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i have h&r race springs, bilstein struts/shocks, and mm c&c plates on the car currently. should i get the steeda x2 balljoints or go with the stock replacements?
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98 v6
-big k&n air filter, true dual exhaust w/ flow 40s, split port swap w/ 24# injectors, comp cam, p&p heads, tuned w/ xcal2 by vmp, ud crank pulley, bilstein struts/h&r race springs/ mm c&c plates, spec stage 1 clutch, mgw sts, mach1 wheels
Well the X2 balljoints have benefits over OEM replacement balljoints, and not for much more cost. The X2's fix steering geometry after lowering the car, reduces body roll, is higher quality than most OEM replacements, and will even allow you to fine tune ride height.
if i went ahead and got them, would i have to worry about bumpsteer and such? also, would i need to get swaybar endlinks for a lowered car no matter which balljoints, or would the x2s put it esentially back to stock ride height as far as the endlinks are concerned?
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98 v6
-big k&n air filter, true dual exhaust w/ flow 40s, split port swap w/ 24# injectors, comp cam, p&p heads, tuned w/ xcal2 by vmp, ud crank pulley, bilstein struts/h&r race springs/ mm c&c plates, spec stage 1 clutch, mgw sts, mach1 wheels
While the balljoints do affect bumpsteer, nothing corrects bumpsteer as much as an adjustable tie-rod end kit (bumpsteer kit). Steeda part # 555-8104 is best for this.
I usually tell customers, if you're needing to change the balljoints, why not get the X2's?
On the endlinks, the H&R Race springs do not lower enough to really need shorter endlinks, even without the balljoints. So part # 19-416 on our site is what you'll want.
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ball joints
