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I read the Ford TSB for the upper strut mount replacement to fix a "loose lumber" clunking sound. At the end of the TSB, it states that a front end alignment isn't needed. I have never changed a strut that didn't require an alignment after. Question is, if I don't lower the car and put on a new Koni orange strut with a GT500 mount, will I need to get the car aligned?
Also, if I choose to leave the stock strut there, will the LCA drop enough to change the mount without removing the strut from the spindle? That would require the removal of strut nut with the jack under LCA method.
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I wouldn't swap in new struts and NOT do an alignment.
No idea about your second question, although if you do take the struts out entirely it would be a very good time to upgrade the strut to knuckle bolts to the newer fine thread ones (they're stronger and install to a slightly higher torque - 166 ft-lbs vs 148 IIRC - for greater clamping force),
'08 GT/5MT (mine)
'10 Subaru Legacy 2.5GT/6MT (hers)
'01 Maxima 20AE/5MT (spare, my occasional winter driver)
'95 626/V6/5MT (still in the family but not at this address)
Agreed, don't change the mounts without doing an alignment.
Don't see why you don't want to remove the strut? easier and safer that way. Not to mention the sway bar end links would have to be removed off the strut to get enough travel and you would need a real skinny spring compressor to get into the wheel well.
It's an extra 10 minutes per side to remove/replace the strut completely, no big deal.
If the bolts aren't loosened on the strut, then that part doesn't change where it currently is. The method I was talking about is not using a spring compressor, but putting a jack under the LCA, raising it slightly, removing the center nut, and then slowly lowering the strut. Yes the end link would have to be unbolted, but that would not impact alignment. At that point I wondered if the LCA would drop enough to reach up in the tower and replace the mount and then just reverse the order. That would eliminate the need for an alignment. Right now everything is aligned perfect and I just don't want it screwed up.
Like the above poster said, it's an extra 10 minutes to do the job the right way. I'm not sure if there's enough travel in the LCA to do the job the way you're talking about. But even if there is, I imagine it would be a PIA to try and line up the bolts, and compress the spring by jacking the LCA up.
06 GT. Steeda Hood, Bumper, F&R sway bars, strut tower brace, struts/shocks, sport springs, HD strut mounts, UDP's, delete plates. Hawk Brake pads. Power Slot Rotors. Goodridge Braided brake Lines. BMR combo UCA, combo/adj LCA's, LCA relocation brackets, adj panhard bar, panhard bar brace. Pro 5.0 shifter. K&N CAI. Magnaflow Magnapacks cat back. FRPP 4.10's. BAMACHIPS SCT 93 tune.
Wow, watch this from 1:10-1:40, I wouldn't try it this way. I would think there is a chance of the strut getting away. If the strut was still bolted into place I could easily see loosening the top nut and then lowering. This is a video from BBK too.
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