Originally Posted by mustang99v6

Hello all. Great write up ryan. I hear you on the washing hands/pics part. That's why I haven't done a write up yet. I think you left a little info out though. When you lower the car and inch or more, you need to change the length of your sway bar endlinks. It's also a great time to switch to urethane bushings(if that's your style). Kill 2 birds with one stone, go to autozone and buy energy suspension endlinks. They come with red urethane already on them. I bought the same links from an online retailer and had to buy a bushing kit separate. cost twice as much as the local components. Only diff. is that you just need to measure the local ones for the length you need vs. the guy on the phone gives you a part number.
For troy and others, a bit of info.
Always cut springs from the dead coil= Top. cut the bottom and you just bought yourself a high performance 1911 wood wagon.
Don't buy adjustable camber bolts unless you are planning on going 1 3/4 or lower, sometimes 2". I'm 1 3/4 and didn't need them, but it really depends on each persons' car, they run very different, but as a rule anything 1 1/2 or less doesn't need them at all. (BTW, I'm not talking about camber plates, there are bolts that replace the top bolt that holds your strut to the spindle and have a lobe to adjust the degree and cost 30-40 bucks)
To address camber plates, You generally don't need those unless you are going full coil-over. There is a mod(not really a mod, it should be in most every local alignment computers info) that you drill out the post in the strut mount plate and slide it around. It's kind of like you car came factory with camber plates... Amazing!!!! and free.
+1 for what ryan said about changing struts/shocks with springs. I did springs(eibach pro kit) and bought new monroes. Now I have 2003 cobra bilsteins all around. Long story short. Brand new monroes blew out within months and I had to pay to have it redone with proper parts. Nothing beats doing it right the first time.