Stang5v0

thats what i thought and that's what i would expect. with AT off, i should be able to burn the rubber off if on the throttle hard in first and second. a reputable Ford dealership did the install and from what i've seen, they do a lot of them. i've been told by them on several occasions that many of their cars are running mid-11s. but i can't get any names from them except for the one guy that ran the 10.9. apparently they stay in touch with him. i met him and one other guy at the track and both had their installs done at that location. one is a manual '15 and and the other a manual '16. the '16 has a phase 1 670 kit and 12.7 has been his best time on nitto summer tires. the last time we were out, he said he noticed bogging early on in his runs. maybe he was just paying more attention after i told him about mine. the '15 is the one that did 10.9. its an upgraded phase 1 670 kit with a 79mm pulley from vmp, 56lb/hr gt500 fuel injectors from the '13-'14 model, and tuned by Palm Beach Dyno. he's using the same mickey thompson ET Street R 305x45 drag radials that i have but on a 17" rim. so his diameter is closer to stock than mine and the rev per mile setting. i would've bought 17" rims but i couldn't find them anywhere. i did make a mistake by not getting a 40 aspect ratio in that tire but you already know the story.

i did read about the correct gap for the spark plugs in the installation manual. but haven't checked them yet. i may do that tomorrow. also, from the mickey thompson site, i've deflated the drag radials to the recommended 14.5 psi per their chart. but i cant tell you if they hook up better or not with more/less air or even if they are any better/worse than my street tires which are MT Street Comp like yours. i would love to be able to tell you the difference but cant until this issue is resolved. i did call MT to ask if okay to deflate the Street Comps for the strip and was told yes and to use the same pressure chart as for the ET Street R.

i just think something was missed during my install or something needs adjusted in the tune. just don't want to keep driving all the way over there. i wish they would have me do a data log or pay for a dyno pull somewhere so the results can be analyzed.

jc5057

Yeah I don't think rev per mile is your problem. Even when my rev per mile was off after new calibration I did not have any bog. I just had no torque. After rev per mile was set power and torque 100 percent back. If you recalibration was done right from dealership with any doubts I would say something is wrong in install for sure. Faulty spark plugs or not gapped or worn out is where I'd start 1st. As I read that's what you think going to do. Check for loose or leaking vacum lines. Is that all pans out then have to have dealert ship look at and do maybe data log to roush. I know it sucks as myself have no faith in the dealership just bad experience in my past with them. But keep me updated if you find anything or get her fixed

darkmach1

Had a change of heart last minute and came across a deal on a Stage 2 procharger tuner kit i couldnt pass up. Gonna buy a return style fuel setup and injectors to go E85.

jc5057

So right now you are natural aspirated ? The procharger that the centrifigal style right? I think all the Roush issues made you change mind or just a good deal money wise ? A guy on Craigslist here in california has a whole procharger phase 1 kit for sale for 4 grand says the tune blew his engine up and he is done with it. I find that hard to believe as I thought the stock tunes are safe

darkmach1

I didnt want the roush..... to many things to upgrade to make it "solid", VMP heat exchanger, VMP throttle body, retune at least. Even then the VMP blower still outflows it by 18%. But the VMP kit is over 7k easily. The whipple is easily 8k. Didn't want to pay so much. Procharger stage 2 has an independent drive for the blower, if I eat the belt I can still drive the car. It's basically 100% bolt on, no need to pull manifold and store it at home like roush and whipple. Air to air intercooler so no need to worry about intercooler pumps. IATs are very low with centris and I live in Florida so that's important. Drives like stock which is important for the wife unless you really get on it. And I can easily swap blowers to D1, or F1 series blowers if I decide to go for 900+. Best of all it was close to half the price of a whipple.

jc5057

Let me know how you like the procharger when all done and driving. I almost went that route with a procharger instead of the roush phaset 1 the reason I did not because the procharger is not smog legal here in california does not come with the carb sticker. So went roush phase 1 for smog legal. Now after a new vmp heat exchanger and new calibration and rev per mile set it is finally good for me. It was a headache working the bugs out. If I did not have to contend with smog crap I would upgrade to the roush phase 727 kit

That is nice about procharger though bolts on and if belt breaks still runs like stock. If I recall you keep your stock spark plugs as well and no intercooler pump to worry about.

Yeah the IAT on positive displacement are hard to keep down with the roush crappy heat exchanger no fans . Come summer time I may try the Snow performance water meth for IAT and see how I like it

darkmach1

I'll post here and let y'all know. Yea it has its cons, not as much low end vs a PD blower (can be fixed by going to a wastegate), couplers which can lead to leaks. It somewhat loud which some may not like and also the smog aspect. I'll be going E85 with it so I'm getting a return style fuel setup.

jc5057

Hey the best part of the procharger is you don't have to grind your engine away for install and splice wiring for throttle body connectors like the roush . Took me 3 days to install the roush the procharger will be like 5 hours hardest part is just removing front fascia but just watch you tube videos . As for bottom end the 5.0 has plenty until you hit boost at 3500 rpm. Should make launching easier then mine as there is less power down low which on the roush can make you spin when not wanted believe me ha ha ask me how I know

darkmach1

Didn't know electrical splicing was needed on the Roush. Dunno if I want to tackle the install yet. I'll read the instructions. Still, help will be needed for the fuel mods. A 3k stall will surely wake up the low end lol.

jc5057

Those intrested i picked up these blillet supercharged badges that are molded to fit with the 5.0 thought id add some flare seems how i did not want stripes