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oh $hit your right. That never even came to mind, didnt look close enough. So what do you guys think of the Holley 670? And what would be the best intake?
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F**K THAT FUEL INJECTION S**
88' GT - GT40P's, Comp 986 vavle springs, Comp xe276hr cam, Comp Magnum 1.7 roller rockers, Comp Pushrods, Edelbrock 289 Performer 4bbl intake, Holley 650, BBK Longtubes, BBK shorty o/r H-Pipe, Dumped flowmasters, Ford 9mm wires, Crane PS91 coil, MSD 6A, Ford Racing 4.10 gears, Ford Racing King Cobra clutch, Hurst shifter, Holley Blue Fuel pump, jegs 12 gallon pro-street fuel cell, Holley Regulator, blood sweat and tears
How hard will this be to remove the computer harness. Is it difficult to seperate it from the chassis harness? I have pretty much everything else removed as far as the motor goes, acessories all that. So now Im at the harness part
__________________
F**K THAT FUEL INJECTION S**
88' GT - GT40P's, Comp 986 vavle springs, Comp xe276hr cam, Comp Magnum 1.7 roller rockers, Comp Pushrods, Edelbrock 289 Performer 4bbl intake, Holley 650, BBK Longtubes, BBK shorty o/r H-Pipe, Dumped flowmasters, Ford 9mm wires, Crane PS91 coil, MSD 6A, Ford Racing 4.10 gears, Ford Racing King Cobra clutch, Hurst shifter, Holley Blue Fuel pump, jegs 12 gallon pro-street fuel cell, Holley Regulator, blood sweat and tears
Underneath the brake booster there's 2 round connectors, a grey one and a black one. That's where the computer harness meets the chassis harness, disconnect them and pull the main harness out, getting the computer connector through the hole in the firewall can be a bit tricky but just work it and it will eventually come out.
As far as the stock gauges, your connections will be made underneath the booster at the 2 connectors I mentioned above. To get the stock tach to work, on the grey connector, tap into the dark green wire with the yellow trace. On the black connector harness, tap into the red wire with the white trace to get your water temp gauge to work and on the same black harness, tap into the white wire with the red trace to get your oil pressure gauge to work. The stock fuel gauge and volt gauges will still work.
Make sense?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cch
bahaha 'magine there was more side bulge then Rosie O'donnel in spandex.
Lets say for the tach, by tap into the wire you mean just splice the two together from both sides of the connector?
No, splice your wire going to the negative side of the coil or the tach out on your ignition/distributor or whatever your setup is to the wire going into the connector underneath the booster. For my car, I just snipped the wire a couple inches before the connector and soldered in my wire that goes to the tach port on my distributor.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cch
bahaha 'magine there was more side bulge then Rosie O'donnel in spandex.
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