Upgrading Shocks/Struts. Camber plate vs bolt
08-12-2016, 11:42 AM
#1
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: CA
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Upgrading Shocks/Struts. Camber plate vs bolt
A while ago I lowered my car with eibach sportline springs.
I now need a panhard bar and new shocks/struts since the ride is really bouncy now, dangerously bouncy.
Since I am going to be pulling out the old struts, should I also install some caster/camber plates? Or would a camber bolts be enough?
I think my camber is a little negative, maybe 1-1.5 from factory. If I remember correctly, one side was in spec, but the other was not. Wish I saved my alignment sheet.
I now need a panhard bar and new shocks/struts since the ride is really bouncy now, dangerously bouncy.
Since I am going to be pulling out the old struts, should I also install some caster/camber plates? Or would a camber bolts be enough?
I think my camber is a little negative, maybe 1-1.5 from factory. If I remember correctly, one side was in spec, but the other was not. Wish I saved my alignment sheet.
08-13-2016, 07:57 AM
#2
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Use either the camber plate method or, very specifically, Ford's own camber bolt approach (which requires elongating holes in the struts' "ears").
Better still might be Steeda's HD strut mounts, which feature camber adjustability and have at least in the past been more durable for lowered cars than the OE strut mounts (which sometimes come apart when you remove them anyway). Give Sam Strano at Stranoparts a call because there's more than one part number for these.
Cambers that are a little negative is fine. Ford has typically preferred -0.75°, and allowed all the way up to -1.5°. And although Ford won't ever endorse it, cambers even further negative are still do-able without big downsides if you take corners enough harder than the average sedan driver often enough.
Norm
Better still might be Steeda's HD strut mounts, which feature camber adjustability and have at least in the past been more durable for lowered cars than the OE strut mounts (which sometimes come apart when you remove them anyway). Give Sam Strano at Stranoparts a call because there's more than one part number for these.
Cambers that are a little negative is fine. Ford has typically preferred -0.75°, and allowed all the way up to -1.5°. And although Ford won't ever endorse it, cambers even further negative are still do-able without big downsides if you take corners enough harder than the average sedan driver often enough.
Norm
08-13-2016, 01:19 PM
#3
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: CA
Posts: 66
Use either the camber plate method or, very specifically, Ford's own camber bolt approach (which requires elongating holes in the struts' "ears").
Better still might be Steeda's HD strut mounts, which feature camber adjustability and have at least in the past been more durable for lowered cars than the OE strut mounts (which sometimes come apart when you remove them anyway). Give Sam Strano at Stranoparts a call because there's more than one part number for these.
Cambers that are a little negative is fine. Ford has typically preferred -0.75°, and allowed all the way up to -1.5°. And although Ford won't ever endorse it, cambers even further negative are still do-able without big downsides if you take corners enough harder than the average sedan driver often enough.
Norm
Better still might be Steeda's HD strut mounts, which feature camber adjustability and have at least in the past been more durable for lowered cars than the OE strut mounts (which sometimes come apart when you remove them anyway). Give Sam Strano at Stranoparts a call because there's more than one part number for these.
Cambers that are a little negative is fine. Ford has typically preferred -0.75°, and allowed all the way up to -1.5°. And although Ford won't ever endorse it, cambers even further negative are still do-able without big downsides if you take corners enough harder than the average sedan driver often enough.
Norm
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