==Supercharger Project Advice Needed==
08-21-2016, 01:56 AM
#61
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,149
Met a guy with a Shelby with less power than mine that ran much faster, so I suspect it takes a lot of practice to hook up that much H.P. If you are going to be running it hard with big tires think about stronger axles. I stick with stock tires to protect the stock axles! My thing is from 35 to 110, or so, on an open road! I had a little "Ricer" want to race me today, but I haven't raced since I almost "bit the dust" racing in 1959! Don't street race!
08-21-2016, 10:35 AM
#62
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 69
I get challenged all the time and it's hard to resist. I even changed my plate to 'BAITCAR' because of it!
If I can get the car to 12.0 with the new super installed, I would be happy for now. I'm hoping the new rear wheel setup will help. The MT Street Comp tires I'm running all the way around just are good for everyday driving and I did okay for stock power at the strip. But with the added power, I think they are slipping too much and causing the traction control to kick in too much.
I also plan to experiment with tire pressure when I get the new tires. A chart on the MT website recommends 12 lbs based on GVW (over 3,000 lbs) and wheel diameter (29"). So I plan to start with about 18 lbs and work my way down. I will also look for the bulge as you suggested.
Hopefully others in the forum will have some suggestions also
If I can get the car to 12.0 with the new super installed, I would be happy for now. I'm hoping the new rear wheel setup will help. The MT Street Comp tires I'm running all the way around just are good for everyday driving and I did okay for stock power at the strip. But with the added power, I think they are slipping too much and causing the traction control to kick in too much.
I also plan to experiment with tire pressure when I get the new tires. A chart on the MT website recommends 12 lbs based on GVW (over 3,000 lbs) and wheel diameter (29"). So I plan to start with about 18 lbs and work my way down. I will also look for the bulge as you suggested.
Hopefully others in the forum will have some suggestions also
08-21-2016, 05:26 PM
#63
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Anchorage, AK
Posts: 987
Wow Mr D. Beautiful wife and happy to hear you two are still together and have enjoyed your Mustangs over the years. My wife gets motion sick easily and is not into fast cars. So I gets my car kicks with a couple other muscle cars gear-heads every Thursday nite at the local strip and every other Saturday at Cars&Coffee.
Anyway, I took your advice and went with the Roush super. However, I took the $995 warranty dollars and applied it to the 727 kit. Hard to resist getting more power under the hood! But since mine is manual, I am having severe problems getting off the line and thru 2nd gear at the drag strip. Believe it or not, I ran 1/10 of a second better (12.93) without the supercharger and a 93 octane DiabloSport tune. The end top speed is about 8mph faster, but best time so far is 13.1. It takes me about half the track of bogging down from the dig and crazy wheel spin after shifting to 2nd before I can get it together. Top speed was 122 vs 114. But once it hooks up, it runs like a scalded ape!
Any advice would be appreciated. I should mention that this is how the car is setup:
- staggered 20" wheels at normal pressure (31lbs); Mickey Thompson 255x35front / 275x35rear
- Eibach ProKit lowering springs (1")
- Driveshaft Shop 800hp half shafts
- Steeda full Stop-the-Hop kit
After doing some research, I have also ordered a set of 18x10 rims and 305x45 MT ET Street R for a taller sidewall and hopefully better grip for a clutch car.
Here is some about my track experience. I launched the car at 3K using LC. All but one run was done with TC enabled. The one time I disabled it, there was hopeless wheel spin through gears 1 and 2. Generally, the car jumps off the line then bogs down severely before accelerating. Then when I shift to second, I get a lot of wheel spin. There were also times after I shift into second and it bogs down quite a bit also. But I couldn't really determine when the car would do that. I try my best to shift as close to 6K as I can.
As far as the Traction control, turn it off and learn to control the throttle, otherwise you will limit your results. Training wheels are ok just to get started, but the sooner you take them off, the sooner you will start learning to ride better.
08-21-2016, 05:39 PM
#64
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Anchorage, AK
Posts: 987
I get challenged all the time and it's hard to resist. I even changed my plate to 'BAITCAR' because of it!
If I can get the car to 12.0 with the new super installed, I would be happy for now. I'm hoping the new rear wheel setup will help. The MT Street Comp tires I'm running all the way around just are good for everyday driving and I did okay for stock power at the strip. But with the added power, I think they are slipping too much and causing the traction control to kick in too much.
