budget racer build LT1?
#11
I wouldn't go that route..
There is a local (89 or 97 would know him better) with an "LT1" Camaro. Has a 150K LQ4 out of a van in it. Head studs with a turbo cam, stock bottom he said. Made a turbo kit for it and is running mid 6's in the 1/8.
There is a local (89 or 97 would know him better) with an "LT1" Camaro. Has a 150K LQ4 out of a van in it. Head studs with a turbo cam, stock bottom he said. Made a turbo kit for it and is running mid 6's in the 1/8.
#13
The nice thing about the LT1 cars is they can be had on the very cheap. Add a couple grand of H/C/I and you'll out perform LS1 cars for about the same investment. Technology is a wonderful thing and an LS3 is going to out perform a ls1 which out performs the LT1 yada yada yada. But all of those motors have decent cubic inchs working in their favor.
I feel better working on a 17 year old motor with 90s technology than the latest and greatest motor.. something goes wrong I can just replace it or get an entire new motor for $800 or less..
The 7.5" rears can hold some power, it's how the power is applied that seems to break them, hence the manual guys having 90% of the failures from clutch dumps, hard shifting, etc. Autos apply a steady pressure once launched and are just easier on them. I've made quite a few 11 second 1.6-1.8 60s with no issues, no whining, etc. IMO, stick with the stock rear until/if it starts whining or breaks. Moser and strange rears are expensive.
On that stall you need to pick your cam and gear first, then have a reputable converter builder match the best stall speed/str for you. Most guys just run out and buy the biggest damn stall they can thinking its going to be that much faster and it's not. I would be sure and get a locking converter however. My trap speed shows lower than normal due to not having one. Doesn't effect the ET, but still.
If you want something that idles like the hotcam I'd go with an EPS or one of the GT cams. I've heard the hotcam isn't very effective for whatever reason.
On that stall you need to pick your cam and gear first, then have a reputable converter builder match the best stall speed/str for you. Most guys just run out and buy the biggest damn stall they can thinking its going to be that much faster and it's not. I would be sure and get a locking converter however. My trap speed shows lower than normal due to not having one. Doesn't effect the ET, but still.
If you want something that idles like the hotcam I'd go with an EPS or one of the GT cams. I've heard the hotcam isn't very effective for whatever reason.
Do motive gears generally whine on those cars? I already have a member pm'ing me about some for $100. That and a driveshaft for $145.
I'll still have to read up on the best stall for those cars to match the powerband. I learned my my Charger that having it lock up is a major factor in how hard it shifts into the next gear at WOT, as well as having it drive normal on the street and not slipping so much. I dropped 0.2 alone with just locking it up with a Mopar TCM!
If I can get some decent gears, a converter and driveshaft I think I'll be pretty content with how it runs, considering it weighs 1000lbs. lighter than my Charger.. no way is it gonna run the same numbers without a little more into it but It should still be plenty of fun
#14
80k miles and nitrous!?
#15
WTF?! I have been in contact with my insurance company and due to my past, they say the insurance is gonna be $950 on top of my $700 on my Charger every six months.. hmmm.. damn.. there goes that project )-:
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