Header Install

[a_penquin]

Took me a week to do mine (full exhaust, didnt have all the stuff off the get go and replace/broke ****). Driveway with 4 drive on ramps, ratchet/wrench set and a cherry picker to do it. For long tubes I recommend wrapping the headers (mine are and the floorboards are still toasty). Dont forget about O2 extentions or be prepared to lengthen the harness. You have to pull both motor mounts (one side at a time), the starter, steering shaft, and intake box/tube. Be prepared to get pissed, cut up (hope you have some small hands), and frustrated. I broke a stud off my starter, had to replace both motor mounts, fought for two hours to get the steering shaft back in, and re-tap/chase threads in the head (5/16x8mm tap if I remember correctly). I had to wait for motor mounts to be shipped to the store (not normal stock), O2 sensor extensions shipped (to a chevy shop non the less lol) and about 10 stores tracking down the correct tap. Overall it was a pain in the ass, but worth every moment in the end. I think if they ever need replaced Im just making turbo manifolds outta them.....

This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!

[OzzDOA]

Do the clutch, flywheel, pilot and TOB while you are at it. Once the long tubes are in it is impossible to pull the trans without at least loosening the passenger side headers.

[pitmitch910]

Originally Posted by a_penquin

Took me a week to do mine (full exhaust, didnt have all the stuff off the get go and replace/broke ****). Driveway with 4 drive on ramps, ratchet/wrench set and a cherry picker to do it. For long tubes I recommend wrapping the headers (mine are and the floorboards are still toasty). Dont forget about O2 extentions or be prepared to lengthen the harness. You have to pull both motor mounts (one side at a time), the starter, steering shaft, and intake box/tube. Be prepared to get pissed, cut up (hope you have some small hands), and frustrated.

I broke a stud off my starter, had to replace both motor mounts, fought for two hours to get the steering shaft back in, and re-tap/chase threads in the head (5/16x8mm tap if I remember correctly). I had to wait for motor mounts to be shipped to the store (not normal stock), O2 sensor extensions shipped (to a chevy shop non the less lol) and about 10 stores tracking down the correct tap.

Overall it was a pain in the ass, but worth every moment in the end. I think if they ever need replaced Im just making turbo manifolds outta them.....

haha damn i feel lucky mine went so easy, make sure u spray everything with a lot of PB blaster

[pcs]

Originally Posted by ecal533

You have to drop the K-Member which is not that big of a deal. 6 Bolts hold it on. Motor Mount Knuts and 2 rack and pinion nuts. Hold the motor with a jack (Use a peice of wood between it and the oil pan.) If I were you, buy an aftermarket K member, aroud $225, to put back in as they weight less, improve suspension and give you more room the next time around.

def dont have to drop the k-member. done it more than once.

[mynamesbryan]

ok so i dropped my motor into the car with headers intalled already.. i have my the motor sitting on the mounts but my steering column is hanging unattached.. do i have to take off the headers on the drivers and slide it between the pipes or can reconnect the column with the headers intact?

[1SVTLVR]

You should be able to connect it without uninstalling the header but it will be a pain, I suggest a rubber hammer. I did my long tubes without droping the k-member as well and it was difficult but not too hard. Raise the motor and you should be good to go for the steering shaft.