Whipple or Roush
03-02-2017, 09:39 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Florida
Posts: 6
Whipple or Roush
S550 GT performance pack. I am seriously considering a supercharger (90% sure). Was only looking for a roush but the whipple looks amazing (especially the torque...wow).
What's everybody think...roush or whipple.
BTW- not doing the track or strip...this is pretty much my dream car/garage kept weekend car. I just know once I put on a supercharger (and exhaust)...engine is done for good
,
What's everybody think...roush or whipple.
BTW- not doing the track or strip...this is pretty much my dream car/garage kept weekend car. I just know once I put on a supercharger (and exhaust)...engine is done for good
,
03-03-2017, 07:58 AM
#3
Former Sponsor
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 218
Everything has its place, most all kits offered today are quality pieces. You really need to look at what you want to do with your car. The Twin screw (whipple) and centrifugal (procharger/vortech) are going to make impressive dyno numbers, they really shine up top. With this they tend to be a popular choice with guys who enjoy drag racing at the track. We use a TVS (Twin Vortices Series) rotor pack in our head units.
The nice thing with the TVS rotor pack is that it makes great torque down low, this is going to make it especially fun for the stop light to stop light type of driving most weekend, nice weather cars are used for. They also generate a fraction of the heat a twin screw is going to make. You'll get a couple nice dyno pulls on the twin screw setup and its going to start heat soaking. Typically you're not going to make 1/4 mile pulls on the street, probably not even 1/8th depending on how populated your area is and with that you're never going to use the potential of the twin screw/centri setups. I find most of our weekend driver customers love that hit they get early from the TVS blower.
Based on what you've said you want to do with the car i personally think the TVS is the way to go for you, if you have any specific questions let me know, i can speak with you as well if you'd like.
Thanks
The nice thing with the TVS rotor pack is that it makes great torque down low, this is going to make it especially fun for the stop light to stop light type of driving most weekend, nice weather cars are used for. They also generate a fraction of the heat a twin screw is going to make. You'll get a couple nice dyno pulls on the twin screw setup and its going to start heat soaking. Typically you're not going to make 1/4 mile pulls on the street, probably not even 1/8th depending on how populated your area is and with that you're never going to use the potential of the twin screw/centri setups. I find most of our weekend driver customers love that hit they get early from the TVS blower.
Based on what you've said you want to do with the car i personally think the TVS is the way to go for you, if you have any specific questions let me know, i can speak with you as well if you'd like.
Thanks
03-03-2017, 09:30 AM
#4
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: LA
Posts: 1,320
Everything has its place, most all kits offered today are quality pieces. You really need to look at what you want to do with your car. The Twin screw (whipple) and centrifugal (procharger/vortech) are going to make impressive dyno numbers, they really shine up top. With this they tend to be a popular choice with guys who enjoy drag racing at the track. We use a TVS (Twin Vortices Series) rotor pack in our head units.
The nice thing with the TVS rotor pack is that it makes great torque down low, this is going to make it especially fun for the stop light to stop light type of driving most weekend, nice weather cars are used for. They also generate a fraction of the heat a twin screw is going to make. You'll get a couple nice dyno pulls on the twin screw setup and its going to start heat soaking. Typically you're not going to make 1/4 mile pulls on the street, probably not even 1/8th depending on how populated your area is and with that you're never going to use the potential of the twin screw/centri setups. I find most of our weekend driver customers love that hit they get early from the TVS blower.
Based on what you've said you want to do with the car i personally think the TVS is the way to go for you, if you have any specific questions let me know, i can speak with you as well if you'd like.
Thanks
The nice thing with the TVS rotor pack is that it makes great torque down low, this is going to make it especially fun for the stop light to stop light type of driving most weekend, nice weather cars are used for. They also generate a fraction of the heat a twin screw is going to make. You'll get a couple nice dyno pulls on the twin screw setup and its going to start heat soaking. Typically you're not going to make 1/4 mile pulls on the street, probably not even 1/8th depending on how populated your area is and with that you're never going to use the potential of the twin screw/centri setups. I find most of our weekend driver customers love that hit they get early from the TVS blower.
Based on what you've said you want to do with the car i personally think the TVS is the way to go for you, if you have any specific questions let me know, i can speak with you as well if you'd like.
