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The Official Suspension Guide

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Old 06-18-2012, 01:43 PM   #41
cydonian man
 
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hey Jazzer,
i own an 07 mustang gt. with ford racing stage 3 handling pack. the height is 1.5" lower than stock. i noticed some uneven tread wear. so i asumed the lowered suspension effected teh camber angle. i installed the Maximum Motorsports caster cambers and was able to get the suspention alignment into the green. but noticed that i have a popping noise in the front end. it occurs when i am pulling in and out of my driveway which is inclined. also once in a while the front end will pop when i brake hard to a stop.
is this popping normal?

cyd
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Old 06-18-2012, 04:21 PM   #42
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Sounds like it may be the spring moving in one of the perches. Get it up in the air and pull the front wheel. Take a look up on there for rub marks where the spring meets in to the upper and lower mounts. Make sure the car is well supported by the frame and/or cradle and push/pull on the struts and work them around a bit. Confirm everything that was removed/loosened to install the CC plates, is now torqued down to proper specs and reinstalled how they were removed. Be sure to check EVERYTHING that was touched during that time.

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Old 06-19-2012, 12:16 PM   #43
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yeah, i'll have to take it to the shop and have them do that.

thanks
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Old 06-19-2012, 12:30 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazzer The Cat View Post
The UMI uppers linked from Summit are an upgrade over your OEM and certainly the eurothane arms you considered, in terms of suspension function. But, if you are planning to go PHB and TA one day, you can just leave the OEM rubber bushings in the uppers for now. The spherical UMI's will had LOTS of NVH (as wil ALL manufacturers with this design), but free up the rear axle a bit for sure. Depending on how long prior to going 3-link and knowing you will need to discard them when you do, you can go with them.

Brakes... Take a look at Brakes Upgrade thread (sig) and just go with the upgrades mentioned in there. Don't know what system you have on there now, but usually see an SN95 conversion to disc brakes on the Fox Body. So long as the calipers/rotors are not worn out or damaged in some way, just go 5.1 or better fluid, pads and SS lines for a MAJOR improvement in your brakes. Be sure to also upgrade the single rubber hose leading from the center of the axle to the body on the rear brake line. I was unable to find such a replacement for my '85 GT when I did my brakes many years ago. I figure one is probably available now.

Dampers... knowledge on these are not my strong suite at all The section on them in my guide is part the "copy/paste" portion mentioned early on in the guide. A friend added a bit of info, but not sure which part. Just make sure the valving of dampers is matched properly to the spring rate and is important for ride to be as advertised by both springs and dampers.

As for what is a good starting point for suspension upgrades?

1. FLSFC's ~ critical on the Fox Body and especially for things like AX
2. LCA's ~ Take a look at the list of ones I like and why, in this guide
3. Decision time...

Jazzer
Good to know, the car will still be street driven the majority of the time so that's good info. I think SFCs, spherical LCAs, rubber UCAs, springs and adjustable dampers are the way I'm going until the TA setup. Thanks.

As for the brakes, I'm a little confused. I want to do the simple upgrades you describe first (SS lines, good pads/fluid, etc). But, is converting to SN95 rotors and calipers part of those "simple upgrades"? Or, can I retain the 1993
fox front rotors and calipers? Going SN95 means a spindle change, right?

Bottom line, is an upgrade to SS lines, Hawk pads, good rotors, 5.1 fluid with stock 93 rotors and calipers going make a big difference or or am I better off doing the SN95 rotor swap first?

Sorry to be a pain, I was just a little fuzzy on this...Thanks!
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Old 06-19-2012, 07:09 PM   #45
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Your OEM rotors/calipers are just fine, only need the fluid, lines and pads for wonderful brakes. This will make a big difference, but really only in conditions where your existing set-up would get hot. That is to say, the upgrades recommended in my guide are for your brakes to be MUCH more resiliant to heat, prior to issues of brake fade. If your car can lock up the wheels right now, these will NOT help you to stop better. They will help you to still have braking power, when your existing stuff would get soaked with heat and turn into a sponge.

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Old 06-20-2012, 01:50 PM   #46
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Great thread and very nice of you to share your knowledge. I skimmed through to see if my question had been ask and did not spot it. Sorry if I missed it.

I have a 96 S281 Speedster I am restoring/slightly modifying and need to rebuild the suspension. I had settled on the J&M upper and lower with their 3 piece flex bushing. But after reading this I'm not sure. The car is strictly street driven but I do love charging an open freeway on-ramp now and then. The motor is being built NA 290-305 RWHP. Do you have any experience or opinion on the J&M arms and bushings as an upgrade to the stock rubber?

Thank You
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:08 PM   #47
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Welcome, Justflloatn and thank you

While I think the 3-piece poly-ball design is probably an improvement over the OEM rubber, the solid arms probably negate the upside. The OEM arms are not only semi-forgiving due to soft rubber bushings, but the arms themselves are flexable. There is just a poor relationship between the suspension fuction and design of the UCA location and feel the rear end should be as free as possible. I think the NVH will be improved (less) with the poly-ball design over a set of sphericals, but I just don't think one should get rid of the OEM ones to look for improvement and not free it up as much as possible. I heard this design allows like 60% more freedom of movement (don't quote me there), but a spherical ball offers 100% better freedom.

