What's the better SVT platform?
#1
What's the better SVT platform?
...can of worms I know. Considering the 94-95 or the 96-98, what is the better Cobra platform for the following application?
Caveats:
Obviously I am not talking about or concerned with the body & chassis.
300rw and not anymore.
SCCA AutoX racing so RPM Powerband and weight distribution is what is important.
Caveats:
Obviously I am not talking about or concerned with the body & chassis.
300rw and not anymore.
SCCA AutoX racing so RPM Powerband and weight distribution is what is important.
#2
...can of worms I know. Considering the 94-95 or the 96-98, what is the better Cobra platform for the following application?
Caveats:
Obviously I am not talking about or concerned with the body & chassis.
300rw and not anymore.
SCCA AutoX racing so RPM Powerband and weight distribution is what is important.
Caveats:
Obviously I am not talking about or concerned with the body & chassis.
300rw and not anymore.
SCCA AutoX racing so RPM Powerband and weight distribution is what is important.
They're virtually identical as far as weight distribution goes. Don't quote me, but I believe they are within a few pounds of each other at around 56% front and 44% rear.
Now the 5.0 is going to be much cheaper/easier to work on then the 4v 4.6. On the flip side, the 4.6 is faster in stock form, and will respond better to simple bolt ons. The 4.6 produces better power then the 5.0 in the higher rpms, while the 5.0 makes better low end torque. You mentioned you'll be doing autox, I would go with the 5.0 if thats the case. Low end torque is better suited for autox.
#5
I own a 5.0 and a 4.6 both at one point had stock Cobra Motors and I can tell you stock for stock the 5.0 pulls like a beast down low. So I'd vote 5.0 for auto crossing. It's also easier to get a 5.0 to 300 rhwp NA than it is a 4.6L.
If you wanna stay with mostly Ford parts for the 5.0 you will have to:
Remove the stock GT-40 heads they just don't flow well enough.
Remove the stock Cobra Cam, it just doesn't flow well enough.
Port the upper/lower GT-40 intakes, this will make them flow nearly as well as some entry level aftermarket brands.
Add in a 70mm throttle body, this TB is the optimal size for power/torque for the 5.0.
Add in GT-40X series heads. Flow much better than stock iron GT-40s.
Use stud bolt head bolts, these work better with keeping aluminum heads seated to the iron block.
Use a Steeda #19 cam and keep the stock 1.7 roller rockers.
Remove the cats on the car and change out the exhaust to 2.5" all the way back and put your choice of mufflers, Magnaflow makes the most rwhp on 5.0s.
Remove the stock clutch and add in a Centerforce clutch.
Remove stock flywheel and add in an aluminum flywheel.
Remove stock driveshaft and add in Ford Racing aluminum flywheel.
Remove stock rear gears and add in 3.73s (great for auto x while still maintaining control) 3.55s are also nice and adds in a little more safety room.
Doing all this will bump you up to approx 280-290 rwhp without tuning. If you can find somebody to tune the motor you could probably get it right at 300 rwhp.
Also the aluminum lighting in the drive train doesn't do too much, but when doing auto x, every little advantage you have makes a difference and in the long haul your drive train being over 20lbs lighter will make a difference. The stock driveshaft weighs a ton, I can pick the aluminum one up easily with just one hand. The stock one I can lift with one hand but not nearly as easily. The flywheel is only about 3-5lbs of mass loss, but still helps.
If you wanna stay with mostly Ford parts for the 5.0 you will have to:
Remove the stock GT-40 heads they just don't flow well enough.
Remove the stock Cobra Cam, it just doesn't flow well enough.
Port the upper/lower GT-40 intakes, this will make them flow nearly as well as some entry level aftermarket brands.
Add in a 70mm throttle body, this TB is the optimal size for power/torque for the 5.0.
Add in GT-40X series heads. Flow much better than stock iron GT-40s.
Use stud bolt head bolts, these work better with keeping aluminum heads seated to the iron block.
Use a Steeda #19 cam and keep the stock 1.7 roller rockers.
Remove the cats on the car and change out the exhaust to 2.5" all the way back and put your choice of mufflers, Magnaflow makes the most rwhp on 5.0s.
Remove the stock clutch and add in a Centerforce clutch.
Remove stock flywheel and add in an aluminum flywheel.
Remove stock driveshaft and add in Ford Racing aluminum flywheel.
Remove stock rear gears and add in 3.73s (great for auto x while still maintaining control) 3.55s are also nice and adds in a little more safety room.
Doing all this will bump you up to approx 280-290 rwhp without tuning. If you can find somebody to tune the motor you could probably get it right at 300 rwhp.
Also the aluminum lighting in the drive train doesn't do too much, but when doing auto x, every little advantage you have makes a difference and in the long haul your drive train being over 20lbs lighter will make a difference. The stock driveshaft weighs a ton, I can pick the aluminum one up easily with just one hand. The stock one I can lift with one hand but not nearly as easily. The flywheel is only about 3-5lbs of mass loss, but still helps.
Last edited by jthorn9; 03-26-2011 at 12:12 AM.
#7
might as well jump to the 99 for the IRS lol, I'd go 96-98 if its narrowed between the two, some bolt ons and you are damn near 300rw, also, more RPMs ftw. IIRC the 5.0 doesn't rev as high as the 4valve. Or go 99, you can hit 300rw with bolt ons and have an IRS.
#8
I would go with the 94-95. Since you're just going to build it for autox theres no need to spend extra money on a newer car. Plus the 5.0 is already lighter and it still has just as much room as the other cars to trim weight. Also, an h/c/i on the 5.0 should get you right around your power goals. On top of that, the 5.0s are a peice of cake to work on.
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