goz40

I did mention I remove radiator cap and warmed engine. (I will also note my driveway is on a incline so the radiator cap is at a higher level than the thermosat) when the thermosat opened and the coolant level dropped I refilled radiator to proper level. This is also an alternative way to purge air from system if you rather not mess with the bolt on top of the thermosat housing. It still overheat and lost heat this morning? I also check the fluid levels a few hours later and they were fine. At this point I did remove the bolt in the thermosat housingand poured antifreeze directly into it until it flowed out of the top of the radiator (cap removed). this did not fix the problem still overheated and lost heat on ride home from work.

MantaDreams

you do not remove the bolt and fill it there. you loosen the bolt and continue to fill the radiator until coolant comes out the side hole of the bolt.
that pushes the air out.
do this with the heater on highest temperature setting and the engine running - slightly warm but not hot, warm enough to open the stat.

I dont know what else to say that hasnt been said already... its just the order that you accomplish it. You may choose to skip all the simple stuff and go back to the engine and the heads, but I wouldn't do it without being otherwise convinced by seeing steam or having the exhaust sampled.

engine coolant systems, next to brakes, are one of the automobile's most basic, primitive systems that have hardly changed over time. The "water pump" is the only device that can move the coolant consistently. if you're not convinced that coolant is circulating, the pump needs replacing (a pump does not have to weep to be bad).
the radiator and the heater core accomplish the same function - heat transfer. but the car should run cool or not overheat while idling and the heater off. if it starts running hot when sitting still but cools off when driving, your fan is not working.
some engine block designs are designed whereby air pockets are formed, which happens with these year models. doesn't matter if the rad fill neck is higher than the stat or block cause its the stat housing at a high point, the coolant in and out are lower than the housing.

I hope things eventually work out. I would like to know what the fix is if and when it gets healthy again.

goz40

Hello All,

I did try loosening the bolt on top of the thermosat housing this morning before my commute to work. I removed the radiator cap and started the car and had the heater set to hot max temp and coolant came out of the bleeder holes in the side of the bolt. I did tighten the bolt by hand and let the engine warm up. After it warmed up I loosen the bolt with the radiator cap off and coolant sprayed out. I hand tighten the bolt and I filled the radiator (only needed alittle to fill) and put the cap back on. I loosened the bolt again and this time only hot air and a coolant mist came out the bleeder holes. I let it go for a minute or two and than the coolant flowed out in a stream. I tightened the bolt hand tight and let the car run for a few minutes. I than loosened the bolt again and hot air and coolant mist sprayed out again at first. After out 30 seconds coolant sprayed out in a stream. This time I hand tighten the bolt and than tightened the bolt with a wrench until fully tightened. I than relieved the pressure in the radiator by removing the radiator cap. I filled the radiator to the proper level. So off to work I went and the engine did not overheat and the heater blew hot air the 30 miles to work. ( temp gauge needle on O in normal once the engine heated up). I was glad and relieved the hole day at work. I checked the coolant level a few hours later and everything was fine. I left work 6 hours later and traveled another 20 miles and everything was fine. I was there about 2 hours and started my trip back home. Now I traveled 4o miles and had to make another stop. I was about a mile or so from this stop and I had got on it alittle bit and then the heater started blowing cold air and the engine temp started to rise to about the A in normal. (I said to myself what the heck is going on and a few more words but I will leave them out of this post.) I went into the store and was in there about 45 minutes and started on the rest of the way home. (about 10 miles left) The engine warmed up to the O in normal and I turned on the heat and it was blowing hot. About 2 miles into the trip the heater started blowing cold and the engine temp started to rise. So I turned off the heat and the engine temp took a mile or two to come back down. I turned back on the heat and it blew hot air. Then it started blowing cold again and the engine temp started increasing again. I turned off the heat and watch the engine temp decrease and I was home. I checked the fluid level a couple hours later after it cooled down a bit. Overflow is 3/4 full was about 1/2 way full this morning. Radiator level was 4 inches below the radiator cap opening. Thats 4 inches below what is was this morning. Very discourage at this point please let me know your thoughts. Thanks again for you help.

shawnb

i'm having the same problem with a 95 mustang. it has 50000 miles on it. i've put 3 thremostates in. it'll run for about 4 miles temp won't move, no heat. then the temp will go way up then come back down to normal. then i'll have heat. plenty of water. but it seems like i don't have enough water. i keep bleeding out of the top bleeder valve. it doesn't over heat.
any suggestion for help?

MantaDreams

hi. me again. gee I read my posts again and although I might be right, I was probably a bit arrogant. sorry.

in one of the heater hoses, there is a special in-line restricter. from the outside all you see is a little button, like a rivet head on the surface of the outside of the hose. it might have some sort-of flow function.

other than that if you are losing coolant, find where you are losing the coolant. if you are losing coolant and can't see where it is going it is likely a head prob.
good luck.

JKs95stang

I would have to agree also at this point. If you have bled the T housing bolt for air pockets and still having problems, it's more than likely a head gasket problem AGAIN. The last thing I would check is the waterpump for circulation. With all that you described, I would say the waterpump is fine but it's worth a shot. I have a 95 3.8 as well and yes, my head gasket has been replaced before so it is a known problems with 3.8's. If you have the knowlege to do it yourself, I would recommend that as it will be a whole lot cheaper. If you have shop do it, very expensive. Good Luck! Enjoy!

cobra232

no the problem was because of excessive passages. sometime in 96 they changed the passages in the heads eliminating a long passage around the chamber. this with better head gaskets pretty much eliminated the problem from late96 on.

the best thing to do is get a set of at least 97+ ford MLS gaskets and 96 bolts. have the heads resurfaced and put back on. ideally the block should be decked but it's unlikely the deck is warped.

whoever did the gaslets peobably used cheap 96 bolts and cheap felpro 96 gaskets or even cheaper gaskets.

97 plus ford MLS gaskets with premium ARP heal bolts and the gaskets sprayed completely with copper gasket spray will eliominate this peoblem.

problem is too many garages don't know the correct fix and just replace everything with the parts that alowed the failure in the first place.

actually it would be cheaper and wiser to just get a 97 or 98 junkyard engine for about $400 and pay to have it put in for about $400 more. tyhe entire swap will need nothing extra and cost less than a head gasket job

cobra232

dude your way wrong here.

i have done a ton of 3.8 gaskets mostly on FWD ford 3.8's but they are the same engine except for bellhousing.

it is the headgaskets, period. most garages don't know how to eliminate the problem and just replace the gaskets with the cheapest parts available to them while charging you out the ***.

it's the gaskets. i have seen it hundreds of times

shawnb

everyone says its the head gasket. but the car runs better then it ever did. if it was a headgasket it would be running like crap.

benz660r

your losing fluid somewhere and causing air to get into the system..... if your not leaking fluid and all hoses are in good condition not crushed or bent or anything of that sort, then your loosing coolant in your heads. Best solution is to replace the gaskets with the newer ones as stated above by ryansquick6. If you disagree, then i leave you with the question of what else is left in this system to fail? We know the rad, therm, and waterpump are all functioning, hoses are good, system is purge at the start.....