Help me pick my suspension upgrades
#1
Help me pick my suspension upgrades
So I have a 2014 GT and want to lower it. I've been browsing several forums and have a few questions I'd like clear up. Car is %100 daily driven and will never see a track.
I think I'm sold on the Eibach Sportlines as i really like how they level the car out. Everyone says to upgrade shocks/struts at the same time. I'm looking at Koni STRs or would the Eibach Pro shocks be more suited for the Sportlines?
I'm also planning on upgrading to GT500 upper strut mounts. Does this mean i need to buy 05-09 dampers and springs, are the rear springs any different on 11-14s?
One thing I'm concerned about is getting the alignment within spec due to the aggressive drop of the sportlines. The last thing i want is uneven wear on my brand new tires. Should i pick up some camber bolts too, or do I need them? Should I take the car to a dealership for an alignment or a dedicated shop?
I'm assuming I'll need an adjustable panhard bar too. Can anyone give me some good suggestions?
Thanks
I think I'm sold on the Eibach Sportlines as i really like how they level the car out. Everyone says to upgrade shocks/struts at the same time. I'm looking at Koni STRs or would the Eibach Pro shocks be more suited for the Sportlines?
I'm also planning on upgrading to GT500 upper strut mounts. Does this mean i need to buy 05-09 dampers and springs, are the rear springs any different on 11-14s?
One thing I'm concerned about is getting the alignment within spec due to the aggressive drop of the sportlines. The last thing i want is uneven wear on my brand new tires. Should i pick up some camber bolts too, or do I need them? Should I take the car to a dealership for an alignment or a dedicated shop?
I'm assuming I'll need an adjustable panhard bar too. Can anyone give me some good suggestions?
Thanks
#2
The Eibach springs are certainly at the top of my list if you're #1 requirement is to have a nice comfortable ride. Eibach springs is what I pick for all my customers who use their car as a daily driver, the other springs out there can be a bit bouncy or uncomfortable. You can use those springs with the factory shocks if you like, but they will wear out those shocks a bit quicker than if you were to just leave the factory springs in.
If you're looking to upgrade the shocks at the same time, it would make for a good time to get it all installed at once of course. The STR.T's are a good overall shock too, that would be a great set up.
What was the reason to upgrade to the GT500 mounts? I know it's pretty common for some guys to do that, but I don't consider it an upgrade in my mind, I consider it a waste if you're asking me. I would just keep the factory top hats like I have on my KW V3's I had on my car, and my newest suspension just came with camber plates so I'm all set there.
You likely wont need a camber bolt, the car wont be lowered too aggressively where it will be completely out of wack. Even on my airbag suspension lowering the car all the way down to the ground the camber isn't far out of this world. I would highly suggest getting a panhard bar at least because once you lower this car, the rear axle will shift over, but the camber up front wont really shift it so far out of wack as long as you have a good shop install it for you.
Feel free to send me an email if you have any questions as it's better to reach me there for a quick response - Jurrian@modbargains.com
If you're looking to upgrade the shocks at the same time, it would make for a good time to get it all installed at once of course. The STR.T's are a good overall shock too, that would be a great set up.
What was the reason to upgrade to the GT500 mounts? I know it's pretty common for some guys to do that, but I don't consider it an upgrade in my mind, I consider it a waste if you're asking me. I would just keep the factory top hats like I have on my KW V3's I had on my car, and my newest suspension just came with camber plates so I'm all set there.
You likely wont need a camber bolt, the car wont be lowered too aggressively where it will be completely out of wack. Even on my airbag suspension lowering the car all the way down to the ground the camber isn't far out of this world. I would highly suggest getting a panhard bar at least because once you lower this car, the rear axle will shift over, but the camber up front wont really shift it so far out of wack as long as you have a good shop install it for you.
Feel free to send me an email if you have any questions as it's better to reach me there for a quick response - Jurrian@modbargains.com
#3
You'll definitely need an adjustable panhard bar like this one.
You can rotate your factory strut mounts 180° to bring the camber back to spec. But honestly, a little bit of extra negative camber in the front helps cornering grip. You do need to zero out your toe angle after the drop though.
You can rotate your factory strut mounts 180° to bring the camber back to spec. But honestly, a little bit of extra negative camber in the front helps cornering grip. You do need to zero out your toe angle after the drop though.
#4
I've just read in a few places that the stock strut mounts are kind of cheap and can make noises and often fall apart while dissembling.
Thanks for the heads up about turning the strut mounts around and for the phb link.
I appreciate the replies guys
Thanks for the heads up about turning the strut mounts around and for the phb link.
I appreciate the replies guys
#5
This kit is getting good marks on another forum.
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=559
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=559
#6
You'll definitely need an adjustable panhard bar like this one.
You can rotate your factory strut mounts 180° to bring the camber back to spec. But honestly, a little bit of extra negative camber in the front helps cornering grip. You do need to zero out your toe angle after the drop though.
You can rotate your factory strut mounts 180° to bring the camber back to spec. But honestly, a little bit of extra negative camber in the front helps cornering grip. You do need to zero out your toe angle after the drop though.
You can try it but you will probably change your mind.
#7
For a dd I would not recommend any negative camber greater than factory. I've tried it and the detriment to driving on the street far out weighs any minor advantages in cornering....especially since street roads are not normally even and/or flat. With extra negative camber you will end up constantly adjusting/tugging at the wheel to keep the car tracking straight. It will follow ruts in the road more and will also wear out the inner part of the tire faster.
You can try it but you will probably change your mind.
You can try it but you will probably change your mind.
Do you recommend turning the strut mounts around 180 to help prevent negative camber before heading to the alignment shop?
#9
For a dd I would not recommend any negative camber greater than factory. I've tried it and the detriment to driving on the street far out weighs any minor advantages in cornering....especially since street roads are not normally even and/or flat. With extra negative camber you will end up constantly adjusting/tugging at the wheel to keep the car tracking straight. It will follow ruts in the road more and will also wear out the inner part of the tire faster.
You can try it but you will probably change your mind.
You can try it but you will probably change your mind.
Cobalts and Mustangs have dramatically different suspension setups. The steering on your Mustang will not jerk around when you hit bumps.
#10
I find this hard to believe. I also used to DD my stang and went through 2 sets of tires running -1.5 and the wear on the inside of the tires, even with religious rotating front to back, was extremely apparent. I even backed down to -1.2 and you can still tell the tires wear faster on the inside.