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What all is needed with Lowering 14 GT

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Old 04-25-2014, 11:30 AM
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Xann27
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Default What all is needed with Lowering 14 GT

I got a set of Eibach Pro lowering springs a couple months ago, and didnt really have the time to put them on. A lot of shops wanted to charge $350-$500 just for the spring install. THEN another $75-100 for an alignment. back in the honda days, i remember getting charged $100-$150 for a lowering job. in these mustangs, the fronts are the only real challenge i see as you have to take apart quite a bit of the wheel and break assembly to get the strut/spring out. the rears look super easy. i was under the car while it was on a lift yesterday inspecting a possible exhaust leak from a weld that was done on my Xpipe, but it turns out that the sound of the exhaust going thru the pipes is making a hissing sound and no leaks are present... no black soot ANYWHERE under the car.

ANYWAYS. someone said there was a link to a youtube video on how to lower your car in a garage with basic tools, comon sense, and patience. (im sure im going to need a spring compressor).

Also, At this time I dont have a panhard bar, nor aftermarket struts. this car is my daily driver, no track use at all. so Im only going for looks really. how negatively will i be affected without a PHB and Struts? anyone else done this at home?

What can you guys help me with here? Thanks
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Old 04-25-2014, 09:50 PM
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UPRSharad
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You can do just the Eibach springs on the stock shocks and struts. I've done that before. But it handled way better when I upgraded the shocks and struts about a year later. Also, you don't NEED an adjustable panhard bar, but the rear end will be off center on those springs. I certainly recommend a good panhard bar like this one.
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Old 04-25-2014, 10:02 PM
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2011V6Nicole
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^+1 you dont need a an adjustable panhard bar, but when i lowered mine the rear was noticeably off centered before I fixed it. You should be fine with the stock shocks and struts, it will just be a stiffer ride.

Not sure about the gt but on my v6 the fronts were just as easy if not easier than the rear....I did it in a garage with only jackstands and some hand tools.....didnt have to use a spring compressor. I think all said and done including getting the rear centered it took me and a buddy 3 hours or so
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Old 04-26-2014, 06:55 PM
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Xann27
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off center? how do you mean my car wont be centered without an adjustable panhard bar? 0.o
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Old 04-26-2014, 07:43 PM
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CMcNam
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Originally Posted by Xann27
off center? how do you mean my car wont be centered without an adjustable panhard bar? 0.o
When you lower the rear the rear axle will be pushed to one side very slightly (depending on how much you lower it) because of the panhard bar. It's not bad and you may not even notice, especially if you don't plan on tracking the car. I will say without new shocks and struts the ride is pretty terrible and I didn't realize how bad it was handling with just springs until I installed new shocks and struts. It went from extremely harsh and unpredictable to a "slot" car after I added shocks and struts. If I were to do it again I'd do it all at the same time. I know a lot of people will claim huge improvements in handling with just the springs but I wonder how many of them have driven a car with new shocks and struts based on my experience...
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Old 04-26-2014, 08:33 PM
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Xann27
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now im considering just holding off until i can get a set of shocks/struts all the way around... ugh.
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Old 04-26-2014, 08:41 PM
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CMcNam
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Originally Posted by Xann27
now im considering just holding off until i can get a set of shocks/struts all the way around... ugh.
I would recommend a set of Koni Str.ts (orange). They're non-adjustable and would suit your needs perfectly! I think they're on sale right now.
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Old 04-27-2014, 05:11 PM
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l00kitzzlilcj
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+1 on the Koni "oranges". Just did my 06 GT with konis, springs, and panhard; totally different ride... it feels like im glued to the road. Much more confident making turns or quick maneuvers.

IMO, don't waste your time with just springs. Go all the way and install the struts/shocks & panhard with the springs. You wont have to feel the harsh ride on those stock ones, and more importantly you wont be using more time (or money if you go to a shop) to install them after you do the springs. Take into consideration how many miles are on them now also because they will blow out 2x faster after the drop. My car is like a once or twice a week driver and I even went all the way instead of just springs. To me, it made no sense to take out the struts just to put them back in for a 1.5" drop, and then have to do that all over again to put those springs on new struts like 2 months later. Koni's are on sale right now. I found my set for $305 I believe.

As for installation, I did it in my driveway. My impact gun made it much easier. The front struts come out, compress the spring, and get the mount off the top. Took my new struts and spring, compressed the spring, and reinstalled the mount on top and popped them back in the car. About 45-60 minutes per side while taking my time. For the rear, be careful because the rear end needs to be dropped down a bit to get the springs out and you don't want to damage anything back there. I pried mine out with a crowbar once I knew I didn't need to drop it any further. Then the shocks come out with really easily with no rear-end dropping. I had to move my shaker subs in the trunk to reach the upper nut on the right side.

Then came the panhard. Like two bolts underneath.
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Old 04-27-2014, 09:33 PM
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Andy13186
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you could go with coilovers with adjustable ride height and stiffness. If i had to redo it, i may have gone with that type of setup.
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Old 04-29-2014, 03:54 AM
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Xann27
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I went ahead and did just the springs, as i dont have another 400+ for struts and shocks. now that i've done it, i know how easy it really is to do the fronts. its like, 4 main bolts, and boom. out with the struts. having a quality spring compressor would have been nice tho. i got a cheap one, and should have sprung for the nicer one. (get it? sprung?)

i did the fronts in my garage, but for the rears... i had to call a favor and use a shop lift. i didnt have 3 jack stands to be able to get the car in the air, and also have one for lowering the rear axle so i could get the stock springs out. with a lift, and doing it for the first time, it was a 45 min job for the rears. if i had air tools, and had to do it again, lol 15 mins for both sides. its not that hard, just worried about working on a $40,000 car.

all said and done, i have noticed the entire rear axle sits off to the driver side about 1/2 inch. due to the stock panhard bar being connected to the axle and frame, so next on my list will be a cheap adjustable panhard.

be careful if you do this yourself, that the swaybar links in the front are a bitch to get back in and they have to damn near be torqued because mine didnt get tightened all the way and the car clunked really bad going over any bumps. (didnt notice until i had the car on the lift and could access it better.) what ive learned, is using a lift for ANY work under a car is SOOOOOO much easier.

all in all, im happy with the way the car looks. and with a few adjustments here in the future, im sure i'll be happy overall.

Ford DOES have a TSB (tech service bulletin) about creaky front end suspension, so if you have a newer mustang, IT WILL BE COVERED under warranty. im getting mine done tomorrow at a local ford service center. so with that, im happy. and done.
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