1st time to the track this year... gonna be a learning curve
#21
#22
BMR adj UCA
BMR UCA Mount
BMR adj LCA's
BMR Panhard Bar
BMR Relo Brackets (bottom hole)
Eibach Pro Kit springs
275/60/15 M&H Drag radial
1 pc DS (-2* pinion angle)
3.73 Gear
Launch rpm's were not nearly high enough (3600-3800 rpm), so I had planned on next time going back to raise them to 4500. The 28" tall tire is a little harder to get used to than I thought.
That's my plan, but I am open to ANY suggestions
BMR UCA Mount
BMR adj LCA's
BMR Panhard Bar
BMR Relo Brackets (bottom hole)
Eibach Pro Kit springs
275/60/15 M&H Drag radial
1 pc DS (-2* pinion angle)
3.73 Gear
Launch rpm's were not nearly high enough (3600-3800 rpm), so I had planned on next time going back to raise them to 4500. The 28" tall tire is a little harder to get used to than I thought.
That's my plan, but I am open to ANY suggestions
1. Stock shocks and struts? GT500s with your setup tend to seesaw quite a bit, from what I've typically seen at the track. Adjustable shocks and struts help out quite a bit with that issue. I'd call adjustable shocks pretty much mandatory with your setup.
We use QA1 shocks on our 9-second 701rwhp horsepower 2010 GT. It has a full street suspension (not drag) and we run it on Hoosier drag radials. It is a very streetable combo, and the shocks are a big part of that.
Here's what we're using- http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-q...-shock-05.html
2. The other thing is that it's harder to hook up on drag radials with a stick car. You really have to ride the clutch to get them to work. With radials, if they spin on the hit, they are hard to hook back up. Bias ply tires (like Hoosier QTP or M/T ET Street) are more forgiving with a stick car. If you get the opportunity to try a set of 28x10.5 bias ply tires, make a pass on them and see how they act. You'll be impressed.
#23
That's a nice setup you have there. Only two things jump out at me:
1. Stock shocks and struts? GT500s with your setup tend to seesaw quite a bit, from what I've typically seen at the track. Adjustable shocks and struts help out quite a bit with that issue. I'd call adjustable shocks pretty much mandatory with your setup.
We use QA1 shocks on our 9-second 701rwhp horsepower 2010 GT. It has a full street suspension (not drag) and we run it on Hoosier drag radials. It is a very streetable combo, and the shocks are a big part of that.
Here's what we're using- http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-q...-shock-05.html
2. The other thing is that it's harder to hook up on drag radials with a stick car. You really have to ride the clutch to get them to work. With radials, if they spin on the hit, they are hard to hook back up. Bias ply tires (like Hoosier QTP or M/T ET Street) are more forgiving with a stick car. If you get the opportunity to try a set of 28x10.5 bias ply tires, make a pass on them and see how they act. You'll be impressed.
1. Stock shocks and struts? GT500s with your setup tend to seesaw quite a bit, from what I've typically seen at the track. Adjustable shocks and struts help out quite a bit with that issue. I'd call adjustable shocks pretty much mandatory with your setup.
We use QA1 shocks on our 9-second 701rwhp horsepower 2010 GT. It has a full street suspension (not drag) and we run it on Hoosier drag radials. It is a very streetable combo, and the shocks are a big part of that.
Here's what we're using- http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-q...-shock-05.html
2. The other thing is that it's harder to hook up on drag radials with a stick car. You really have to ride the clutch to get them to work. With radials, if they spin on the hit, they are hard to hook back up. Bias ply tires (like Hoosier QTP or M/T ET Street) are more forgiving with a stick car. If you get the opportunity to try a set of 28x10.5 bias ply tires, make a pass on them and see how they act. You'll be impressed.
As for tires, I agree 100%. Eventually, I will put a set of slicks on it and let it rip. This is actually the first car I have ever run drag radials on. As you said, they work "OK", but a bias ply would hook much better. The main reason I am using DRs is because I drive the car to the track as I am currently without a tow rig. If I can just get the 60ft's in the mid 1.5 range I think it will give me enough to run 6.70s on the good tune up, which is my short term goal.
What are your thoughts about removing the front sway bar when I go to the track?
#24
good times, will have to watch videos when I get home to hear that blower time.
might be irrelevant, but with only a 2500da, with a blower.... you might be losing a tenth in the 1/4. 2 tenths in the 1/4 max. So I wouldn't sweat that.
more seat time, and it will be much faster.
might be irrelevant, but with only a 2500da, with a blower.... you might be losing a tenth in the 1/4. 2 tenths in the 1/4 max. So I wouldn't sweat that.
more seat time, and it will be much faster.
#25
good times, will have to watch videos when I get home to hear that blower time.
might be irrelevant, but with only a 2500da, with a blower.... you might be losing a tenth in the 1/4. 2 tenths in the 1/4 max. So I wouldn't sweat that.
more seat time, and it will be much faster.
might be irrelevant, but with only a 2500da, with a blower.... you might be losing a tenth in the 1/4. 2 tenths in the 1/4 max. So I wouldn't sweat that.
more seat time, and it will be much faster.
#26
good times, will have to watch videos when I get home to hear that blower time.
might be irrelevant, but with only a 2500da, with a blower.... you might be losing a tenth in the 1/4. 2 tenths in the 1/4 max. So I wouldn't sweat that.
more seat time, and it will be much faster.
might be irrelevant, but with only a 2500da, with a blower.... you might be losing a tenth in the 1/4. 2 tenths in the 1/4 max. So I wouldn't sweat that.
more seat time, and it will be much faster.
#28
Yeah, I have talked to a couple of guys that have used the M&H tires with great success and they both said a longer burnout. I ran Mickey T DRs last year, and they didn't like a long burnout. I would just get them spinning and when I saw a little smoke they were ready to go. I was just used to them, so I am definitely going to put some more heat in the M&Hs next time out.
#29
Thanks for the tips. You pretty much confirmed what my plan of action is going to be. I know the stock shocks are killing my weight transfer. The car never really "gets up" on the tires to keep the rears planted. I am putting the car together as I have the budget for it, and honestly the money I was going to spend on shocks was spent when I had to replace the posi unit and gear. The QA1s are the ones I am looking at, I have heard great things about them. The ability to adjust them for street driving appeals greatly to me.
As for tires, I agree 100%. Eventually, I will put a set of slicks on it and let it rip. This is actually the first car I have ever run drag radials on. As you said, they work "OK", but a bias ply would hook much better. The main reason I am using DRs is because I drive the car to the track as I am currently without a tow rig. If I can just get the 60ft's in the mid 1.5 range I think it will give me enough to run 6.70s on the good tune up, which is my short term goal.
What are your thoughts about removing the front sway bar when I go to the track?
As for tires, I agree 100%. Eventually, I will put a set of slicks on it and let it rip. This is actually the first car I have ever run drag radials on. As you said, they work "OK", but a bias ply would hook much better. The main reason I am using DRs is because I drive the car to the track as I am currently without a tow rig. If I can just get the 60ft's in the mid 1.5 range I think it will give me enough to run 6.70s on the good tune up, which is my short term goal.
What are your thoughts about removing the front sway bar when I go to the track?
Fwiw, the Hoosier Quick Time Pros and the Mickey Thompson ET Streets are both DOT legal tires, so you could legally drive to the track on them. But they are bias ply tires, so you sacrifice handling in exchange for straight line traction.
You don't have to completely remove the front sway bar if you use it for street driving. You can just disconnect the endlinks.
Your car definitely has a 1.5X in it. I'd bet that upgrading the shocks and disconnecting the front swaybar would get you there.