design, which was the J&M extreme. I dont have relocation brackets which i hope isnt a problem.
http://forums.corral.net/forums/s-19...ca-owners.html
So i went with non adjustable and what i mentally guessed/assumed was the best design, which was the J&M extreme. I dont have relocation brackets which i hope isnt a problem.
#19
Yeah, I'd say the control arms are more for stability (in a straight line or in the corners), rather than traction. Although if the car wheel hops they'll improve traction by eliminating that. To me, sticky tires and upgraded control arms are the perfect match for improving grip in a straight line or in the corners.
#20
I completely agree with you that control arms are more for stability rather than for traction.You need to replace the control arm & suspension bushings to maintain the durability of your vehicle.Recently I replaced my Audi control arms and I feel the change in the drive after that.
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