Street/Strip Raced a guy from a light? Had that ride of yours on the timed track? Tell your story here.

Me at the strip video

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Old 03-17-2012, 01:45 PM
  #11  
Explosive
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I'd also say the traction issue was driver error. As everyone's said rev the bitch up high dump the clutch and stand on the brake. Not sure how strong your car is but in my fox body I usually do that but in 2nd gear since first is way too short.
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Old 03-17-2012, 01:49 PM
  #12  
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Also, 14 psi sounds damn low. First time I went to the track I aired mine down to like 18/19 psi and it was bogging off the line some and I talked to some guys and everyone said start at 30 and work your way down. Aired them up my next time out and instantly killed time on my ET's. I actually run 30 psi now. Every now and then I will spin a tad bit off the line and sometimes my 1-2 shift will spin the tires a tiny bit but not too often so thats where I'm keeping it. Pumped the hell out of my fronts too when I'm there.

I'd think more air + good burnout and that thing oughta hook.

Last edited by Explosive; 03-17-2012 at 01:52 PM.
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Old 03-17-2012, 02:16 PM
  #13  
scott4.6
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I know, im going to buy a line lock , they said i have to have a drive shaft loop and also wheel studs. I never backed into the water just up close to it and just cleaned the tires off. Im thinking it will run 8 .20s once i get it to hook and leave at about 4500 or better.
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Old 03-17-2012, 02:28 PM
  #14  
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Your track requires aftermarket wheel studs ? Shocked they even said anything about a loop.
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Old 03-17-2012, 02:36 PM
  #15  
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Yea they said i had to have the screw in studs cause of the tires, they said they had to stick thru the lugs. And the drive shaft loop cause of the tires also. i DIDNT THINK I HAD TO HAVE A LOOP UNLESS I HAD SLICKS.
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Old 03-17-2012, 04:39 PM
  #16  
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Heres my tracks rules. I see nothing about wheel studs, and they seem to be pretty relaxed on the loop rule as I've seen numerous cars with slicks on for the strip without a loop. However I'll be running a loop once my blowers on as I don't want the shaft flying all over damaging **** if it breaks.

Basic Safety Requirements

Liquid Overflow
Seat Belts
Neutral Safety Switch
Full Length Pants (No Shorts)
Short or Long Sleeve Shirt
Closed Shoes, Socks
Battery Mounted Securely
If Battery is Relocated an
External Cut Off is Required.

13.99
Helmet - Snell 2005 or Higher or M
Drive Shaft Loop (With Slicks)

Roll Bars and Roll Cages
11.00 - 11.49 Roll Bar11.00 - 13.49 Roll Bar Convertible10.99 and Quicker or 135 MPH Roll CageUnless it is a full body car with an unaltered firewall, floor, and body (from firewall rearward, wheeltubs permitted), running
10.00 - 10.99 roll bar permitted 9.99 & Faster NHRA Certified Chassis

10.00 - 11.49
Aftermarket Rear Axles (10.99)
Harmonic Balancer (10.99)
Transmission Shield (10.99 or 135 MPH)
Drive Shaft Loop
Seat Belts (5 Point SFI)good for 2 years from time stamped
Fire Jacket
Arm Restraints (Open Cars)/Roll Bar
8.50 - 9.99
Flexplate & Flexplate Shield (9.99 or 135 MPH)
Helmet Snell 2005 or newer
NHRA License
Fire Jacket
Open Body Needs Pants, Neck Collar, Arm Restraints & Gloves,Window net
Parachute required 150 MPH and faster




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Old 03-17-2012, 04:45 PM
  #17  
Stone629
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Fayetteville MotorSports Park.

Two rules.

Rule #1. Roll your window up before taking off.
Rule #2. Put your beer down before staging your car.

You guys think I'm kidding. I'm not.
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Old 03-17-2012, 05:04 PM
  #18  
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lol stone

just made this about 20 mins ago, don't need no stinkin line lock,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDGVf...1&feature=plcp

put it in second and give'r hell lol

Last edited by Explosive; 03-17-2012 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 03-17-2012, 05:32 PM
  #19  
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SICK! ^^^ Thats how you do it man.

And I totally agree with you, absolutely no need for a line lock. Rev, dump clutch, get on the brake, smoke 'em up.
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Old 03-17-2012, 06:10 PM
  #20  
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Yea, weathers been abnormally warm I got the itch to burn some rubber
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