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Nice write-up Haney. I also recommend starting with your tire pressure UP instead of down. No reason to lower your tire pressure if your not spinning. I run my tires at 23lbs. Secondly I found with my car that I really don't have to do a killer burnout everytime. The first time on new sticker tires I do a nice smokey burnout but after that I just haze them in the water and roll out of the burnout box. My car makes 482 hp and 410tq and doing the burnout that way I can launch at 4200 without spinning, as long as the track can hold it. Keep practicing and don't get frustrated...
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2005 Mustang GT 5 spd.
Mods:Vortech HO, Bassani X pipe with cats, Bassani mufflers, Steeda LCA
How much stress does it put on the stock torque converter when doing a good burn out on drag radials?? how much time can be shaved off with a good multi-plate high stall converter (3k) on some DRs? 1/2- 1 second?
How much stress does it put on the stock torque converter when doing a good burn out on drag radials?? how much time can be shaved off with a good multi-plate high stall converter (3k) on some DRs? 1/2- 1 second?
sorry for the thread jack.
as to the DRs, really depends on where you are starting from and your set up. If your pulling 2.1 60s, then a good DR could be worth .5-.6 in the 1/4 IMHO. If your starting @ 1.8 60s, then maybe .3-.4.
my .02
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Tngstn 06GT-5 spd -Vortech HO S/C-Tuned by Realspeed Auto
You can never have too much power, just not enough traction. 11.867 @ 119.35
A good stall can knock off 1/2 second with either just suspension, just DRs/Slicks, or a combo of both. By itself, it can be tough to do much with. The downfall is that its a load on the transmission and creates a ton of heat, even with a trans cooler.
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2009 GT/CS, Vapor Silver, Manual '
308.4 RWHP/317.4 RWTQ
13.18 at 107 mph (2.0 60')...(1,243' DA, 75 degrees)
8.58 1/8th at 85 mph
A good stall can knock off 1/2 second with either just suspension, just DRs/Slicks, or a combo of both. By itself, it can be tough to do much with. The downfall is that its a load on the transmission and creates a ton of heat, even with a trans cooler.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stkjock
as to the DRs, really depends on where you are starting from and your set up. If your pulling 2.1 60s, then a good DR could be worth .5-.6 in the 1/4 IMHO. If your starting @ 1.8 60s, then maybe .3-.4.
my .02
+1 to both of these.
The drag radial's + converter are going to shock your part's pretty damn hard, and if you dont have suspension part's its not going to help to much.
But if i where you, do the tire's and suspension, then get a small stall with a tran's cooler so the car is still very easy in traffic.
suspension + tires + converter should knock off a hell of a lot of ET
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302; Cobra T5, 4.10's, ported E7's, Typhoon intake, full bolton's, full exhaust, NX 100-150wet shot
UPR upper/lower control arms, MM full length subframes, Strange Engineering 10way Shocks & Struts Mods on the way: Ported&O-Ringed Trick Flow heads, TF stage 2 cam, a/c removal, battery relocation
Thanks for the sig' Xeno!
So basically what you are saying then LS1 is that he was already close to the limit on how powerful his launch was going to get even before he got the better tires?
If that's true I suppose another fix for this problem might be more power.
I've read a lot of downsides about upping your stall converter. Maybe it's no big deal now that he has a company car. Before though... Seemed to be a bad idea.
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