Rear-end/rebuild HOW-TOO
03-16-2009, 10:46 PM
#1
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Beaufort,NC
Posts: 719
Rear-end/rebuild HOW-TOO
OK guys i am seen way to many posts about rear-end work.So that being said i am going to do a lil how-to.Maybe if eveyone likes it i will go and do a full how-to overhaul on the rear-ends.
Info on the rear-ends
94-98 7.5s 2.73s open diff. (28 spline)
94-98 8.8s 2.73-3.27s t-lok (28 spline)
99-04 7.5s 3.27s open diff. (28 spline)
99-04 8.8s 3.27s t-lok (28 spline)
99-04 8.8s (IN mach-1) 3.55s t-lok (28 spline)
99-04 8.8s (Corbas) IRS 3.55s t-lok (28 spline)
If your doing a 94-98 stang rear-end swap.
If you can find a 94-98 rear-end I will come to that.
From what i have found out if you get a 99-04 rear-end it will have long shafts in the housing.To fix this problem you can use you 7.5 axles and just put them in the 99-04 housing to make it the right size.
If your doing a 99-04 stang rear-end swap.
You use the 94-98 rear-end You must just change over your axles and brake system to the 94-98 8.8s.Other then that you can just bolt up a 99-04 rear-end and go.
To take out the out your rear-end out of your car:
Jack up the car on the rear or lift.
Take off the wheels and tires.
Now with the wheels off you can see and reach your brakes.
Undo your brake lines.(if your doing the rear-end swap from 94-98 to 99-04 you must reuse your brake set-up)
With brakes undone to save you rotors take them off as well.
Undone your shocks on both sides.
Now take a jack or stand and put them holding the rear-end up a lil.
Undo your 4 driveshaft bolts
Undo Your upper control arms.
At this point your rear-end will only be bolted to your lower control arms.
BE CAREFUL THE SPRINGS CAN KILL YOU IF YOU DONT WATCH THEM.
Get a extra set of hands and jack up the rear-end a lil and remove your stands from under the rear-end only.Or if you just used a jack then SLOWLY lower the control arms untill the springs are fully loose = no danager!
Unbolt the last 2 bolts one the lower control arms and drag out your old rear-end.
AT this point it should look like this!!!!
Next posting will be the Axle change how-to.
Info on the rear-ends
94-98 7.5s 2.73s open diff. (28 spline)
94-98 8.8s 2.73-3.27s t-lok (28 spline)
99-04 7.5s 3.27s open diff. (28 spline)
99-04 8.8s 3.27s t-lok (28 spline)
99-04 8.8s (IN mach-1) 3.55s t-lok (28 spline)
99-04 8.8s (Corbas) IRS 3.55s t-lok (28 spline)
If your doing a 94-98 stang rear-end swap.
If you can find a 94-98 rear-end I will come to that.
From what i have found out if you get a 99-04 rear-end it will have long shafts in the housing.To fix this problem you can use you 7.5 axles and just put them in the 99-04 housing to make it the right size.
If your doing a 99-04 stang rear-end swap.
You use the 94-98 rear-end You must just change over your axles and brake system to the 94-98 8.8s.Other then that you can just bolt up a 99-04 rear-end and go.
To take out the out your rear-end out of your car:
Jack up the car on the rear or lift.
Take off the wheels and tires.
Now with the wheels off you can see and reach your brakes.
Undo your brake lines.(if your doing the rear-end swap from 94-98 to 99-04 you must reuse your brake set-up)
With brakes undone to save you rotors take them off as well.
Undone your shocks on both sides.
Now take a jack or stand and put them holding the rear-end up a lil.
Undo your 4 driveshaft bolts
Undo Your upper control arms.
At this point your rear-end will only be bolted to your lower control arms.
BE CAREFUL THE SPRINGS CAN KILL YOU IF YOU DONT WATCH THEM.
Get a extra set of hands and jack up the rear-end a lil and remove your stands from under the rear-end only.Or if you just used a jack then SLOWLY lower the control arms untill the springs are fully loose = no danager!
Unbolt the last 2 bolts one the lower control arms and drag out your old rear-end.
AT this point it should look like this!!!!
Next posting will be the Axle change how-to.
Last edited by ramoyer1; 03-17-2009 at 08:20 AM.
03-17-2009, 12:54 AM
#3
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Beaufort,NC
Posts: 719
the only way for it to be really safe is to do both at the same time because if you do one side the other side will be flexed outward which could cause the springs to shoot out from the wheel well.Droping them stright down with a jack on the gear housing is the safest way other then spring clamps.
03-19-2009, 09:04 AM
#8
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RI
Posts: 5,453
So is the 8.8 tlock stronger than the 7.5 because I can get an 8.8 for $200 and get the rebuild kit for $100 and install that and get the gears when I have enough. I will still have posi for this winter when i have to drive it which should help. I'm going to look for studded snow tires. How much more does the 8.8 weigh? Like 100 pound more than the 7.5
03-19-2009, 04:57 PM
#10
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RI
Posts: 5,453
Thats a first lol. Well thanks man. Tha 100 pounds on the rear end should help in the winter too, maybe a little slower now but whatever. first winter actually driving it. Plus I did a legit burn out for the first time...and one tire smoking and leavin rubber is kinda gay.