Street/StripRaced a guy from a light? Had that ride of yours on the timed track? Tell your story here. Sponsored by Roush Performance
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283 CI (stock block bored .20 over)
CP 17cc dished pistons
Hellion single turbo kit
Turbonetics T-76 s-trim turbo
accelleron 96lb injectors
accelleron driver box
Aeromotive eliminator return fuel system with eliminator pump
accufab twin 62mm throttle body
UPR tubular K-member
coilover front suspension with blistein shocks
magnaflow wide open exhaust with turndowns before the rear axle
Solid axle swap- Ford 9"
3.25 gear ratio
35 spline axles
Detroit locker locking unit
GT rear brakes
Blistein rear shocks
BBK loweirng springs in the rear
4" (i think) aluminum 1 pc drive shaft.
Ram street dual 300 series clutch
26 spline input shaft
stainless steel TOB retainer
sumped fuel tank
KB boost a pump
steeda tri ax shifter with mgw adjustable blue handle
3 gauge a pillar pod
AEM Eugo wideband
AEM true boost gauge with built in boost controller
Aeroforce obd2 scan gauge
Raptor pencil LED shift light
35mm integrated spacers
Weld prostars 15x10 and 15x 3.5
28x10.5 -15 MT ET DRAGS
25x4.5 - 15 MT ET DRAG skinnies
SCT X-calibrator 2 software
I think that is most of it anyway
those numbers are on 110 octane fuel. I rin 110 all the time so thats how it gets street driven. i plan to shim the wastegate and add boost and mybe c-16 here soon. and see how it does.
rule of thumb the bigger and taller the tire the better it will hook. but if his trap speed is not super high and not limited by gearration i would not go to a 28" tall tire stay with the shorter on for less rotating mass. It takes more power to turn the larger tire so if you are not limited by gear ratio idealy you get the smallest tire that you can hook on. i went to a 28" tire because with the 3.25 gear ratio we think it will put me through the traps at the top of 4th at around 145mph or so. have not been able to test it yet because the car is still getitng the cage put in it.
i wasnt correcting you, i was just being more straight-forward. to someone who doesnt know any better, your posts may just be more confusing. the rotational mass is the least of the concerns for most new racers...but some think that a slick=automatic perfect traction.
i see WAAAAAAAY too many guys at the track with slicks who dont need them...when i was a young buck, i got a set of free slicks, and i was in the high to mid 13s...with the slicks, i was in the low 14s...
An old sig as a tribute to a fallen friend. RIP Alex.
Vehicle: 4000 - 0 -.5 Yes, thats right. I tied half a race.
RE: Drag Slicks
USMC you don't need a "cheater slick" either. They are pretty much a regular slick with some grooves cut to pass DOT regs. Get a drag radial like a BFG or even a Nitto and you will be fine. BTW a TT Cobra going 7.8's on a DR is no big deal, there are cars that in the 8's (1/4) on a dr, I run 7.4's in the 1/8 on a MT dr, N/A to boot.
GET IN THE RING!
4/1/77 - 7/27/08
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