F1Fan

Hi mofoT

O.K., got it.

No, I prefer the Eibach Pro-Kit springs over the H&R Race Springs because they are not as radical a drop. Be aware the the number they show for the amount the car is lowered are only estimates. All cars are not made the same and some have differing equipment. All of these factors conspire to make the numbers shown for the amount of lowering only a close guess. My own '05 GT dropped more than the Eibach specs said it would. Mine went 1.5F/1.7R on an '05 GT premium coupe, 5-speed with everything but the skipper 1000.

As far as the parts I think can give most people the best bang for the buck and still get excellent handling, grip and ride? I 'd go with the basics as I've outlined before. Sport Springs of you choice (I prefer the Eiback Pro-Kit springs), Tokico D-Spec struts and dampers, Steeda adjustable Panhard bar, Steeda Panhard bar brace and a Steeda G-Trac brace. Like I've said before this suspension is more car than 98% of all drivers can possibly drive well enough to know they need more mods.

The Eibach Pro-Kit springs won't drag through driveways except those with very steep or very high crowns. I just installed this core suspension setup on a friend's car today. He was VERY happy and totally amazed that this was the same car he had driven into my garage. He loves it!

W1ldcat

I have a Vert and want to start a handling package. I thought I should do the box sub frame and then save for the rest. Am I putting the horse before the carrige? I also want to change the springs and do the whole stage 1 that F1 listed. Can I do at least the struts and dampers first and springs as I get money. I'm impatient and want to start something...
Thanks F1Fan. I just read the thread from the begining and have learned enough not to just lower. I do want to make my car so I can go to Gingerman raceway and be able to learn how to road race. I do believe me car being an auto will hinder me a lot, but my left leg makes clutch work an impossibilty.
WC

christangSC

hey guys, ive read just about all the posts in this thread and none you seem to be running any coilovers. why is that? the reason i ask is b/c i was planning on getting the HandR coilovers to improve my handaling (spelling?) but i wanted to get some opinions before i spend a good $1000 or so on them. i like the idea of coilovers b/c i could ajust them to my likeing, plus im planning on changeing my wheels in the near future so i figured i could ajust them to look flush with the coilovers as oposed to having just springs. Any and all help would be appericated. thanks in advance.

F1Fan

Hi SC,

To answer your question, mainly because many folks here are early adapters and there were no coilover suspension parts out in the marketplace until very recently. There are also the problems of cost, the fact that a TRUE coilover suspension including a coilover for the rear axle would be even more expensive and create severe structural problems for the S197 chassis unless the chassis was heavily re-enforced in the areas of the upper shock mount AND the axle side mount. This would make for a very expensive change in suspension configuration with NO practical performance advantage over the existing conventional MacP' style strut, rear spring and damper configuration. There is also the problem of competition classes for SCCA sanctioned driving events most of which require you to run a same as stock suspension configuration or get bumped up to a prepared class where you would have NO chance to be competetive.

The BEST suspension setup is one that suits your driving uses. For a DD (daily driver), the most bang for the buck is a conventional Tokico D-Spec strut/damper setup with the sport springs of your choice and as needed an adjustable Panhard bar and the matching Panhard bar support brace. You can get the whole basic set up delivered to your door about $950USD. There is a huge difference in this setup when comparing it to a "coilover suspension" which will likely cost a bit more. First there are virtually no coilover suspension kits available with adjustable dampening and the few that are available are two to two and a half times the cost of the basic suspension parts I mentioned and will not include an adjustable Panhard Bar and highly recomended Panhard bar support brace. In terms of cornering performance unless you spend 2.5-3 times as much for a double adjustable "coilover" setup (not a true coilover suspension, the rear dampers and springs are in the stock location), and adjustable Panhard bar and H.D. Panhard support brace you cannot even match the cornering performance of the most basic MacP' and sport spring setup above. That means you have an additional $1,000-$1,500 to spend on other cool and important stuff, like beer or wheels.

But if performance is not your thing and you like the bling buy an inexpensive "coilover" suspension and have at it. Just realize that when your car's handling is scary and your car's ride is killing you and making your Skipper 1000 have a heart attack that there is a good reason most people stick with a "conventional" suspension setup.


Cheers

gcstang

I am new here as i recently just purchased an 05 mustang gt. and i have 20 in wheels. I was wondering how much i can lower it without rubbing. What setup should I run? I want the best and most complete setup. I have read some of the other posts and want to know if they hold true with my setup.

F1Fan

Hi gcstang,

It depends on your wheels and tires. With a properly designed wheel and tire combination such as the stock 17"x8" wheels and stock 235/5X17" tires you can drop the car to the frame rails and not rub a thing. Of course your actual ride would suck but you could do it. If you had 10" wide, 20" hoops with say a 285/30X20 Pilot Sport A/S tire mounted you are going to be about the same tire height as the stock wheel/tire combo. So with an optimum wheel offset and perfect axle centering using an adjustable Panhard bar you could potentially lower the car using a spring like an Eibach Pro-Kit Sport Spring set and still fit O.K. if not actually all inside the wheel wells. But you cannot go much lower without rubbing even with an adjustable Panhard bar and perfect axle centering. To get the car really low and still use a wheel and tire that fills the wheel wells you need at least a 27"-27.6" tall tire and can not use a wheel wider than 9" even with perfect offset and perfect axle centering using an adjustable Panhard bar.

Also be aware that the lower you go the worse off your steering and suspension geometry will get. This means you will have to do more suspension work to restore the geometry to get back the best handling and steering feel after lowering

So, like I said, it depends.


Cheers

traffic142

Steeda Ultra's and BMR adj. panhard bar. No problems with the alignment either. Dialed right in.

I have also added the BMR LCA's with lowering brackets, Strut Tower Brace and A arm support brace (their version of the Steeda G Trac)

I have also put on 18" rims

18x9 front with Nitto 555 255-45-18

18x10 rear with Nitto 555 285-40-18

No rub problems.

Runs tight and really want some 4.10's out back.

nbk13nw

So F1....

I am running the Eibach Sportlines, FFRP struts / dampers (I know D-Specs needed!)... Foose 20x10 rear with Falken 285/30/20's and 20.8.5 front with 255/35/20's. Used the Spec EZ camber bolts from Specialty Products and the alignment came to within specs. No rub issues or bottoming out issues... yet. I had planned on an adjsutable panhard and brace (Looking at BMR) and G-Trac brace to tie the front end together. I also want to go with some upper and lower control arms and a relocation bracket as well. Are you still pushing the Steeda control arms as opposed to say the BMR stuff? Can you see anything I have forgotten or maybe you have another suggestion.

I don't drag, road or street the car. The roads are mostly good with some nice speed bumps on occassion. Weather is mostly mild as well in this area, not much snow to speak of either.

Any assistance or advice would great! And thanks in advance!

Newbreedgt05

Hey nbk13nw!

Do you have any more pictures of your car cause I've been thinking about running a similar setup of wheels and tires with eibach springs?
Thanks!

nbk13nw