You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
I spun a rod to crank bearing on cylinder 6, also the crank didn't spin freely as it should, main bearings seemed to have pits. Looks like I am going with Coasthigh's 5.1L shortblock and porting the stock heads for now. Anyone used Coasthigh?? Also bought a spec stg 2 clutch, trying to figure out what flywheel to go with and any other tips you guys have would be awesome!
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!
__________________
98 Cobra
Current Mods:
MMR Intake Spacer, Sniper Tuned 93 Octane, 4.10 Gears, JLT Cold Air Intake, BBK LTs, O/R Shorty H-pipe, Flowmasters, Short Throw Shifter (not sure which brand), 03 Cobra rims: 255/40/17 Front 315/40/17 Rear, Dark a** illegal tint. Saving up for the honda sticker purchase, haha
spec stage 2 clutch is amazing, i have it, once you get used to it have fun, deff get a adjustable clutch quadrant....and just get a new flywheel or resurface your stock one, i heard with light weight ones you lose torque....but i have the stage 2, and when u dump it, damn also still snaps your neck in 4th, wait till you feel the kick...and never used coast high or really heard of em??? how about d.s.s. or some other shindig..or how bout mach1 motor on ebay for about 2 grand...bolts right up to ur t-45
__________________
Big Snake, Little Bite...Full Bolt-On 97 Cobra, Bored .30 over...Need Kenne Bell
-1986 IROC-Z-SOLD
-1985 GT T-Top-SOLD
-1994 GT-SOLD
-2002 GT-SOLD
-1997 COBRA-LOVE!!
-1988 Mercury Cougar Bostonian, 5.0 60k Mile Peach
-1985 GT-Carb'd Special, Bolt on's and a t-5 n Sunroof!
-1993 Ford F-150 4.9I6 5 Speed-WON'T DIE
You will need an Engine Hoist. You can keep the Transmission still mounted to the Engine if you so choose.
You will have to remove everything in the engine bay except for the Engine components to remove it from the top.
On average, with at least 2 guys, it should take 2-3 hours to pull it out, if you guys really know what you are doing.
Good luck, and "Congrats" on blowing your motor.
PS- What are your plans for Forging? Are you going to buy a whole new motor to build off of, what is your budget, and is this going to be a winter project?
__________________
2003 10th Anni Torch Red Cobra 462 RWHP 486 RWTQ SAE
Fluidyne Heat Exchanger
H&R Springs
K&N FIPK
Mac O/R Prochamber and Borla Stinger C/B
BF 2.76 Pulley
LDC Chicago HCM
Many more mods
spec stage 2 clutch is amazing, i have it, once you get used to it have fun, deff get a adjustable clutch quadrant....and just get a new flywheel or resurface your stock one, i heard with light weight ones you lose torque....but i have the stage 2, and when u dump it, damn also still snaps your neck in 4th, wait till you feel the kick...and never used coast high or really heard of em??? how about d.s.s. or some other shindig..or how bout mach1 motor on ebay for about 2 grand...bolts right up to ur t-45
Yeah, i'm excited about the stg 2. I'm going with CHP because they build a 5.1 (5.07 actually) short block, all forged and rated to 800hp for less than 3K shipped. Figured out i'd lose about 8hp to a loss of compression but gain 29 ci from it so possibly a gain of 21hp as well as more airflow through a larger bore. Mach1 motor would be the same basically and I really wanna get a completely forged engine.
__________________
98 Cobra
Current Mods:
MMR Intake Spacer, Sniper Tuned 93 Octane, 4.10 Gears, JLT Cold Air Intake, BBK LTs, O/R Shorty H-pipe, Flowmasters, Short Throw Shifter (not sure which brand), 03 Cobra rims: 255/40/17 Front 315/40/17 Rear, Dark a** illegal tint. Saving up for the honda sticker purchase, haha
You will need an Engine Hoist. You can keep the Transmission still mounted to the Engine if you so choose.
You will have to remove everything in the engine bay except for the Engine components to remove it from the top.
On average, with at least 2 guys, it should take 2-3 hours to pull it out, if you guys really know what you are doing.
Good luck, and "Congrats" on blowing your motor.
PS- What are your plans for Forging? Are you going to buy a whole new motor to build off of, what is your budget, and is this going to be a winter project?
Yeah, planning for forge as said above. Also looking to port my heads as much as I can with a few power tools. Anyone got advice on what NOT to do and what to do? I really don't wanna think i'm doing ok and then mess something else up haha.
__________________
98 Cobra
Current Mods:
MMR Intake Spacer, Sniper Tuned 93 Octane, 4.10 Gears, JLT Cold Air Intake, BBK LTs, O/R Shorty H-pipe, Flowmasters, Short Throw Shifter (not sure which brand), 03 Cobra rims: 255/40/17 Front 315/40/17 Rear, Dark a** illegal tint. Saving up for the honda sticker purchase, haha
You probably can. A Self porting is not an easy task.
You will need a number of tools. However, I am not versed in self porting, so, I would not know what tools exactly you would need.
If you want, check out SVTP for some how-to's on porting heads. I will try and dig something up for you.
Good luck man.
__________________
2003 10th Anni Torch Red Cobra 462 RWHP 486 RWTQ SAE
Fluidyne Heat Exchanger
H&R Springs
K&N FIPK
Mac O/R Prochamber and Borla Stinger C/B
BF 2.76 Pulley
LDC Chicago HCM
Many more mods
when i pull mustang motors . i pull the trans out then the motor makes it so much easier. when you going back in put the motior in first the slide the trans in from the bottom
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company