I also plan to experiment with tire pressure when I get the new tires. A chart on the MT website recommends 12 lbs based on GVW (over 3,000 lbs) and wheel diameter (29"). So I plan to start with about 18 lbs and work my way down. I will also look for the bulge as you suggested.
Hopefully others in the forum will have some suggestions also
If I can get the car to 12.0 with the new super installed, I would be happy for now. I'm hoping the new rear wheel setup will help. The MT Street Comp tires I'm running all the way around just are good for everyday driving and I did okay for stock power at the strip. But with the added power, I think they are slipping too much and causing the traction control to kick in too much.
I also plan to experiment with tire pressure when I get the new tires. A chart on the MT website recommends 12 lbs based on GVW (over 3,000 lbs) and wheel diameter (29"). So I plan to start with about 18 lbs and work my way down. I will also look for the bulge as you suggested.
Hopefully others in the forum will have some suggestions also
08-21-2016, 08:07 PM
#65
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 69
Thanks for the reply AK_. Just to be clear, the car only has a tendency to bog when TC is on. When it's off, its full power when I ask for it. So I think that TC is defeating acceleration at times when I'm having so much trouble. Once I get the new tires, I will try again without TC and feel my way into the launch and shift to 2nd. I will also get a good low pressure gauge as you suggested.
I did use the recommended factory pressure for my street tires and I agree that Ford engineering should be trusted in that respect. But for the drag radials, I plan to use the MT drag specs for their tires.
I did use the recommended factory pressure for my street tires and I agree that Ford engineering should be trusted in that respect. But for the drag radials, I plan to use the MT drag specs for their tires.
08-21-2016, 09:21 PM
#66
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: California
Posts: 142
[QUOTE=Stang5v0;8556897]Thanks for the reply AK_. Just to be clear, the car only has a tendency to bog when TC is on. When it's off, its full power when I ask for it. So I think that TC is defeating acceleration at times when I'm having so much trouble. Once I get the new tires, I will try again without TC and feel my way into the launch and shift to 2nd. I will also get a good low pressure gauge as you suggested.
I did use the recommended factory pressure for my street tires and I agree that Ford engineering should be trusted in that respect. But for the drag radials, I plan to use the MT drag specs for their tires.[/QUOT
TURN THE TRACTION CONTROL OFF! I had the same problem with traction control left on makes the spark system cut off on hard acceleration which is your bog and modulated back brake pads.
I drive my roushcharged mustang with traction control off always. I use my foot to modulate the throttle. I run MT Street comps back tire is 305/35/20 and I like 25lbs to 28lbs and they stick pretty good but will still break loose if I hit the gas too much or too hard.
I do have a automatic though cant imagine trying to manage all that power and have to shift . I don't drag race though just for passing up people or if called out by ricer cars bit never tried the strip time track
I did use the recommended factory pressure for my street tires and I agree that Ford engineering should be trusted in that respect. But for the drag radials, I plan to use the MT drag specs for their tires.[/QUOT
TURN THE TRACTION CONTROL OFF! I had the same problem with traction control left on makes the spark system cut off on hard acceleration which is your bog and modulated back brake pads.
I drive my roushcharged mustang with traction control off always. I use my foot to modulate the throttle. I run MT Street comps back tire is 305/35/20 and I like 25lbs to 28lbs and they stick pretty good but will still break loose if I hit the gas too much or too hard.
I do have a automatic though cant imagine trying to manage all that power and have to shift . I don't drag race though just for passing up people or if called out by ricer cars bit never tried the strip time track
08-22-2016, 09:17 AM
#67
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 69
Thanks JC! I will try again this week with TC off. I tried to launch it one time outside the track without TC on, but it spun so much in first gear I stopped. That's way I decided to keep it on at the track. I have the MT Street Comp tires like yours. But even at the track, it was still difficult to keep them from spinning in the first two gears. However, I am going to take your advice this week since my drag radials may not be here in time. I will make a couple passes without the TC and try my best to control the throttle with my foot. If If get any better on the street tires, it will only help me when I get the new ones.
As far as the ricers, I show them no mercy when ever one attempts a challenge on the street. But much safe and less risky to do it at the strip. Sometimes I will even wait to line up next to one to ensure I run against it. I have so much power now that even with problems with my start, I still fly past them at about 1,000 feet. Except for my buddy that has a GTR. I can't do much with him yet. He's running 11.4s most of the time. Notice I say yet :-). But you should get your car to the strip and try it out...I think you would like it.
