Lowering your 05/06 Mustang GT
02-19-2012, 10:29 AM
#491
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location:
Posts: 173
Lowering a GT vert
Hi mofoT
O.K., got it.
No, I prefer the Eibach Pro-Kit springs over the H&R Race Springs because they are not as radical a drop. Be aware the the number they show for the amount the car is lowered are only estimates. All cars are not made the same and some have differing equipment. All of these factors conspire to make the numbers shown for the amount of lowering only a close guess. My own '05 GT dropped more than the Eibach specs said it would. Mine went 1.5F/1.7R on an '05 GT premium coupe, 5-speed with everything but the skipper 1000.
As far as the parts I think can give most people the best bang for the buck and still get excellent handling, grip and ride? I 'd go with the basics as I've outlined before. Sport Springs of you choice (I prefer the Eiback Pro-Kit springs), Tokico D-Spec struts and dampers, Steeda adjustable Panhard bar, Steeda Panhard bar brace and a Steeda G-Trac brace. Like I've said before this suspension is more car than 98% of all drivers can possibly drive well enough to know they need more mods.
The Eibach Pro-Kit springs won't drag through driveways except those with very steep or very high crowns. I just installed this core suspension setup on a friend's car today. He was VERY happy and totally amazed that this was the same car he had driven into my garage. He loves it!
O.K., got it.
No, I prefer the Eibach Pro-Kit springs over the H&R Race Springs because they are not as radical a drop. Be aware the the number they show for the amount the car is lowered are only estimates. All cars are not made the same and some have differing equipment. All of these factors conspire to make the numbers shown for the amount of lowering only a close guess. My own '05 GT dropped more than the Eibach specs said it would. Mine went 1.5F/1.7R on an '05 GT premium coupe, 5-speed with everything but the skipper 1000.
As far as the parts I think can give most people the best bang for the buck and still get excellent handling, grip and ride? I 'd go with the basics as I've outlined before. Sport Springs of you choice (I prefer the Eiback Pro-Kit springs), Tokico D-Spec struts and dampers, Steeda adjustable Panhard bar, Steeda Panhard bar brace and a Steeda G-Trac brace. Like I've said before this suspension is more car than 98% of all drivers can possibly drive well enough to know they need more mods.
The Eibach Pro-Kit springs won't drag through driveways except those with very steep or very high crowns. I just installed this core suspension setup on a friend's car today. He was VERY happy and totally amazed that this was the same car he had driven into my garage. He loves it!
reading more...I think I've concluded that I need the following: Eiback Pro-Kit springs (got those $200 bucks), Tokico D-Spec struts and dampers, Steeda adjustable Panhard bar, Steeda Panhard bar brace and a Steeda G-Trac brace. How much more $$ do I need to spend to get the rest and what would be a reasonable charge for installation as I can't do this by myself, basically cause I don't have the right tools...or time.
Thanks!
02-19-2012, 12:26 PM
#492
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location:
Posts: 173
Lowering a GT vert
Well, before I got a chance to bug him, I took a fresh run at it and with 2 more sets of jacks I got them in...
The procedure for a vert works out to:
1. jack front and back up and put them on stands (you want to keep the rear bumper as low as you can, so jack up the front as well - I just made it level with the rear to give me room to work)
- I put the front jack stands under the "K-member"
- I put the first set of rears at the Ford spec'd jacking point in front of the rear tires
- I used a third set of screw jacks to unload the rear (described in next step)
2. support the rear of the car with a third set of stands (best if they are very adjustable - either hydrolic or screw)
- I placed them on the frame rails that attach to the bumper - you are only supporting 100-200 lbs here (to keep the rear from flexing down at the doors) - I based that on the fact that I could unload the rear-most stands with a good firm bench press from underneath.
3. remove the frame braces that go under the rear (see photo above)
4. remove tires from rear
5. remove brake calipers (this was not mentioned in other posts - but my break lines did not stretch far enough to unload the rear springs - wow glad I noticed that before I ripped them off the car!)
6. remove lower shocks at the mount on the rear
7. remove rear sway bar at the frame (leave attached to the rear)
8. drop rear which has been supported at the differential all this time.
9. apply "foot wrench" to springs to pop them out while pulling down on the rear - even hanging free it needs a little help with the stock springs...
10. new springs go in easy
11. put it all back together - be careful if you lower the rear first, your jack will likely now get trapped...
Comments:
Need to drive it a bit, the front tires were hanging down all day and are clearly not where they usually are (front tires get pulled in when you lower the jack, so I will need to roll it out of the garage to get them to relax down to normal position....)
That said, it feels like the fronts are now a little high with only having installed rear Rousch springs... (coups seemed to even out just right with just the rears).
The vert has a heavy rear owing to all the bracing (and the shaker 1K weighs a ton too...)
I am not going to even think about fixing that yet as the SC on the way is pretty heavy from what I read (Is the saleen SC really 200lbs!!! yikes!), so I am guessing my front will get a little gravitational drop - I will wait to see how it looks with that added weight before I decide to replace springs in the front...
On the bright side, it will never be this hard again as shocks don't require you unload the rear... So, if I find myself needed some new shocks with the new geometry, I don't have to use the elaborate jacking method...
Well that was some good exercise and a fine way to burn a saturday afternoon...
The procedure for a vert works out to:
1. jack front and back up and put them on stands (you want to keep the rear bumper as low as you can, so jack up the front as well - I just made it level with the rear to give me room to work)
- I put the front jack stands under the "K-member"
- I put the first set of rears at the Ford spec'd jacking point in front of the rear tires
- I used a third set of screw jacks to unload the rear (described in next step)
2. support the rear of the car with a third set of stands (best if they are very adjustable - either hydrolic or screw)
- I placed them on the frame rails that attach to the bumper - you are only supporting 100-200 lbs here (to keep the rear from flexing down at the doors) - I based that on the fact that I could unload the rear-most stands with a good firm bench press from underneath.
