timothyrw

have since lowered my car. see sig and post:

https://mustangforums.com/m_4833261/tm.htm

wasvette

When I do the spring install I will be installing new struts in the front. So, I shouldn't need to compress the springs and remove the stock struts if I have:

[ul][*]New struts[*]New GT500 upper strut mounts[*]Rubber isolator pictured below[/ul]
IS THERE ANYTHING I'M MISSING THAT WOULD NORMALLY BE SCAVENGED FROM THE ORIGINAL SET UP AND REUSED? IF SO, I NEED TO GET PRIOR TO INSTALL. THANKS!

I'm assuming I can get this part only from the dealer.




[IMG]local://upfiles/55848/ED4D3659806B4CF7A1783B1F94510222.jpg[/IMG]

F1Fan

Hi wasvette,

What you have to reuse depends on the strut/damper kit and sport spring set you buy. Some sport springs come with isolators installed and some suggest that you reuse the isolators from the stock springs. Some struts come withthe correct bumpstops and some require that you reuse the stock bumpstops and strut rod covers, it all depends on what you buy. I suggest that you get the struts andsprings in you hands and read the instruction sheets andmake a list of the parts they tell you you need to reuse and just go to the localFord dealer and order them. The GT500 strut bearings are a good option but the Steeda adjustable strut bearings are a better if more expensive way to go. In addition to never failing again like the stock Ford strut bearings do you will getsome camber adjustment and more precision steering and feel.

HTH!

wasvette

Thanks F1Fan - My parts are a used Eibach Pro-Kit so no instructions and Steeda Non-adjustable pro action struts.
So, based on those parts, do you know which parts I'll need from the dealer? They don't even show any isolators, etc. in their exploded view parts schematics...Also, I know the Steeda pieces are awesome but I just can't do $300 for that portion of the job...
Thanks again.
Kevin

Stoenr

Wow, I read this thread again, great read, again.
Wheres F1 been!

I just want to add and comment since my early post, wow that was a long time ago. Over 2 years, lol.

Well still on the Roush rear springs only, but slowly have upgraded.
Since then
ADJ. LCA's
ADJ. panhard.
Tires
255/45/18
285/40/18


Now on the way to me, or on my shelf waiting install is
UCA,
LCA relocation brackets.
Eibach pro kit
D-specs
Steeda Bumpsteer.


Funny all that after re-reading early post.

cheapsk8r

After reading all of the posts on this site, and checking the balance of my bank account. I decided to go with a rear sway bar, adjustable control arms, panhard bar and brace, and bushing kit. This should improve the stock suspension until the bank account can afford the next phase, struts/dampers, springs, camber bolts and LCA relocation brackets. Does this sound like the correct approach??

F1Fan

Hi cheapsk8r,

Well it depends on what it is you want to achive. The most common issues areride, body controland handling which are best addressed with a set of adjustable dampers and appropriate sport springs to start with. The other items you are considering arebest saved for later fine tuning to address specific issues.

HTH!

cheapsk8r

Thanks F1!
I am planning on springs and dampers next, but I want to address all of the requirments for lowering the car ahead of time. I am looking for better rear traction for the drag strip, along with better control for the canyon roads. I have a limited wheelbarrow full of money this time, so I figured why not prep the car for the next phase of upgrades rather than throw the springs and dampers on first then have to play catch up with the rest of the suspension. I will have to sacrafice a couple of one time use bolts by not doing everything at once, but I figure that is minimal. I hope I am thinking this through correctly.

F1Fan

Hi cheapsk8r,

Why do you want to do it backward? Inlooking at your list the only items on your initial list of mods that deals withthe side affects of lowering an S197 chassisis the Panhard bar. A Panhard bar does not even directly address any actual suspensiongeometry issues created by lowering the chassis. An adjustable Panhard bar simply providesadjustment for lateral axle positioning within the chassisand if the Panhard bar is light and stiff with poly bushings or rod ends can improve rear axle location and driver feel quite a bit. The drive's confidence in what the chassis is doing allows him/her to drive the car better.

