yurizx6r

Hey guys,

I was wondering if anybody has installed a MM panhard bar. What I would really like to know is two things? 1. Do you get a lot of noise inside the car/ does it make it less DD friendly? 2. For street driving in 1st and 2nd gear, does it make a big difference to make the car launch straight?


My issue is I have "too much" power and I cannot adequately put it to the ground without fishtailing the rear end in 1st gear, and even when I roll into 2nd gear it feels like the rear end is going to start going to side to side at any second which scares me because I don't want to end up on youtube. I cannot go to a wider tire past 255/40R17's because when I painted my car 3 years ago I had to put a lot of bondo on the rear fenders, and I forgot to roll them. I'm planning on going from the 555's to the 555 G2s, but I don't think that will solve me issue (no drag radials).

Suspension: MM rear lowers, MM subframe connectors, Eibach sway bars, MM/Bilstein coil overs, MM front control arms.

88 orangepeel notch

I forgot what your at for power level, but there comes a point where no matter what you do, traction becomes an issue with street tires. It's called "FUN" lol

I'm no genius when it comes to suspension and handling, but I thought a panhard bar helps put power down when cornering. I'm not sure...

I'd Google for info....

mongolchuck

I would replace your upper rear control arms too. A good set of control arms can really help a fox behave itself. Also do the floor/control arm reinforcement while you're at it. If that doesn't give you what your looking for then maybe consider the panhard. It's best to replace all the pressed metal junk suspension parts before adding all new systems.
And again, these chassis underpinned Fairmonts and granadas and were designed 40 years ago so they definitely have their limits under even extensive modification.

proeagles

All the panhard bar does is locate the axle and keep it from moving side to side. There is no noise issue, traction issue, etc. You buy an adjustable panhard bar to correct the center line of the axle in relation to the center of the car when you lower or raise the suspension.

yurizx6r

My #1 goal is to keep it straight if the tires spin. I don't care if the spin, just don't fishtail or over steer on me. I've seen too many stangs on medians to not take that seriously. Without a dyno sheet, I would say it would be feasible to put myself in the "360-400 crank hp" rating, but let's be generous without sounding like a tool and say "400 crank hp" for laughs. It's not a crazy amount of hp, but it's respectable enough. The MM rear lowers really helped it stay straight until I put the 331 stroker in, but now even with all my other suspension mods it will fishtail on me once the tires break loose. 1st gear like always is useless, but what makes me nervous is even when I roll into 2nd, it feels like the rear end could break loose at any moment. That's what scares me, and I have 3.08 gears!!!! At first I was going to put some 275's on there and go from the Nitto 555's to the new G2's, but I have too much bondo on my rear fenders, and I have not rolled them yet, so I don't want to chance it. At minimum I'm going to upgrade to the G2's, but in a 255 so I don't have any fitment issues or break the bondo. So I was thinking do tires and the panhard bar to get what I'm after.

proeagles

Nothing is going to stop your car from fish tailing short of a locker rear end which spins both tires at the same time but then you can't drive it on the street. Traction or lack there of is a fact of life and you have to learn to deal with it through steering inputs and throttle application. You've pretty much done all the things to make the car transfer weight and take the wiggle out of the bushings to keep the car going in a straight line. All the Tools you see on YouTube can't drive. They get way behind in the steering and throttle and just keep it floored until they run into something because they ran out of talent the first time the car did a tank slapper and decided to stay in it.

88 orangepeel notch

I've personally never been in a car that stayed straight while spinning both back tires. The rearend kicks out alittle on everything. The secret is to know when to let off lol.

I'll keep watching this thread out of curiosity. But I think your just stuck with a little countersteering when the rear looses traction.

yurizx6r

It is true that I need a little more experience learning how to correct it when the rear end loses control, but there's no place to really practice that where I live. It's a pretty heavily populated area. I know first gear will always be useless unless I put on drag radials or slicks, but I would like second gear to feel more stable and not like it's going to give out on me. Probably the better tires alone should fix that, but just as an added bonus I thought the panhard bar would be a good addition. Are you saying that it's not worth it to put it on there?

mongolchuck

If the axle itself is stable and under control in the chassis then you shouldn't need a panhard rod. The panhard will keep the axle from "walking" laterally, which your aftermarket control arms should be doing a good job of already. I think you're on the right track looking at more tire. Mustangs have always been woefully narrow tired, especially when compared to our bowtie brethren.

88 orangepeel notch

+1 ^^^

Yep, better tires and a lighter foot.