SuspensionAsk all of your general suspension questions here!
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Thanks for the link and the info. So, I know if I go with the bolts everything won't be perfect, but do you think it will be enough to where I won't have abnormal tire wear? I just bought these tires and don't want to have to buy more anytime soon.
Unless you get your tires exactly flat on the road surface, you will have some abnormal wear. In the real world of tire wear, this will be very slight and probably not even notice. Even WITH this extra wear, the rest of the tires will be soo worn out, you may loose, what.... 500 miles of use otherwise?
The bolts are going to save WAY more money than the lost mileage of your tires. Now study hard in school and keep your grades up, or I will need to have a chat with your parents and your school teachers and tell them you have been blogging when you had homework due!
PS. Thanks, Aereon This thread is the 4.6 Modular section within the Tech articles and How-to's sticky. I just now looked in there and the whole thing is a MESS. I will talk to some mods and have it cleaned up a bit.
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I'm getting ready to replace the suspension in my 67 fastback. I just want it to ride smooth on the street, would you recomend doing a simple front suspension rebuild kit? If so, were would you recomend I find the right one?
I don't know much about the ol' school Stangs, but going CO's up front not only can improve your ride quality, but your cornering and getting an exact ride height you like. Of course, this depends on the strut/spring combo. The SN95 rides/handles nicely on a set of 300# CO springs, but MAY NOT be a good choice for you.
Talk with whoever is selling you the rebuild kit (not sure what all is included in this kit) and be sure to keep ULTIMATE goals for your ride in this discussion.
i was wondering if these would give me an option to adjust the ride on my Shelby GT (w/Ford Racing Stage 3 handling pack) so i can make it ride a little more comfortably for daily use. the ford racing shocks i have are not adjustable. it handles good but i like to soften it up a little so i can live with it everyday and then adjust it back to the firm side for weekend trips around the curves and switchbacks.
In general, springs/shocks/struts are my weakest part of my suspension knowledge, but that kit is recommended with the use of specific springs and roll-bars. I am not sure they would be a good choice, given what you already have.
I recommend you take this question over to the S197 Performance Handling section and ask the pepes over there. Pepes like Norm and Sam Strano (site sponsor) are about 1,000,000 times more knowledgeable on your model.
Ben a couple years, hope you're still on this site Jazzer. Love the sticky, just what I was looking for. I do VIR, NSS, RA, other road courses in my '03 10th Anniv Cobra, with a "couple mods" - 635 rwhp good enuf to beat up on vettes and mopars on 1/4, but suspension upgrades for road track. Much prefer the twisties. Just am putting in UPR chromoly K/A, CC kit, 12-350 springs in front, and am wondering if there is such a thing as a "suspension specialist" skill type found in the market for tuning for track? Everyone I know in the industry can make a car launch to the moon but hard to find the skills I'm looking for to tune the suspension for road track. Any thoughts? I'm in Nashville area in case you know of anyone to refer me to. Thanks in advance!
Very nice collection of information! I see why everyone mentions your name when suspension questions come up.
I'm not a dyed in the wool Mustang guy, rather I am an old school hotrod and race car chassis/suspension/cage guy. You made the most important point right at the outset and one that I've always had to remind customers of regardless of the nature of their car or interest; Supension is a system of parts that must work together and how well they are judged to work depends entirely on the driver having decided on the primary purpose of the vehicle.
I'll be in SFO a couple of days this coming week. Anything I should see on Monday night? That's about all the play time I get and touristy stuff isn't my thing.
anjin.... I wouldn't so much question the overall strength of a UPR "K", but would rather see you go with a Griggs "K" and SLA system for your described needs. The Griggs is going to be much stronger and geometry for open-track/AX work.
If you are looking to make your Mustang dig corners... I can think of nobody better than John or Bruce Griggs to discuss your "tuning" needs. Either can help you to attain max grip when you are turning the steering wheel!
You can pop into ATT park and see the Giants get beat up by an away team You will be too late to see your Houston team, but rest assured, they will at least split the series, I'm sure. I am not big on going to SF, except to see an occasional show and head through it to get to HWY 1 going south I MUCH prefer to go HWY 1 going North, as "The Fort Ross Twisties" are that way. The to-be and I will be hitting them on Sunday on the way up to make our own pizzas in Gualala
Shoot this baby at 50 and your livin' good! Remember.... no touchy no lines!
Awesome thread! Great guide for people new to solid rear axles like myself. Ok...so...I may be about to buy an SN95 and want to make it handle. My goal for the car is to make it a fun daily driver, also doing open track days or drifting. Don't care much about NVH, I'm used to it. My question for you guys is this: is it worth going for a k member, control arm and coilover upgrade, such as the MM kit? It sure seems like $4k is a lot, but if it's really worth it over something like their R&T box, I want it. Your thoughts?
If your goals are to do open-track and/or drifting stuff, YES... you are gonna want to do a kit. In fact, $4K is not gonna get you anywhere near where your stated goals are and really need to make a choice between open-track and drifting. A new tube "K" is a necessity for either of these activities, if you plan on going hardcore.
In fact, $4K is not gonna get you anywhere near where your stated goals are and really need to make a choice between open-track and drifting. A new tube "K" is a necessity for either of these activities, if you plan on going hardcore.
Really? What else would I need? For example, the MM Maximum Grip boxes are around $4500...what could I do from there, aside from going with an SLA setup, which doesn't seem necessary except for pure race cars? I'm not planning on going hardcore necessarily, it'd primarily be a street car. Aside from that, I would be drifting it more than road course driving. But I'm hoping to build a car that can do a bit of everything, with a little tuning Anyway, thanks for the quick response!!
