14 GT with 20x11 clearance question
06-05-2015, 09:21 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 167
14 GT with 20x11 clearance question
Easy question, 1000000 answers on the forums lol.
BMR springs 1.5in lowered, strange/viking struts/shocks in case it mattered, adj panhard and LCA relo brackets. Ok so im on stock 245/45-19 all seasons from the factory, the 20x11 look so good but my concerns are the flushness with the wheelwell fender, and in case i hit a pothole or bottom out, i dont think my suspension tucks, so would the 20x11 with 315/35-20 shred the tire when it hits the fender lip or will it tuck or does offset REALLY matter most pics show it basically flush if you held a straightedge it would be flat against fender/tire/wheel...whats the real story guys? any input at all is much appreciated! i can offer additional info if needed
BMR springs 1.5in lowered, strange/viking struts/shocks in case it mattered, adj panhard and LCA relo brackets. Ok so im on stock 245/45-19 all seasons from the factory, the 20x11 look so good but my concerns are the flushness with the wheelwell fender, and in case i hit a pothole or bottom out, i dont think my suspension tucks, so would the 20x11 with 315/35-20 shred the tire when it hits the fender lip or will it tuck or does offset REALLY matter most pics show it basically flush if you held a straightedge it would be flat against fender/tire/wheel...whats the real story guys? any input at all is much appreciated! i can offer additional info if needed
06-05-2015, 11:09 PM
#2
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 167
14 GT with 20x11 clearance question
Easy question, 1000000 answers on the forums lol.
BMR springs 1.5in lowered, strange/viking struts/shocks in case it mattered, adj panhard and LCA relo brackets. Ok so im on stock 245/45-19 all seasons from the factory, the 20x11 look so good but my concerns are the flushness with the wheelwell fender, and in case i hit a pothole or bottom out, i dont think my suspension tucks, so would the 20x11 with 315/35-20 shred the tire when it hits the fender lip or will it tuck or does offset REALLY matter most pics show it basically flush if you held a straightedge it would be flat against fender/tire/wheel...whats the real story guys? any input at all is much appreciated! i can offer additional info if needed
BMR springs 1.5in lowered, strange/viking struts/shocks in case it mattered, adj panhard and LCA relo brackets. Ok so im on stock 245/45-19 all seasons from the factory, the 20x11 look so good but my concerns are the flushness with the wheelwell fender, and in case i hit a pothole or bottom out, i dont think my suspension tucks, so would the 20x11 with 315/35-20 shred the tire when it hits the fender lip or will it tuck or does offset REALLY matter most pics show it basically flush if you held a straightedge it would be flat against fender/tire/wheel...whats the real story guys? any input at all is much appreciated! i can offer additional info if needed
06-07-2015, 11:46 AM
#6
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
I'm not quite sure what you're asking, or even if this question is only for the rear wheels/tires.
For the rear axle there are at least three different modes of wheel motion relative to the bodywork:
Almost straight up and down, as when both rear wheels hit the identical bump at the same time (the PHB forces a little side to side motion as well)..
Pure cornering roll with no bumps, which isn't as simple as the body rolling about some fixed central point (due to bushing compliance, the axle migrates toward the inside and closer to the back side of the wheel well on the outer wheel side).
One-wheel bump, this one does tend to move the bumped wheel inward (away from the fender but closer to the inside).
The wider you go with wheels and their tires, the more critical picking the right offset becomes. At 11" wide, appearance becomes much more a consequence of what will fit without rubbing than defining what offsets you might want to choose from for any other reason. I have 18x11's and 285/35's all around for track day use . . . so I've kind of been there. But 18's and unlowered isn't going to find all of the clearance issues associated with 20's and lowering.
Norm
For the rear axle there are at least three different modes of wheel motion relative to the bodywork:
Almost straight up and down, as when both rear wheels hit the identical bump at the same time (the PHB forces a little side to side motion as well)..
Pure cornering roll with no bumps, which isn't as simple as the body rolling about some fixed central point (due to bushing compliance, the axle migrates toward the inside and closer to the back side of the wheel well on the outer wheel side).
One-wheel bump, this one does tend to move the bumped wheel inward (away from the fender but closer to the inside).
The wider you go with wheels and their tires, the more critical picking the right offset becomes. At 11" wide, appearance becomes much more a consequence of what will fit without rubbing than defining what offsets you might want to choose from for any other reason. I have 18x11's and 285/35's all around for track day use . . . so I've kind of been there. But 18's and unlowered isn't going to find all of the clearance issues associated with 20's and lowering.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 06-08-2015 at 07:22 AM.
06-09-2015, 06:31 PM
#8
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 167
Thats pretty much what i was wondering, is if i the tire was flush with the outside of the fender or at least a little bit outisde maybe 1/4in, and i hit a pothole that for some reason causes that wheel to hit the bump stop or bottom out, that it will actually tuck inward toward shock rather than directly straight up and hitting the fender which would of course shred the tire or ruin my fender...?