New SS Brake Lines for Front
#12
#13
Yes if you have a buddy you can save the $40 on the speed bleeders.
#14
Speed bleeders are awesome. I have them. One man brake bleeding job.
#15
So is the Motive Power Bleeder (motiveproducts.com). I think with the Mustang's M/C reservoir having a screen of some kind that this tool would need to be used "dry", but all you'd have to do once the system is pressurized is crack the bleeders only one time each until it's only fresh-looking fluid that runs out. You do have to keep an eye on fluid level as usual.
Cars without the screen can use it "wet" - either the 5th gen Camaros all do or the guy I watched using this thing at a track day last year DIY-modified his car's reservoir to work this way.
Below is is what brake fluid can and will end up looking like when you use the brakes hard enough to put some real heat into it. On average, there's a little over one track day plus a couple of weeks street driving on this fluid - good DOT4 stuff intended for autocross and track days, and it is from front and rear brake bleedings. The fluid that first comes out the front calipers is much darker . . . and that's with track pads which are somewhat better at insulating the calipers from directly conducted brake heat than street pads.
Norm
Cars without the screen can use it "wet" - either the 5th gen Camaros all do or the guy I watched using this thing at a track day last year DIY-modified his car's reservoir to work this way.
Below is is what brake fluid can and will end up looking like when you use the brakes hard enough to put some real heat into it. On average, there's a little over one track day plus a couple of weeks street driving on this fluid - good DOT4 stuff intended for autocross and track days, and it is from front and rear brake bleedings. The fluid that first comes out the front calipers is much darker . . . and that's with track pads which are somewhat better at insulating the calipers from directly conducted brake heat than street pads.
Norm
#17
#19
I replaced my lines with russels. Also flushed the system with dot-4 and bleed the system out by myself with 2 liter soda bottle and some clear tubing.
Replaced all 4 lines first. Then sucked out old fluid out of reservoir. Topped it off with new fluid. Started with RR attached the clear tubing, ran it into the soda bottle with the old fluid, then cracked the bleeder. Pump the pedal until the fluid starts running clear. Making sure to keep the reservoir topped off with fresh fluid. By the time the new fluid starts coming out usually all the air is out of the line. The clear tubing will let you see bubbles coming out of the line. The hose needs to be running above the bleeder so air doesn't get sucked back into the line. Continue pumping until no air coming from the bleeder. Once the line is clear of bubbles close the bleeder move to next line.
I used this method took around 2 hours to replace lines flush fluid and bleed the lines. Worked perfectly and all it cost was the new fluid and about 5 bucks for the clear tubing from lowes.
Replaced all 4 lines first. Then sucked out old fluid out of reservoir. Topped it off with new fluid. Started with RR attached the clear tubing, ran it into the soda bottle with the old fluid, then cracked the bleeder. Pump the pedal until the fluid starts running clear. Making sure to keep the reservoir topped off with fresh fluid. By the time the new fluid starts coming out usually all the air is out of the line. The clear tubing will let you see bubbles coming out of the line. The hose needs to be running above the bleeder so air doesn't get sucked back into the line. Continue pumping until no air coming from the bleeder. Once the line is clear of bubbles close the bleeder move to next line.
I used this method took around 2 hours to replace lines flush fluid and bleed the lines. Worked perfectly and all it cost was the new fluid and about 5 bucks for the clear tubing from lowes.
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