$4K in parts will get you there in suspension parts, but still need it all installed and tuned. I don't know if you can do this, so if you can, that will be of significant savings in cost. I was thinking more of the entire package. Brakes, tires, proper seats and possibly some built drivetrain components to address the strain of driving your car hard. If you are going to be on an open-track, you will need those additional things to get the most of your new suspension (not to forget the driver-mod here, either!) I run an SLA in my car and get huge benefits from it at AX and a few select locations on the backroads (see The Fort Ross Twisties pic a couple posts up). Even on the street, I strongly recommend upgrade to brakes and a moderate racing seat for proper support.
If you can do all this work yourself, you can have quite an open-track ready car with just some brake upgrades (see sig) and proper seats. Unless you drive a Fox Body GT or I think those found in the S197, the seats in the SN95's are down right horrible for anything even remotely resembling lateral support.
Ahh I gotcha now I would be installing everything myself, everything that doesn't need welding that is (seems like the TA needs to be welded to the subframe connectors if I'm reading your guide correctly). I have a pretty good idea of alignment specs I'd be looking for, and I know someone who will let me use their scales, so I could put time into tuning / adjusting corner balance. As for brakes, I'm hoping to get by with factory SN95 Cobra units and some good pads. If I don't end up getting a Cobra though, brakes would definitely be in the pipeline if I plan on doing any road course work. You're right, the seats have got to go, too---have my eyes on a pair of Corbeau A4s or similar reclining buckets. One more question...would you recommend piecing together all these parts (potentially to spend less), or just going with a package like the MM one? Thanks again!
Matching everything together is a big part of the equasion and can do it in "pieces" if you like. Just find a kit you like, probably the Max Grip Box on MM or, if you wanna roll with the Big Cats... Griggs GR-40 The Griggs is gonna be MUCH more expensive, but much stronger for sure.
As for brakes, I would probably not go with the Cobra brakes. They are better than your existing ones, but will not address issues of heat as well as a set of Brembos or something. Heat is gonna be the big issue if you go to the open track and will need all out race brakes if you plan on many laps in succession with high speeds.
hey guys a few questions on my current setup. i have mm sports caster camber plates, eibach pro springs, strange single adjustable shocks, sn95 spindles, 17"x9" cobra r's and 245/45/r17 tires all around. just want to see what you think of this setup. it is for street use little to no racing. i have put no miles on this combo yet bc the car is still being finished up. i will have it on the road by the spring. before i get it back on the road i will be installing mm sports xl subframe connectors and mm sports lower control arms when i save the money. my other question is the stance of the car. i know this is an odd question but i am hoping to get a stance where the car sits level with minimal gaps between the fenders. i am not sure if i should have gone with a shorter spring like h&r supersport? as it sits in my garage now the back end seems alittle high in the rear? not sure if it is bc i have not driven it yet and the springs have not settled? i have heard conflicting opinions on if a springs do settle? what do you guys think? thanks mike
Sorry.... a bit slow getting to this but I think I answered this question elsewhere, didn't I....?
I like your list, but how little a gap around the fenders would you like? You won't be able to get anywhere near what you might see on a Porsche or BMW, as the fenders are just not designed the same way.
You may consider removing the isolators from both sides of the springs. This will give you a bit lower drop, yet not give you a stiffer ride.
Just wanted to say this is a great thread. Planning on lowering my Stang for DD and just came across this thread... Well, back to more reading.
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Great Thread...I signed up for this forum just to post and follow it. I've learned a ton about the 4 link in my fox.
I'm building for autocross open track and eventually competitive road racing. I'll eventually go the TA and PHB you and several others swear by.
For now though, I'm wondering what you think about doing spherical ended uppers and lowers from UMI, Tokico D spec adjustables and sport lowering springs as a start? Should the axle end of the arms still be rubber or is urethane ok due to the spherical ends? How about NVH? it's pretty stiff now and I wouldn't mind it being harder.
I have 4 wheel disc but it's still not great, what's your thoughts on SN95 calipers with hawk pads and slotted/driller rotors?
The UMI uppers linked from Summit are an upgrade over your OEM and certainly the eurothane arms you considered, in terms of suspension function. But, if you are planning to go PHB and TA one day, you can just leave the OEM rubber bushings in the uppers for now. The spherical UMI's will had LOTS of NVH (as wil ALL manufacturers with this design), but free up the rear axle a bit for sure. Depending on how long prior to going 3-link and knowing you will need to discard them when you do, you can go with them.
Brakes... Take a look at Brakes Upgrade thread (sig) and just go with the upgrades mentioned in there. Don't know what system you have on there now, but usually see an SN95 conversion to disc brakes on the Fox Body. So long as the calipers/rotors are not worn out or damaged in some way, just go 5.1 or better fluid, pads and SS lines for a MAJOR improvement in your brakes. Be sure to also upgrade the single rubber hose leading from the center of the axle to the body on the rear brake line. I was unable to find such a replacement for my '85 GT when I did my brakes many years ago. I figure one is probably available now.
Dampers... knowledge on these are not my strong suite at all The section on them in my guide is part the "copy/paste" portion mentioned early on in the guide. A friend added a bit of info, but not sure which part. Just make sure the valving of dampers is matched properly to the spring rate and is important for ride to be as advertised by both springs and dampers.
As for what is a good starting point for suspension upgrades?
1. FLSFC's ~ critical on the Fox Body and especially for things like AX
2. LCA's ~ Take a look at the list of ones I like and why, in this guide
3. Decision time...
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