3. remove the frame braces that go under the rear (see photo above)
4. remove tires from rear
5. remove brake calipers (this was not mentioned in other posts - but my break lines did not stretch far enough to unload the rear springs - wow glad I noticed that before I ripped them off the car!)
6. remove lower shocks at the mount on the rear
7. remove rear sway bar at the frame (leave attached to the rear)
8. drop rear which has been supported at the differential all this time.
9. apply "foot wrench" to springs to pop them out while pulling down on the rear - even hanging free it needs a little help with the stock springs...
10. new springs go in easy
11. put it all back together - be careful if you lower the rear first, your jack will likely now get trapped...
Comments:
Need to drive it a bit, the front tires were hanging down all day and are clearly not where they usually are (front tires get pulled in when you lower the jack, so I will need to roll it out of the garage to get them to relax down to normal position....)
That said, it feels like the fronts are now a little high with only having installed rear Rousch springs... (coups seemed to even out just right with just the rears).
The vert has a heavy rear owing to all the bracing (and the shaker 1K weighs a ton too...)
I am not going to even think about fixing that yet as the SC on the way is pretty heavy from what I read (Is the saleen SC really 200lbs!!! yikes!), so I am guessing my front will get a little gravitational drop - I will wait to see how it looks with that added weight before I decide to replace springs in the front...
On the bright side, it will never be this hard again as shocks don't require you unload the rear... So, if I find myself needed some new shocks with the new geometry, I don't have to use the elaborate jacking method...
Well that was some good exercise and a fine way to burn a saturday afternoon...
Did you need to align (use panhard bar) or anything?
Reason I ask is that I have a vert with the shaker 1000 and I just want the rear lowered a bit to level out the car for looks. Trying to read thru this entire posting but its sooo much info I'm not sure if I really want to do this anymore just to get a better look!
02-19-2012, 01:56 PM
#493
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location:
Posts: 173
Hey, what about this for just lowering the back 1 inch...ShockWave Air Suspension
VariShock ShockWave is a unique product line that combines VariShock adjustable-valve shocks with air-bag springs to enable suspension performance tuning with the flexibility of adjustable ride height, when combined with a compressor and control system. Choose from single-adjustable QuickSet 1 or double-adjustable QuickSet 2 models in a variety of travel lengths and bag styles to cover front- and rear-suspension applications.
VariShock ShockWave is a unique product line that combines VariShock adjustable-valve shocks with air-bag springs to enable suspension performance tuning with the flexibility of adjustable ride height, when combined with a compressor and control system. Choose from single-adjustable QuickSet 1 or double-adjustable QuickSet 2 models in a variety of travel lengths and bag styles to cover front- and rear-suspension applications.
02-19-2012, 04:03 PM
#495
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location:
Posts: 173
Whew! Just finished the entire thread! Wow a lot to digest! I think with the way I drive I'm not going to do anything with lowering the suspension. I believe I'm going to spend the money better struts and dampeners when I need them. But first, I need new tires! Spring is here it seems in northern Illinois!
03-20-2012, 07:57 PM
#497
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Texas
Posts: 120
well i've done a lot of reading through this thread and there's a ton of info. i'm wanting to lower my mustang this summer, so i have a few questions. i'm looking at getting the eibach sportline kit and the J&M camber plates. will i need anything else for this install? also what time frame am i looking at for install? i'm not a suspension expert by any means but i've done a couple of lifts on trucks so i know a small amount. thanks for the help!
04-22-2012, 02:06 PM
#498
2011 GT. Swapped all of the springs for Boss 302 OEM springs. about 7/8" drop on the front, 0 on the rear. It firmed the ride up quite a bit, nose dive is less and the whole car handles bumps better. It helped with some of the "floating" during hard high speed braking but I need better shocks before that will go away.
06-24-2012, 01:00 AM
#499
Recenly lowered the Pony...been running this setup for about 4 weeks now and love how tight it handles and feels
FRPP K Springs (1in front/1.5in rear)
FRPP Damper/strut kit
SVT/GT500 Strut Mounts
FRPP Jounce Kit
Electric Assist Steering always set on "SPORT"
Car rides like its on rails!!
Amazing difference!
FRPP K Springs (1in front/1.5in rear)
FRPP Damper/strut kit
SVT/GT500 Strut Mounts
FRPP Jounce Kit
Electric Assist Steering always set on "SPORT"
Car rides like its on rails!!
Amazing difference!
08-09-2012, 03:23 PM
#500
Hi Fellas,
I need a lil advice.
IŽve the FRPP springs and strut from the convertible handling pack in my cellar.
As additional parts IŽll buy:
Adjustable panhard bar
Steeda C-Trac K-menber brace
Steeda HD strut mounts
FRPP sway bar kit for GT convertible
The car allready has J&M extreme lca and an strut tower brace installed, did I need an adjustable UCA also?
If so IŽll go with the Steeda UCA
Car stands on oem 18" Bullit rims with oem tires.
Thanks for your adVice.
Joe
I need a lil advice.
IŽve the FRPP springs and strut from the convertible handling pack in my cellar.
As additional parts IŽll buy:
Adjustable panhard bar
Steeda C-Trac K-menber brace
Steeda HD strut mounts
FRPP sway bar kit for GT convertible
The car allready has J&M extreme lca and an strut tower brace installed, did I need an adjustable UCA also?
If so IŽll go with the Steeda UCA
Car stands on oem 18" Bullit rims with oem tires.
Thanks for your adVice.
Joe