V6 (1994-2004) Mustangs Technical discussions on the 3.8L and 3.9L V6 torque monsters

V6 Rear end Gears. 3.73 or 4.10

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Old 11-30-2008, 04:31 PM
  #11  
reaper2022
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Yeah, if you're quoted at more than $300 for a rear end install, go somewhere else. It generally shouldn't be more than $300, but it all depends on who's doing it and where you live, I guess.

But i was under the impression there was more of a difference in top speeds than that... I know when I ran my numbers though a gear/speed calculator, it was saying with the 3.73 I'd be at 2500rpm at 70 in 5th with the stock wheels/tires (compared to 2000 stock), but it may just be that I found a crappy calculator

And you'll be happy with the sct x3... I know I love mine

*edit: like I said, you can do it yourself with hand tools, but spacing everything requires experience/skill (or luck )... if you've never done a rear end before, I'd say it's probably a good idea to just have a shop do it for you. But I'd say search for a few how-to's on rear end gear installations... if you feel confident, go for it
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Old 12-01-2008, 08:46 AM
  #12  
v6procharged
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i would definately let a shop install it.... why not just sell that stuff and buy you an 8.8 if you plan on having power down the road lol
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Old 12-01-2008, 09:11 AM
  #13  
tx_zstang
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If you are adding some power (turbo or supercharger), the stock differential carrier and aftermarket t-lok are weak; you can break teeth on the spider gears.
I built up a 7.5 rear for 2005+ with 3.73s, but am not using it now.

Depending on your power level, a 8.8 swap may be the best overall for the money, long term.

As far as swapping the gears yourself, it's not a trivial thing that anyone can do right. It does take a couple of special tools for proper clearances and pre-load torque, and maybe pressing on/off some bearings. Otherwise its not technically hard to do. Find a local reputable shop though.

4.10s will get you up to speed faster, but will rev your engine higher on the highway. If you do lots of highway driving, I'd recommend 373s. If you do lots of city driving and just have that heavy foot and love the acceleration, go with 410s.
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Old 12-01-2008, 10:34 AM
  #14  
defconfire
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I blew my 7.5" up with just bolt-ons on a set of Michelin pilots just taking off from a stop light, I wouldn't trust them to anywhere near 300rwhp.
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Old 12-01-2008, 10:59 AM
  #15  
mustangman02232
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8.8s arent even that stronge, i blew one up in a stock mach 1, roughly ~280 rwhp

built 7.5 > stock 8.8
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Old 12-01-2008, 05:08 PM
  #16  
ooterman
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What is all including in "building up" a rear end? I have heard some terms tossed around about spindels and such but I have no idea what that means.

And is a beefed up 8.8>7.5 or 8.8=7.5.
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Old 12-01-2008, 05:19 PM
  #17  
mustangman02232
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stock 7.5 <stock 8.8 <built 7.5 <built 8.8 <9"

built would be a detroit/eaton diff, at a minimum, girdle and hardened axles wouldnt hurt either
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Old 12-01-2008, 05:58 PM
  #18  
defconfire
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+1 a 7.5 can be built stronger than an 8.8, but the 8.8 is a stronger starting point.
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Old 12-02-2008, 09:42 AM
  #19  
ooterman
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Say I was to drop a 8.8 stock rear end from a gt into my v6 (from the same generation stang of course). That would give me a stronger rear end for most upgrades and then I can beef it up some more to handle just about anything.

Correct?

Also is a tuner needed if I swap it out with a stock gt rear end? Or is there some cailbration tool needed or what?
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Old 12-02-2008, 11:23 AM
  #20  
mustangman02232
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if you build the 8.8 it will handel more then a built 7.5, but a built 7.5 should be fine for pretty much anyone on this site.

a 97 will need the speedo gear in the tranny depending on the gear ratio
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