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run the teksid but be careful u have a smaller cubic inch motor, it has its limits, in track only car with a turbo setup for YSI/F1 procharger youll be pushing the limits of these smaller motors even with the right precautions, a couple minor hiccups and you'll be splitting her open. what kinda power you lookin at?
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95 gt vert: 331 stroker, d-1sc @ 10 lbs,582 rwhp 511 ft. Tq
2003 sonic blue cobra KB 2.2 @ 19psi,supporting mod, solid 8.8 601 rwhp 584 rwtq
run the teksid but be careful u have a smaller cubic inch motor, it has its limits, in track only car with a turbo setup for YSI/F1 procharger youll be pushing the limits of these smaller motors even with the right precautions, a couple minor hiccups and you'll be splitting her open. what kinda power you lookin at?
That is correct. When making big power, with relatively small cubes, you must be very careful. NEVER hot lap your car. My car gets at least a 20 min. cool down period between each run, as longevity is important to me, especially with the kind of boost that I am running.
Be smart...
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Wisdom is simply the awareness of your own ignorance...
HAVOC
Don't forget the aluminum expands under heat too. The difference is in the setup. Aluminum can (and should) be built tighter to compensate for the heat expansion, so aluminum due to its nature is actually more forgiving under heat as long as you keep it there. I'm not saying that too much for too long won't kill it, extreme situations can kill ANY motor, but if it's built for it, it can take it. I should've probably read the 10-12 posts prior to this, I really don't know where this thread has been.
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Silver 04 SVT Cobra
Twin 57mm Garrett Turbos
Full Maximum Motorsports (and QA1) Suspension
Huge Brakes
Loud Audio
900 HP Daily Driven Boulevard Monster
See a full mod list, Dyno Vids and Build Slideshow here:www.fquick.com/smokin04 Just click on the Cobra.
The aluminator block might be better for your application. It's just as good as the Teksid and cheaper (in some cases) as well. They come ready to go, unlinke the Teksid which will need machining. The big daddy of course is the SHM race block...but after machining you're looking at a 5800 dollar price tag. The next in the pecking order is the iron Boss 5.0 Modular. Really stout caps and mains. Lots of material, yadda yadda...a little pricier still, but you will save money by only having to build one. The MMR race block is up there too, but can be had after machining for about the same as the SHM block, but you get the cubes out of the MMR block.
But +1 on what the guys are saying, without knowing your power level goals and for what purpose you're building the engine, it's like trying to pour a beer in the dark.
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Silver 04 SVT Cobra
Twin 57mm Garrett Turbos
Full Maximum Motorsports (and QA1) Suspension
Huge Brakes
Loud Audio
900 HP Daily Driven Boulevard Monster
See a full mod list, Dyno Vids and Build Slideshow here:www.fquick.com/smokin04 Just click on the Cobra.
your best bet is the old iron 2v block. The teksid has no real advantage other than weight. Aluminum blocks can be repaired, but lets face it... your not going to repair it, even if it breaks. The weight saving is minimal in comparison to the cost. If you were going to do a mid power car, and track race it then Id be all for the teksid... but in reality its just going to be a bragging point... and as others have mentioned hot lapping is a concern, also aluminum blocks have special considerations in high hp drag racing due to the processes used to strengthen the block (it basically weakens over repeated extreme heat cycles)... IMO either one would be just fine, but the teksid is not necessary and the iron block should save you some coin, both in initial cost and labor
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TRADE MY Mach 1 HOOD + scoop set up for easy GT install (attached, no intake system necessary, unless you want it) for a COWL hood and maybe STOCK + CASH (but probably not). The hood is painted silver, in great shape, does need a color sand, but thats no biggie. Would prefer a swap for a silver one, but will consider many options. Need to trade due to changed plan on this car. RTP/Greensboro/Charlotte
I built a regular terminator iron block. They have been proven to withstand over 1100 rwhp... Can't go wrong with the Termy block.
yup the guy who tunes my car has one non stroker at 1155 rwhp, how ever it did last 2 seasons it eventually took its toll and broke not only did it break it broke open a water jacket and hydo locked the motor...no replacement for displacement comes into play when your putting down big power and looking for dependability.
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95 gt vert: 331 stroker, d-1sc @ 10 lbs,582 rwhp 511 ft. Tq
2003 sonic blue cobra KB 2.2 @ 19psi,supporting mod, solid 8.8 601 rwhp 584 rwtq
+1 ... but some people would rather believe internet BS
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TRADE MY Mach 1 HOOD + scoop set up for easy GT install (attached, no intake system necessary, unless you want it) for a COWL hood and maybe STOCK + CASH (but probably not). The hood is painted silver, in great shape, does need a color sand, but thats no biggie. Would prefer a swap for a silver one, but will consider many options. Need to trade due to changed plan on this car. RTP/Greensboro/Charlotte
havnt read this thread for quite a while been back over in the 5.0 section talking to the guys, and after strippin the car down to .... pretty much nothing, i have decided that i am probably going to be going with a termi swap (just keep it stock with a pulley or something till i get used to it)
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been back over in the 5.0 section talking to the guys, and after strippin the car down to .... pretty much nothing, i have decided that i am probably going to be going with a termi swap (just keep it stock with a pulley or something till i get used to it)
