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Looks like I could advise ditching the STB at least, the area we live in is at the base of the alps, very twisty mountain roads and when we go on road trips we are constantly owned by the euro guys in the BMW, Mercs, Audi's ect...We have more power most of the time but are not able to put it to ground. Is it wrong that I want to use his car as a test bed for my suspension....Anyway, strait line performance is important, but the twisties is where we need it. Tires and wheels are stock now and I'm open to suggestions. All that being said, I also value your thoughts on the 7/8" rear swaybar with endlinks/poly bushings and stock front swaybar combo in combination with a watts.
Willie
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19" Y rated tires = instant handling and a little firmer ride, These cars will surprise you how well they handle if you just put sports car tires on them, I've still got some body roll but hoping the steeda sports will take care of that
19" wheels/tires are primarily appearance-driven. Just get wider 18's/17's in a lower profile than stock.
I know the 2010 Track Pack has 19's. BUT . . .don't you think that the fact that the Challengers and Camaros come with 20's has something to do with that? Competition for sales does not necessarily mean that all of the changes represent forward progress in the hardcore performance sense. FWIW, the Track-Pack performance numbers can be matched with 18's or 17's, assuming that everything is chosen at least as carefully.
19" wheels/tires are primarily appearance-driven. Just get wider 18's/17's in a lower profile than stock.
I know the 2010 Track Pack has 19's. BUT . . .don't you think that the fact that the Challengers and Camaros come with 20's has something to do with that? Competition for sales does not necessarily mean that all of the changes represent forward progress in the hardcore performance sense. FWIW, the Track-Pack performance numbers can be matched with 18's or 17's, assuming that everything is chosen at least as carefully.
Norm
Norm
I was perusing the Porsche web site and see that the GT2, GT3 and Turbo all now come with 19" wheels. Does this mean that they too have succumbed to the "bling" factor
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White 08 GT Roush S/C 445 HP/KDW2 285/40/18 tires/18 x 9.5 Steeda Ultralite wheels/ Steeda Competition springs/D Specs/FAYS2 Watt's Link/LCA/Adj UCA & Mnt/Upper strut mnts/GT500 Brake Kit/GT500 Front LCA/X5 Ball Jnt/Bmp Str + more
If the brakes will fit inside 18's, there's already a mild argument for saying so. If they will fit inside 18's without significantly reducing the rate of heat rejection to airflow through and out of the rotors, the argument for saying so gains strength.
Adjustable shocks adjust the amount of damping (think either "stiffness" or resistance to movement) that the shocks provide, not the car's ride height.
Set stiff, they might reduce car movement enough to keep your car from crashing down into a few of the obstacles that you'd hit if they were set soft. But they won't protect a side-exit exhaust with 3" of ground clearance against 3.25" tall speed bumps no matter how slowly you drive over them.
Norm
you seem to be a knowledgeable guy, so a question for you please ? 1.5" drop springs rear only. Adj track bar, where is a good place to start when installing the panhard with the springs ? 1/2" shorter ? 1/4" ? I know I'll have to adjust on the car, just want a place relatively close to get started, thanks.
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her car; SMR #0951 06 V6 Pony, manual, mycolor, Shaker 1000, BMR lowering springs, adj track bar, center fog grill, 10" stripes, side window louvers, GT wheels. Pypes Violator cat back. Tri-bar grill emblem. GT500 splitter, rocker stripe delete, FIA/Shelby stripes, smoked front signals. FMC hood scoop.
My car, BMC #12073 black on black leather 05 GT. Manual, Shaker 1000, Shelby FIA stripes, NSP stainless axlebacks, Pro 5.0 shifter, Xenon window scoops.
Geometrically, the difference amounts to only about 1/32" shorter. 40.25" long with the chassis side 1.5" higher than the axle side with the car empty is 40.22" measured horizontally.
From there you still get to adjust for how well the axle is/was centered to begin with. There may be some optical exaggeration going on with respect to an axle that's not completely centered to begin with - as the car gets lower and the visual gap to the tire gets smaller, lateral shift probably becomes more apparent.
Ride height changes at the front would not have enough effect on PHB chassis side height (and from there, axle centering) to matter at all. It could be calculated but you'd never be able to reliably measure it with any reasonable level of measuring equipment.
Geometrically, the difference amounts to only about 1/32" shorter. 40.25" long with the chassis side 1.5" higher than the axle side with the car empty is 40.22" measured horizontally.
From there you still get to adjust for how well the axle is/was centered to begin with. There may be some optical exaggeration going on with respect to an axle that's not completely centered to begin with - as the car gets lower and the visual gap to the tire gets smaller, lateral shift probably becomes more apparent.
Ride height changes at the front would not have enough effect on PHB chassis side height (and from there, axle centering) to matter at all. It could be calculated but you'd never be able to reliably measure it with any reasonable level of measuring equipment.
Norm
thanks for the info. So where would you suggest I measure from ? Inside of rim to a frame rail ?
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her car; SMR #0951 06 V6 Pony, manual, mycolor, Shaker 1000, BMR lowering springs, adj track bar, center fog grill, 10" stripes, side window louvers, GT wheels. Pypes Violator cat back. Tri-bar grill emblem. GT500 splitter, rocker stripe delete, FIA/Shelby stripes, smoked front signals. FMC hood scoop.
My car, BMC #12073 black on black leather 05 GT. Manual, Shaker 1000, Shelby FIA stripes, NSP stainless axlebacks, Pro 5.0 shifter, Xenon window scoops.
post script; new BMR rear springs, perfect amount of drop. Edelbrock adj track bar. After I bought and installed zerk firrings it slid right in. Loosened the lock nuts and turned the adjusting nut by hand until I got it centered. Very easy. Appreciate all your help guys !
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her car; SMR #0951 06 V6 Pony, manual, mycolor, Shaker 1000, BMR lowering springs, adj track bar, center fog grill, 10" stripes, side window louvers, GT wheels. Pypes Violator cat back. Tri-bar grill emblem. GT500 splitter, rocker stripe delete, FIA/Shelby stripes, smoked front signals. FMC hood scoop.
My car, BMC #12073 black on black leather 05 GT. Manual, Shaker 1000, Shelby FIA stripes, NSP stainless axlebacks, Pro 5.0 shifter, Xenon window scoops.
Little bit of a bump here.
This is what I'm looking at getting, a Saleen suspension package from Brenspeed. Any recommendations or thoughts on this or another setup? http://www.brenspeed.com/10-1300-a11503.html
and then this to finish off the backend, because the above setup does not come with a rear swaybar. Would there be a problem later on by doing these 2 different brands? Would there be a discrepancy with the quality of one vs another? http://www.steeda.com/products/rear_swaybar_s197.php
Later I may get a tower brace under the hood, but right now this is what I'm getting with my next paycheck.
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Thanks for the input
....Anyway, strait line performance is important, but the twisties is where we need it. Tires and wheels are stock now and I'm open to suggestions. All that being said, I also value your thoughts on the 7/8" rear swaybar with endlinks/poly bushings and stock front swaybar combo in combination with a watts.
