ChromeDome

Hey Guys, I was wondering if anyone knew of any Camber plates that can get to about -2.5 degrees. I have this coworker who had a set of M-18000-C on his GT500 only about 15K miles on them so I was going to grab them for cheap. So anything I need to look for when looking at these plates?

Thanks

flash_xx

Good question, I think I asked something similar a while ago and got no responses. I'm going to fabricate my own caster/camber plates since all the ones I've seen online don't seem to go past 1.x degrees.

Eric62

Add a little negative into the strut to knuckle mounting holes by filing it out. Un-bolt the strut to knuckle on each side. Measure the width of the lower bolt hole. Remember that number. Take a rat-tail file or die grinder to the lower bolt hole and elongate each side of the bracket hole to the OUTboard side by about 2 mm (0.080 inch) OR do the exact same to the INboard side of the upper hole. Make both sides of the bracket the same. Make both sides of the car the same. When reinstalling the strut bracket bolts, before tightening, but a jack under the hub or brake rotor and give it just a little lift to pre-load the assembly to the negative camber direction. Tighten the bolts to spec. This will add about 3/4 of a degree to the factory settings and allow any caster-camber plate to give you the 2.5 degrees you want. And it will be consistent side-to-side.

middieman147

Every car is different, but I had to drop mine nearly 3" to get that much camber out of the front. I had Vorshlag camber plates on Koni yellows with Steeda ultralites, and could only get -1.8 with the plates maxed out. I switched to ST XTA coilovers, lowered the car 5/8"(or something like that) more than the ultralites, and barely eeked -2.5 with the plates maxed out and the steering knuckles jammed all the way inward at the top.

flash_xx

A bit late but I got the maximum motorsports camber/caster plates and got -2.5 degrees without maxing them out. We maxed one out and got -3.15 degrees camber, so I'm happy, Left it at 2.5 and with that and the Ford Racing Sway bars the car corners like a kart now, no more plowing the nose through corners. I'm using the middle hole on the adjustable front bar for now until I see how it behaves at the track, but for now it feels like a smaller car. Dialed in a bit of toe out as well. Can't wait to get back to the track and see how much lower I can make my lap times.

Eric62

flash_xx, You can help the car turn a bit easier by adding the lower control arm (LCA) relocation brackets - available from many sources including Ford - and dropping the rear lower mounting point. They sel these as traction aids, which they are, but they also change how the rear axle "steers" into a corner. As the car rolls, the LCA steers the axle just a bit as the car rolls. The outside arm pushes the axle back as it rolls farther than the outside does so the axle actually steers into the radius of the turn resisting your efforts to turn the car. Level out the LCA's and that axle steering is decreased and the car will want to turn-in more sharply reducing the dependency to understeer. Sketch it on a piece of paper to convince yourself but it does work on a track day car. Helps your traction out of the corner, too.

Norm Peterson

A proper sketch of rear axle steer geometry is a line drawn through two points (where the LCAs intersect in 3-D being one, the rear geometric roll center being the other) - this being the axle's own "roll axis", separate from any notion of the car having a roll axis running between its geo roll centers.

If this axle roll axis line runs downhill going from back to front, the axle roll steer is understeerish in nature (the outboard end of the axle is pulled forward and the inboard end pushed back, steering into the curve and negating a small fraction of what you're doing up front with the steering wheel). Stable, and where the OE geometry is set. If it is made to run uphill toward the front the result is "loose axle steer" (outboard end moves back, inboard end goes ahead, rear steering now makes the tail run a little wide and "adds" to your steering). More nimble for, say, autocross, but inherently less stable because you don't have direct steering control over it.

LCA inclination can provide hints, but that is not an axle steer solution all by itself.


Norm

flash_xx

I have the relocation brackets. Got the whiteline ones about two years ago. Honestly I think they made the understeer worse, but with the camber plates and anti roll bars the effect is negated. I get to keep the traction advantage for drag racing and the car can turn again. Once I do the square tire setup it should be even better. The GT500 front control arms helped a bit too.