If you are going so far as to replace the uppers for improved performance, I recommend you go spherical bearing.

Jazzer

Last edited by Jazzer The Cat; 06-20-2012 at 08:48 PM. Reason: clarification
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Old 09-27-2012, 04:04 PM   #48
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Hey Great post !! i was just wonder which kit youd recommend most for Drifting, my dream has always been too drift a 99-04 style stang. I see MM's Road and track box pack is not to bad and costs 2500$? would you say its worth it or is there better? I have a nissan 180sx right now but been a blue oval fan since the day i was born. Thanks
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Old 09-28-2012, 09:31 PM   #49
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I don't know of any drift specific suspensions, but more the theory of what you need to drift.

1. very soft front springs/dampers, very stiff rear springs/dampers
2. LOTS and LOTS of HP/T
3. Probably more steering angle needed than found on an OEM SN95

No doubt there is more needed, but I have limited knowledge on the subject, as The Kitty likes to keep all four tires firmly planted on the road surface
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:54 PM   #50
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yes definatly wide angle, but really you dont need that much Hp, you just need to learn too kick the car out and maintain proper oversteer. I know guys that drift their 110hp AAE86 corrolla's or stock miata's.
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:33 PM   #51
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The Mustang weighs in a bit more than eiter of those, but I guess it depends on a lot of factors. To do the high-speed drifting that I occasionally see on open tracks and such are sporting some pretty good HP, but I don't know how much. More to it than kicking the car out, as you heed to overcome the grip of the tires to avoid getting grip.

I am certainly no authority of drifting, but just some of my thoughts
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Old 10-06-2012, 01:48 PM   #52
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great info just what i was looking for
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Old 10-20-2012, 03:50 PM   #53
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Jazzer I see u like the lca to have the spherical bushing at the body side If possible, is this for stock springs or cos? Won't this cause the Stock location springs to roll in the corners? Is this beneficial?
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:02 PM   #54
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A spherical end is beneficial on any of the Mustangs ever produced. Not sure what you mean by "roll in the corners", so you will need to clarify for me.

Jazzer thinks you may have joined MF's just to ask him a question and this humbles The Kitty
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:26 PM   #55
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I did join to ask. U seem really knowledgable. What I mean is when the spherical is on the body and rolls, the spring mount on the control arm will not be parallel with the body and will cause the spring to want to roll or flex in the middle, won't it? Where as a spherical on the axle end will not effect the spring. I am wanting to know because I am looking for lca's. I read your suspension guide and read u liked the spherical on the body side if possible. I'm just trying to understand the reasoning. Was considering upr, mm, and j&m. Car is a dd that sees a nice set of corners every day. Thanks for letting me pick your brain.
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Old 10-21-2012, 05:35 AM   #56
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You have noticed what many fail to do, so kudos Click the image to open in full size.

Yes... the LCA will roll in the manner in which you speak, but not enough to be an issue with the sping. I like it on the TB (torque box) end, because of the relationship to the sway bar. When the axle articulates, the sway bar remains consistant in how much resistance it adds to the equasion, because the arms remain truly parallel* to each other. This way, the bar ONLY gets twisted laterally or along its length. If sphericals are on the axle end only, the arms do NOT remain parallel and the bar is also bent in the same was as an antenna would be if you pushed on the sides. This is not a big deal and either arm will work fine, I just feel this is a more mechanically sound way to ask the say bar to work. I know lots of OEM sway bars break at one of the mounting holes and would not be surprised if it was to be proven this is part or all of the reasons why

As far as sway bars go, I happen to like the MMRSB from Maximum Motorsports. I run the #7 bar and really like the adjustability, as well as the mechanical function.

Jazzer

*Not sure if "parallel" is a truly accurate description here. Would be more accurate to say that the mounting surfaces of sway bar remain constant with the axle and therefore the sway bar ONLY twists along its length

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Old 10-21-2012, 10:04 AM   #57
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Thanks for the explanation.
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Old 11-28-2012, 11:25 AM   #58
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Awesome thread! Been reading it all morning. Hoping you can help me with suggestions. I'm planning on getting the H&R sport springs and its taking it down 1.6 in front and 1.5 in rear and running cobra r's with 9 in the front and 10.5 out back. I'm not going to be racing it of any sort but dont want a curve to slow me down either. Any good shocks you would suggest and what else might I need?
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Old 11-29-2012, 09:37 AM   #59
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You're like the 4th person to join the forums and ask me a question on his/her firs post

Unfortunately, dampers and springs are just not my strong suit at all , but if you are looking for a quality shock/strut, you cannot go wrong with Bilsteins or Koni. They can be among the more expensive ones, but offer wonderful control of your ride.

As for other items, it comes down to your ULTIMATE goal. There is a tremendous amount of upgrades that can be done to improve the Mustangs cornering performance, but will come at two costs. The first being the obvious... $$$, while the second is that of NVH. Dampers are among the only suspension mods you can do that improve cornering at minimal/no cost to NVH.

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Old 11-29-2012, 12:24 PM   #60
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ok is there a certain type bilsteins since the car is going to be lower or just stock replacements and maybe who to go with with the dampers? I'm not trying to spend alot of money but since I'm planning on replacing parts I wouldn't mind doing it with better parts.
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Old 11-29-2012, 12:24 PM
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