5pointslow91

very good info, thanks bra

DRIVEN1

Thanks for the great info! That Griggs racing video was sick! I have been trying to decide to go between Griggs and MM for the suspension work and I think that just made up my mind. Off course that driver was also made that car and I think he could have made my grandmas caddie look good going up that mountain.

Jazzer The Cat

reznap: 7-3-09 @ 6:46 PM:
Thanks and I am NOT sorry


devongarver: 7-31-09 @ 7:42 AM:
Thanks and done



devongarver: 7-31-09 @ 7:42 AM:
Thanks and done


RipTide7: 7-31-09 @ 1:23 PM:
^ Yes, it is and have the authors permission to do copy/paste here

Jazzer... your humble hacker

MustangGt40th

Great info, but I have a question. I just ordered the H&R Super Sport Springs and I am considering the Tokico HP series shocks and struts for price reasons and because I have read good things on them. I am also planning to upgrade my Spring Isolators to polyurethane ones. Now on the subject of camber; will I be fine with just get the Eibach Camber bolts or do I have to get CC plates. I am not going to be racing my car in any way, I am just going for the "lowered look" and am tired of floating over imperfections in the road. I was also thinking of getting the BBK offset steering rack bushings, but i have read that those aren't necessarily good. Would I be better off just getting better standard steering rack bushings? I am a 17 year old suspension noob and not loaded with money, so I want whatever decision I decide to make to be a cost conscious one but at the same time be good for daily driving. Any help and/or wisdom would be greatly appreciated!!!

Jazzer The Cat

The camber bolts will not usually be enough to get you back to OEM specs. I had always heard, they were good for about 1° and believe the H&R SS springs create about 2° of neg. camber, not sure. I just now found a ***LINK*** to some that claim to be up to 1.75°, so maybe worth a try to save some $$$. CC plates are a wonderful upgrade to address not only the camber, but the caster. To get your tires back to OEM specs, you are gonna have to get CC plates. With them comes some NVH, so maybe do some research on them and look for ones that have less complaints of noise (some may be quieter than others)The SN95 will see some good benefits from additional caster and especially if you run a wider tire up front.

As for ISO's, unless your existing ones are shot, I see very limited benefit from them, beyond additional NVH, assuming you are in need of some more

Off-set rack bushings would be of some benefit, but would be better to get a bump-steer kit. I would not get the aluminum ones, in your case, as they are gonna bring more NVH into your ride and most beneficial to those looking for additional cornering performance.

Jazzer

MustangGt40th

I was hoping you weren't going to say that haha. There goes 200 more dollars. It says on the description they are good for 2 degrees, but I trust your judgment since you wrote a whole suspension article and have an amazing suspension set-up yourself. And any suggestions on CC plates? Any that you know of that are a little more budget-minded, but still get the job done?

And I know that I should probably get the bumpsteer kit but like I said, I am not loaded with money and if the offset steering bushings will work somewhat, that is what I will have to stick with for now.

oxfordgt

You should add about how to properly change the geometry of the stock suspension for improved traction. It is mostly for drag racing but when properly designed a drag suspension setup will out corner a built up IRS setup.

Jazzer The Cat

Well... pretty much all of the information listed is to improve traction... lol, but not focused on the 1/4 mile. I have, however, spoken very briefly to John Griggs about a WL/PHB and TA equipped 1/4 mile rides of which he has worked. He mentioned some major benefits to this over the OEM Mustang 4-link rear-suspension, but we did not get into detail at all. He did tell me, they use their heavy-duty TA on 8 second cars though. This did not get beyond this a short conversation, but there are probably some details he did not get into.

As for fine-tuning a 1/4 mile car, I will leave that to those who actually do it. I only have a single rip down the 1302 in my '72 Vega. Whipped out a mind-blowing 18.9 @ 69 MPH

Jazzer

MustangGt40th

Thanks for the link and the info. So, I know if I go with the bolts everything won't be perfect, but do you think it will be enough to where I won't have abnormal tire wear? I just bought these tires and don't want to have to buy more anytime soon.

Aereon

still remember when you originally posted this up=P this should have been stickied a long time ago.