Thanks
03-03-2017, 09:57 AM
#5
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location:
Posts: 1,799
Dynos have been posted and shown that at the same PSI, the whipple and Roush are within the error margin of the dyno when it comes to torque and power down low. The whipple has a decently high ceiling while still maintaining efficiency, at some point the size of the Roush will begin to catch up with it. But it is a solid blower.
Unfortunately I cannot see myself getting a Roush blower thru a dealer or new, only way is if I went with a used kit that I could add my own tuning or a VMP kit. Can cannot put that much money into a vehicle to make it more fun and end up with, what most would agree it's a tuning disaster. I wanted a turn key vehicle that didn't suffer from IATs/heat soaking. Whipples and TVSs are solid, they just need auxiliary systems to keep their temps in checks, (I.e. Fans, intercooler pumps, cooling water systems). I decided to go Procharger, because I saved money, decent chunk of money, all is bolt in and all that's needed is a compressor and an Air/air heat exchanger. If I want more power I can always go up to a D or even F series blowers. If I shred a belt, which can happen to any blower setup, my car continues to drive me home as if it never happened.
So if you want a good turnkey PD blower my choices would be in this order...
A) VMP stage 2 (0 issues here)
B) Whipple stage 2 (stage 1 keeps stock TB and that's freaking ridiculous, only problem is minor belt squeak and tensioner issues in some kits)
C) Roush (nice kit if you're into the whole warranty thing but you will pay for this warranty and tuning wise its been almost 3 years and they are still buggy)
Hope that helped.
Unfortunately I cannot see myself getting a Roush blower thru a dealer or new, only way is if I went with a used kit that I could add my own tuning or a VMP kit. Can cannot put that much money into a vehicle to make it more fun and end up with, what most would agree it's a tuning disaster. I wanted a turn key vehicle that didn't suffer from IATs/heat soaking. Whipples and TVSs are solid, they just need auxiliary systems to keep their temps in checks, (I.e. Fans, intercooler pumps, cooling water systems). I decided to go Procharger, because I saved money, decent chunk of money, all is bolt in and all that's needed is a compressor and an Air/air heat exchanger. If I want more power I can always go up to a D or even F series blowers. If I shred a belt, which can happen to any blower setup, my car continues to drive me home as if it never happened.
So if you want a good turnkey PD blower my choices would be in this order...
A) VMP stage 2 (0 issues here)
B) Whipple stage 2 (stage 1 keeps stock TB and that's freaking ridiculous, only problem is minor belt squeak and tensioner issues in some kits)
C) Roush (nice kit if you're into the whole warranty thing but you will pay for this warranty and tuning wise its been almost 3 years and they are still buggy)
Hope that helped.
03-05-2017, 10:00 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Florida
Posts: 6
Kyle@Roush - great answer I appreciate your expertise and input (as I do everyone). I noticed on watching a few u-tube videos on dyno runs, the torque jumps up right off the bat (that is awesome). However, the advertised HP is 670, dyno runs that I've seen on youtube have been running the 550hp range. 120 HP from flywheel to rear wheel seems about 50 HP to much. Is there something I am missing?
03-06-2017, 07:47 AM
#7
Former Sponsor
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 218
Correct, the TVS is a monster out of the hole, as for power we use an industry standard of a 15% drivetrain loss. IE 727 HP kit should be roughly 622 wheel. Phase 1 should come out somewhere in the mid to upper 500's.
03-06-2017, 09:23 AM
#8
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Hackettstown, N.J.
Posts: 749
Kyle@Roush - great answer I appreciate your expertise and input (as I do everyone). I noticed on watching a few u-tube videos on dyno runs, the torque jumps up right off the bat (that is awesome). However, the advertised HP is 670, dyno runs that I've seen on youtube have been running the 550hp range. 120 HP from flywheel to rear wheel seems about 50 HP to much. Is there something I am missing?
Dyno's like cars will vary, but you will loose hp between the motor & the wheels.
The old standard loss #'s were 15 % manual, 20 % auto.
My 14, factory rated @ 662, put 585 to the tires, 11.7 % loss. ( bone stock )
.
Last edited by 1 Alibi 2; 03-06-2017 at 09:25 AM.
03-06-2017, 10:19 AM
#9
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location:
Posts: 1,799
03-15-2017, 07:54 PM
#10
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Florida
Posts: 6
What is the boost difference or ratings between the stage 1 and stage 2 roush?
Doesn't the stage 2 void the warranty?
Also, this is my dream car I plan on keeping and then passing on (when I'm gone),
do I want to boost it that much? I don't want to overstress engine/drivetrain parts.