SuspensionAsk all of your general suspension questions here!
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Thanks for the link and the info. So, I know if I go with the bolts everything won't be perfect, but do you think it will be enough to where I won't have abnormal tire wear? I just bought these tires and don't want to have to buy more anytime soon.
Unless you get your tires exactly flat on the road surface, you will have some abnormal wear. In the real world of tire wear, this will be very slight and probably not even notice. Even WITH this extra wear, the rest of the tires will be soo worn out, you may loose, what.... 500 miles of use otherwise?
The bolts are going to save WAY more money than the lost mileage of your tires. Now study hard in school and keep your grades up, or I will need to have a chat with your parents and your school teachers and tell them you have been blogging when you had homework due!
PS. Thanks, Aereon This thread is the 4.6 Modular section within the Tech articles and How-to's sticky. I just now looked in there and the whole thing is a MESS. I will talk to some mods and have it cleaned up a bit.
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I'm getting ready to replace the suspension in my 67 fastback. I just want it to ride smooth on the street, would you recomend doing a simple front suspension rebuild kit? If so, were would you recomend I find the right one?
I don't know much about the ol' school Stangs, but going CO's up front not only can improve your ride quality, but your cornering and getting an exact ride height you like. Of course, this depends on the strut/spring combo. The SN95 rides/handles nicely on a set of 300# CO springs, but MAY NOT be a good choice for you.
Talk with whoever is selling you the rebuild kit (not sure what all is included in this kit) and be sure to keep ULTIMATE goals for your ride in this discussion.
i was wondering if these would give me an option to adjust the ride on my Shelby GT (w/Ford Racing Stage 3 handling pack) so i can make it ride a little more comfortably for daily use. the ford racing shocks i have are not adjustable. it handles good but i like to soften it up a little so i can live with it everyday and then adjust it back to the firm side for weekend trips around the curves and switchbacks.
In general, springs/shocks/struts are my weakest part of my suspension knowledge, but that kit is recommended with the use of specific springs and roll-bars. I am not sure they would be a good choice, given what you already have.
I recommend you take this question over to the S197 Performance Handling section and ask the pepes over there. Pepes like Norm and Sam Strano (site sponsor) are about 1,000,000 times more knowledgeable on your model.
Ben a couple years, hope you're still on this site Jazzer. Love the sticky, just what I was looking for. I do VIR, NSS, RA, other road courses in my '03 10th Anniv Cobra, with a "couple mods" - 635 rwhp good enuf to beat up on vettes and mopars on 1/4, but suspension upgrades for road track. Much prefer the twisties. Just am putting in UPR chromoly K/A, CC kit, 12-350 springs in front, and am wondering if there is such a thing as a "suspension specialist" skill type found in the market for tuning for track? Everyone I know in the industry can make a car launch to the moon but hard to find the skills I'm looking for to tune the suspension for road track. Any thoughts? I'm in Nashville area in case you know of anyone to refer me to. Thanks in advance!
Very nice collection of information! I see why everyone mentions your name when suspension questions come up.
I'm not a dyed in the wool Mustang guy, rather I am an old school hotrod and race car chassis/suspension/cage guy. You made the most important point right at the outset and one that I've always had to remind customers of regardless of the nature of their car or interest; Supension is a system of parts that must work together and how well they are judged to work depends entirely on the driver having decided on the primary purpose of the vehicle.
I'll be in SFO a couple of days this coming week. Anything I should see on Monday night? That's about all the play time I get and touristy stuff isn't my thing.
anjin.... I wouldn't so much question the overall strength of a UPR "K", but would rather see you go with a Griggs "K" and SLA system for your described needs. The Griggs is going to be much stronger and geometry for open-track/AX work.
If you are looking to make your Mustang dig corners... I can think of nobody better than John or Bruce Griggs to discuss your "tuning" needs. Either can help you to attain max grip when you are turning the steering wheel!
You can pop into ATT park and see the Giants get beat up by an away team You will be too late to see your Houston team, but rest assured, they will at least split the series, I'm sure. I am not big on going to SF, except to see an occasional show and head through it to get to HWY 1 going south I MUCH prefer to go HWY 1 going North, as "The Fort Ross Twisties" are that way. The to-be and I will be hitting them on Sunday on the way up to make our own pizzas in Gualala
Shoot this baby at 50 and your livin' good! Remember.... no touchy no lines!
Awesome thread! Great guide for people new to solid rear axles like myself. Ok...so...I may be about to buy an SN95 and want to make it handle. My goal for the car is to make it a fun daily driver, also doing open track days or drifting. Don't care much about NVH, I'm used to it. My question for you guys is this: is it worth going for a k member, control arm and coilover upgrade, such as the MM kit? It sure seems like $4k is a lot, but if it's really worth it over something like their R&T box, I want it. Your thoughts?
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