You may or may not need a rear axle anti-roll bar, in fact you are much more likely towant or need a front anti-roll bar. Inaddition to being largerto reduce body rolla front anti-roll barusually has the ability to be adjustedallowing you totune your handling balance which the vast majority of rear anti-roll bars cannot do.Going alongin the orderyou arethinking of making your changesyou will have already purchased and installed an anti-roll bar which you may or may not need or want and no way to change the way it behaves andyou will have done it on thewrong end of the car.

Why would you install adjustable lower control arms on a car that is not lowered and does not have a problem withwheel hop? Adjustable LCA's aregood for only a limited number of things. You can use them to correct side to side wheelbase lengtherrors due to say poor installationof your LCA relocation brackets, ora chassisthat is not quite right. If youwant to improve rear axle control to reduce wheel hopagood UCA is in fact a more effective than changing the LCA's. You can also use adjustable LCA's to set pinion angle butpinion angle is better addressed by an adjustable UCA just as wheel hop problems are. Save your money and install GT500 LCA's and instead use a Steeda adjustable Comp/StreetUCA and HD adjustable UCA mount. This is not an inexpensive piece but it is the ONLY UCAthat can do what it does! Do some homework on this part, it is also the only way to significantly adjust your IC in a favorable direction without resorting tosetting your LCA's in the LCA relocation brackets at angles that can cause severe cause handling issues at speed.

A good adjustable Panhard bar and matching HD brace areon mylist of core suspension that is to be done first. This is a no brainer if you want to lower the car and improve cornering. Like so many other thingsit took mostpeople a long time to figure this outwhile I was sayingit 3 years ago right after I laid under my new carfor 3-4 hours measuring, diagramingand thinking aboutmy new car's suspension system design. An adjustable Panhard bar and a matching heavy duty Panhard bar chassis brace is NOT just forrecentering the axle in the chassis, it is a handling and chassis reliability upgrade. Anybody who tells you differently has not done their homework and has no idea about the long term durability of highliy loaded chassis mounting points. Saleen is now abelieverafter doing a voluntary recall of all 500Saleen PJ 302 carsand updating every Saleen Watt's link kit they sold. It seems there was an issuewith frame and chassis cracks along with damaged chassis fasteners where the Watt's link mounting brackets are attached using the stockPanhard bar chassisfasteners. Do the math, theSaleen PJ 302 cars were not in production until December of 2006and produced as2007 vehicles. Therewere very few of these cars initially availableso very fewareeven a year old yet as most of the initial buyers were collectors not drivers.

Bushing kit? Don't install any more poly bushings in your suspension than you have to unless you are willing toput up with a car that is a rattle trap with horrible ride and noise issues. Thefactory chose to use rubber bushings for a reason, NVH. Oh sure it will feel more responsive with abunch of hard poly bushings installed but your wife or girlfriend will hate it and you will tooyou as you are creeping along in traffic on the daily slog tothe salt mines. If you have to install things that are going to degrade your car's ride and NVH every time you install one make them count! Chassis side UCA bushing preferably a 3-piece multi-durometer bushing like Steeda uses in their adjustable Comp/Street UCA/UCA mounting system, Panhard bar and anti-roll bar bushings are all that I rcommend for a daily driven street car. Andfor some unknown reason feel compelled,LCA's if you don't go with the much quieter just as effective and much cheaper GT500 LCA's from your local FRPP or Ford dealership.

So to answer your question if you don't see my point from the above paragraphs; no doing it backward is not a good idea. I and everybody else who cooks up these suggested suspension"kits" have very good reasons to suggest thatdampers, springs PB/PB brace are the first suspension items you need to address.Save your money and be patient, the parts will still be there when you need them and have the money saved up.

HTH!

Stoenr

F1Fan costs me more money everytime I read one of his post[:@]