2013 Shelby weight loss diet?
07-06-2012, 07:33 AM
#11
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Detroit Area
Posts: 894
No doubt for straight line over all weight loss everywhere is great. For cornering and road courses, being closest to 50/50 is the best. A 3700 lb car with 52/48 weight ratio is going to corner more efficiently than a 3600 lb car with a 57/43 weight ratio.
Also add a Watts Link and an X brace(BossLS) in rear, combined with the weight loss up front makes a huge difference with the Mustangs. It would certainly eat up any ZL1 since they are close already. Erik
Also add a Watts Link and an X brace(BossLS) in rear, combined with the weight loss up front makes a huge difference with the Mustangs. It would certainly eat up any ZL1 since they are close already. Erik
12-10-2012, 04:38 PM
#12
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: MO
Posts: 63
The driveshaft may be carbon fiber but its still really heavy... People are shedding 8-9 lbs by switching to an aluminum 1 piece, and 12-15 lbs with a good aftermarket driveshaft, but pricey... You say you dont want to do suspension, but there is up to 300 lbs to be shed with suspension upgrades(280+ in the front 30+ in the rear but that is drastic). Carbon fiber transmission tunnel -75lbs. Some nice lightweight rotors 5-10lbs per corner(unsprung weight). Idk about the tubular k-member, you may be able to drop 30 or so lbs but you WILL FEEL every bump.
12-18-2012, 09:35 PM
#14
2010 Blue Ball Award Recipient
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Eskimo Village, Indiana *No Igloo*
Posts: 7,907
Just my opinion...
You spent 60K + on a car that you likely will not be professionally racing. Just enjoy it the way it came, or make small changes. No sense in tearing apart a car of that price for a few hundred pounds maximum when you can build a car that will abuse it in any specialized event for THOUSANDS less.
You spent 60K + on a car that you likely will not be professionally racing. Just enjoy it the way it came, or make small changes. No sense in tearing apart a car of that price for a few hundred pounds maximum when you can build a car that will abuse it in any specialized event for THOUSANDS less.
12-20-2012, 06:30 AM
#15
S197 Section Modder-ator
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Orlando FL
Posts: 13,373
Your not focusing on removing weight from the front...... do not remove weight from rear.
Odessa battery re-loocated to rear. 38 lbs removed from front, 19 added to rear-good
Mid tube headers remove 14 lbs
Eventually a light weight tubular K-member and a arms. 35lbs
lighter alum flywheel eventually. 15 lbs
Total so far 102lbs off the front, 19lbs added to rear.
At 3852 a stock 57%/43% 2196 front 1656 rear
New weight 2094 front 1675 rear 55.5% front 44.5% rear
Get rid of another 100 lbs off the front, and you'll be a little below 52%/48% ratio. Erik
Odessa battery re-loocated to rear. 38 lbs removed from front, 19 added to rear-good
Mid tube headers remove 14 lbs
Eventually a light weight tubular K-member and a arms. 35lbs
lighter alum flywheel eventually. 15 lbs
Total so far 102lbs off the front, 19lbs added to rear.
At 3852 a stock 57%/43% 2196 front 1656 rear
New weight 2094 front 1675 rear 55.5% front 44.5% rear
Get rid of another 100 lbs off the front, and you'll be a little below 52%/48% ratio. Erik
Although like it's been said, if you're never gonna race it, I wouldn't worry about the car's weight...
As for wheels, you could run the FIKSE that were found on the FR500C (they're 18s).
They're light but expensive (about $1200 a piece) but they have the same design as your wheels now only unpainted...
01-09-2013, 07:52 AM
#17
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Colorado
Posts: 2,652
Just my opinion...
You spent 60K + on a car that you likely will not be professionally racing. Just enjoy it the way it came, or make small changes. No sense in tearing apart a car of that price for a few hundred pounds maximum when you can build a car that will abuse it in any specialized event for THOUSANDS less.
You spent 60K + on a car that you likely will not be professionally racing. Just enjoy it the way it came, or make small changes. No sense in tearing apart a car of that price for a few hundred pounds maximum when you can build a car that will abuse it in any specialized event for THOUSANDS less.
Then leave your Shelby alone. It's already like Mary Poppins. Practically perfect in every way. Although I must admit, Julie Andrews was slightly higher in bone factor in the Sound of Music than as Poppins. But I'd still bone your car. Heck - Im going to go bone my GT500 right now!
01-28-2013, 03:12 AM
#18
Lots of really good input. I appreciate all the advice. As for getting another car and modding it for less... Well I already have the Shelby and I love it but its in my nature to tinker.
I'm definitely going to do the battery relocation.
I like the options above, however I don't want to mess with the flywheel or headers. tubular k-member and a-arms sound good. Any other recommendations like this?
Thank you!
I'm definitely going to do the battery relocation.
Thank you!
01-29-2013, 12:04 PM
#20
I hear that a lot, "leave it alone." It's great advice given that the car really is great as is, but I just want to tinker... Tinker in a way that doesn't ruin the car or it's usefulness as a daily driver.
Weight distribution is one of those things that has a pretty big impact on feel. I like feeling a lighter, nimblier front end. As awesome as this car is, any car can be made better.
I decided to pass on replacing the wheels since I LOVE the wheels (just wish the rear was wider), even though replacing front wheels with lighter wheels is pretty huge.
Weight distribution is one of those things that has a pretty big impact on feel. I like feeling a lighter, nimblier front end. As awesome as this car is, any car can be made better.
I decided to pass on replacing the wheels since I LOVE the wheels (just wish the rear was wider), even though replacing front wheels with lighter wheels is pretty huge.