As far as the ricers, I show them no mercy when ever one attempts a challenge on the street. But much safe and less risky to do it at the strip. Sometimes I will even wait to line up next to one to ensure I run against it. I have so much power now that even with problems with my start, I still fly past them at about 1,000 feet. Except for my buddy that has a GTR. I can't do much with him yet. He's running 11.4s most of the time. Notice I say yet :-). But you should get your car to the strip and try it out...I think you would like it.
07-23-2017, 04:20 AM
#68
Supercharger project advice
I've been looking at superchargers since October. Right when I think I'm ready to buy, I read something or see a youtube video that changes my mind back and forth. My plan is to purchase a supercharger kit (either tuner or complete) which I may or may not install myself based on complexity. I'm planning to do the upgrade this April and need some advice. I have a 2015 GT, manual trans. I am even more committed now since I was humiliated by a new CTS-V sedan on a half-mile stretch of highway last weekend 
. My goal is to get as close to 700HP as I can get without changing internal engine parts. 650 or above would be nice. I am not trying to build a track car. But its a once or twice a week driver that I want to have stompin power when I choose to use it. Cost is a factor, but less of an issue if I can reach my goals.
I know there are a lot of factors involved, but here are the major points I've learned so far based on my requirements:
-Generally, I shouldn't exceed 12lbs of boost if I don't want to change internal parts
-If I'm only looking for HP, a ProCharger system may yield higher numbers than some other more complex blowers (i.e. Roush, Whipple) since it uses less engine power to run it--they do tend to be cheaper as well
-I know a custom tune will be necessary either through a supplied tuner or through my performance garage based on the system I choose
Here are my questions:
-If its true about the max boost, which system(s) is(are) best to get the most HP/torque and fastest acceleration? (let's say from a rolling start)
-Is it true that a Procharger, or similar centrifugal system, can produce a better boost/hp ratio than the others, like a roots style for instance?
-If I'm able to achieve my HP goal, will my mostly stock GT even be able get the power to the ground without a lot to wheel spin?
-Any comments/preferences on tuning with a provided tuner or using a local, qualified shop?
One thing I might add is that I'm also considering having 1-7/8" Kooks long tube headers installed as part of the upgrade but it depends what I have to spend supercharger.
Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
. My goal is to get as close to 700HP as I can get without changing internal engine parts. 650 or above would be nice. I am not trying to build a track car. But its a once or twice a week driver that I want to have stompin power when I choose to use it. Cost is a factor, but less of an issue if I can reach my goals.I know there are a lot of factors involved, but here are the major points I've learned so far based on my requirements:
-Generally, I shouldn't exceed 12lbs of boost if I don't want to change internal parts
-If I'm only looking for HP, a ProCharger system may yield higher numbers than some other more complex blowers (i.e. Roush, Whipple) since it uses less engine power to run it--they do tend to be cheaper as well
-I know a custom tune will be necessary either through a supplied tuner or through my performance garage based on the system I choose
Here are my questions:
-If its true about the max boost, which system(s) is(are) best to get the most HP/torque and fastest acceleration? (let's say from a rolling start)
-Is it true that a Procharger, or similar centrifugal system, can produce a better boost/hp ratio than the others, like a roots style for instance?
-If I'm able to achieve my HP goal, will my mostly stock GT even be able get the power to the ground without a lot to wheel spin?
-Any comments/preferences on tuning with a provided tuner or using a local, qualified shop?
One thing I might add is that I'm also considering having 1-7/8" Kooks long tube headers installed as part of the upgrade but it depends what I have to spend supercharger.
Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
07-23-2017, 04:33 AM
#69
Supercharger project advice
I have a 2015 S550 GT, the stock internals are said to handle around 800+ due to the forged internals and yes this engine is stronger then the previous 11-14 GT.. I have a Roush phase 1 kit stock pulley (for now) although I use the SCT Tuner and Matt Alderman of ID MOTORSPORTS tuned the car on the DYNO we made 611 RWHP.. yes that's right with just the exhaust stock manifolds.. I will be changing to a smaller pulley, 80mm and the fuel pump booster from the phase 2 kit and upgrading the clutch... as far as wheel spin goes I've changed from the performance pack wheels and tires and use a 20" bronze VOLK TE37 Ultra Light wheels and NITTO NT05 tires once they are warm doesn't spin much... the stock Pirelli tires spin through third.. The procharger is also a great system its all in what you want I can only speak for the TVS VMP BLOWER... It builds boost fast and efficiently so good luck with your build no matter what the new chassis will handle it!!
