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Old 10-22-2014, 07:14 PM   #1
BlindGUYnAR
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Default Am I correct? Lowering ?'s

Project car 2008 GT Convertable.

I'm planning a winter project and a Christmas list. This is mostly fact checking to confirm my understanding from the research I have done reading the stickys and threads. I do need some recommendations and questions answered though as well.


FACT AND GENERAL UNDERSTANDING CHECK:
If I want to lower the car 1.3 to 1.5 inches all I really need is the lowering springs. However since the panhard bar is fixed length the rear axle will no longer be quite centered. I'll also lose some traction as my LCA's are no longer parallel with the ground. If I lower the car greater than 1.5 in the front then bump steer will likely be introduced.

I can correct the Traction loss with either LCA relocation brackets or adjustable LCA's or UCA's. To keep a stock feel the brackets or poly bushings on both ends of the adj LCA's/UCA's is best.

To correct the axle centering an adjustable panhard bar or a watts link can be used. I'll choose panhard bar for cost and street use as the cars function.

To correct bump steer there is a bump steer kit to reduce it.


ACTUAL PLANS:
However I actually want to make it handle better so I was thinking about buying this kit from AM.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach...em-0510gt.html

Since a one piece driveshaft is somewhere down the road I think I'll go with the adj LCA option as that will set me up for when that time comes. LCA's being easier to adjust due to access than UCA's being the reason for my choice of LCA's over UCA's.

I need a recommendation on adj LCA's that won't be to harsh or noisy though.

For a panhard bar I was thinking just the dual adjustable steeda or UPR bar. There Didn't seem to be a lot of differences in all the bars I looked at so these seemed as good as anything else.

Does the car being a convertable have any effect on any of this? Like I think it weighs more than a coupe so might it drop more with the lowering springs for example.

With the lowering springs I'm going with having a 1.3 in in front does anything get out of wack on the front end? Like caster/camber of the wheels? That I need to correct to get back within specs? I don't want tires to wear uneven for example.

This car will never see a track, but I live in the ozark mountains so lots of twisty roads it will see. I will be adding some 20in deep dish wheels if that makes any difference as well.

I tried to do my research before asking questions, but I'm to the point of needing recommendations and not wanting to buy the wrong stuff.

I'll be doing the work myself over a few week period while the car isn't being driven anyway over the winter. And yes as my ID suggests I am nearly blind, but I've never let conventional wisdom or common sense for that matter stand in my way so I'm not worried about this project as it seems straight forward to me

Thanks for any help.
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Old 10-22-2014, 09:29 PM   #2
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This was mostly correct. You only need springs to be able to lower it.

This adjustable PHB is recommended so you can center the rear, but it's not absolutely necessary:
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-p...rd-bar-05.html

Adjustable LCAs won't correct the angle. LCA Relo Brackets do that, but they're not necessary with a 1.5" drop. On the contrary, even though I sell the strongest set on the market, I don't recommend installing the LCA Relos unless you plan to weld and brace the axle housing at the same time as the LCA Relo installation. Otherwise, you could spin a tube and have major problems.
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Old Yesterday, 09:04 AM   #3
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Looks like Sharad beat me by a mile here and I think you would be just fine running the Eibach Pro-System without the Panhard Bar but I think it's something that would help the cars overall performance when you're pushing it in the twisties. Let me know if there's anything else I can help out with, I'm always a PM away as you know!

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Old Yesterday, 10:33 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UPRSharad View Post
This was mostly correct. You only need springs to be able to lower it.

This adjustable PHB is recommended so you can center the rear, but it's not absolutely necessary:
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-p...rd-bar-05.html

Adjustable LCAs won't correct the angle. LCA Relo Brackets do that, but they're not necessary with a 1.5" drop. On the contrary, even though I sell the strongest set on the market, I don't recommend installing the LCA Relos unless you plan to weld and brace the axle housing at the same time as the LCA Relo installation. Otherwise, you could spin a tube and have major problems.
Interesting I would have thought that adj LCA's that were adjusted shorter than the stock length would have reestablished the parallel geometry. One less thing to buy now. I think I will need them with a one piece drive shaft though.

To confirm: For lowering & handling I just need the springs/scocks/struts/sway bars. Pan hard to correct centering of axle if I want. Nothing needed in the front with only a 1.3 in drop. No tires will wear uneven or anything like that.

Will it being a convertable make it drop any extra amount above the 1.3 -> 1.5 specs for that kit? I would want it to look funny dropped extra in the back as opposed to the front for example. I am looking for similar wheel/fender gaps if that makes sense.

I've only ran across one kit "made" for a vert with a 1" drop all around, which sense it drops all wheels the same amount, would leave uneven gaps as the car has today.

Every other kit says it will "also" fit a vert, but I think the vert weighing more would change the springs up a bit.

I am concerned about this extra weight affecting the look and handling of a kit. Unless that kit is specifically designed for a vert.
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Old Yesterday, 08:20 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlindGUYnAR View Post
Interesting I would have thought that adj LCA's that were adjusted shorter than the stock length would have reestablished the parallel geometry. One less thing to buy now. I think I will need them with a one piece drive shaft though.

To confirm: For lowering & handling I just need the springs/scocks/struts/sway bars. Pan hard to correct centering of axle if I want. Nothing needed in the front with only a 1.3 in drop. No tires will wear uneven or anything like that.

Will it being a convertable make it drop any extra amount above the 1.3 -> 1.5 specs for that kit? I would want it to look funny dropped extra in the back as opposed to the front for example. I am looking for similar wheel/fender gaps if that makes sense.

I've only ran across one kit "made" for a vert with a 1" drop all around, which sense it drops all wheels the same amount, would leave uneven gaps as the car has today.

Every other kit says it will "also" fit a vert, but I think the vert weighing more would change the springs up a bit.

I am concerned about this extra weight affecting the look and handling of a kit. Unless that kit is specifically designed for a vert.
With a 1.5" drop, you'll be around -1.7° camber up front. I happen to like the additional camber for extra cornering grip. But if you want to decrease the camber, you can rotate the stock strut mounts 180° and you'll be back to factory specs.
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Old Yesterday, 08:20 PM
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