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V6 (1994-2004) Mustangs Technical discussions on the 3.8L and 3.9L V6 torque monsters
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Drift setup?

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Old 04-26-2010, 09:46 PM   #1
Leshrac
 
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Default Drift setup?

Im looking to get my stang drifting. Right now doing research on 8.8 rear end with posi diff. 31spline with 3.73 gears. The only other mods to my car right now is short ram intake, divorced 2.5 duals, spec stage 1 clutch, steeda tri-ax shifter. Any suggestions on suspension, as far as all around coil overs, or is stock set up good for my power output? Should I even go with the 8.8 now or build one up, get a lsd and 3.73's for the 7.5 and wait for it to fail as I add more power, then put the 8.8 on? I have a somewhat limited budget as I want to get this done before gratiot in August. I could prob get 2k ish by that time. Oh its my daily driver too so I dont want the ride to be too uncomfortable.
edit
Ill be doing all the work myself so price just for parts. and yes it is a 5 spd. would the sct livewire tuner(I will eventually have forced induction) also be able to compensate for the gear change or would I still need a speedcal...noobish question I know...
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Old 04-26-2010, 10:10 PM   #2
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Im looking to get my stang drifting. Right now doing research on 8.8 rear end with posi diff. 31spline with 3.73 gears. The only other mods to my car right now is short ram intake, divorced 2.5 duals, spec stage 1 clutch, steeda tri-ax shifter. Any suggestions on suspension, as far as all around coil overs, or is stock set up good for my power output? Should I even go with the 8.8 now or build one up, get a lsd and 3.73's for the 7.5 and wait for it to fail as I add more power, then put the 8.8 on? I have a somewhat limited budget as I want to get this done before gratiot in August. I could prob get 2k ish by that time. Oh its my daily driver too so I dont want the ride to be too uncomfortable.
stock 7.5<stock 8.8<built 7.5< Built 8.8 Just something to consider. I feel like high revving motors are better for drifting, no? Can't help with the suspension.
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Old 04-26-2010, 10:42 PM   #3
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leave the 7.5" wheel speed is fairly important in drifting, the 7.5 has less rotating mass than the 8.8 and you need all the help you can get because our engines dont really rev. Mine revs to 6,000 because of the re-flash, I would reccomend that as well.

This is how I would do it:
manual transmission only.
TruTrac LSD with 3.55 or higher gear ratio
Exhaust/intake/tuner
coilovers
lca's with poly bushings
thinner, hard tires on the factory 16x7's

^This is the very minimum of what I think it would take to get one of our cars to drift. That being said, I dont think we have enough horsepower to keep a legit "drift" going, or enough RPM's to keep a legit "drift" going. Just my .02
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Old 04-26-2010, 11:00 PM   #4
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That would be soo much fun to tool around with. I feel like it'd be much easier on a 5 speed no?
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Old 04-26-2010, 11:05 PM   #5
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That would be soo much fun to tool around with. I feel like it'd be much easier on a 5 speed no?
You would need a manual car for clutch bumps. Mid drift, stab the clutch pedal with the gas pedal at a steady point. Jolts the car, keeps it going sideways. Thats how a lot of streetcars do it, the D1 cars are basically in a state of controlled power-oversteer
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Old 04-26-2010, 11:06 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaunmac9128 View Post
stock 7.5<stock 8.8<built 7.5< Built 8.8 Just something to consider. I feel like high revving motors are better for drifting, no? Can't help with the suspension.
not always- a 81 el camino with a stock 305 kicked the asses of a bunch of 240's and other 'drift' cars a few years back. ended up going to the higher up competitions in that elco. first run was with stock suspension, tires, etc

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^This is the very minimum of what I think it would take to get one of our cars to drift. That being said, I dont think we have enough horsepower to keep a legit "drift" going, or enough RPM's to keep a legit "drift" going. Just my .02
I have seen it done, I will try to find a video...
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Old 04-27-2010, 03:54 AM   #7
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You will have more control, more stability and a smoother drift with a built IRS and 125lbs less unsprung weight over an 8.8".

Kenny Brown makes an AWESOME tubular upper and lower control arm kit and coil over conversion.

A fully built 01' or 03/04 Cobra IRS with Bruce's Full Tilt boogie racing bushings, MM Brace, Diff cover Brace, KB Tubular arms, KB Steer kit, coil over conversion, MM Bracket braces, Polished Pro 5.0 drilled pinion and back-cut gears, 03/04 half shafts (01's will be fine but not as strong) and diff rebuild will kick an 8.8"s butt.

I probably forgot somethings but still you can sink several grand into that build not including the IRS.

As far as the front goes you cant go with all MM stuff up there.

Chassis stiffening; Kenny Brown Extreme Matrix kit, rear shock tower brace and Roll Cage will do you well.

Good stuff but lots of cash.
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Old 04-27-2010, 09:25 AM   #8
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thx for yalls suggestions...looks like I have some fun projects ahead! Cant wait to wake my baby up and let her have fun again, the chains of daily driving will be cut this summer.
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Old 04-27-2010, 09:35 AM   #9
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what are your plans for power?
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Old 04-27-2010, 09:52 AM   #10
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First sct livewire tuner, seeing as I havnt even tuned it yet for the intake and exhaust
Second Aluminum flywheel
then SSM stage 2+ power pack
Forged internals...havnt done enough research to decide exactly what setup to go with
finally turbo or supercharger, once again need to do more research, though I love the thought of a turbo.
urethane motor mounts somewhere in there
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Old 04-27-2010, 01:51 PM   #11
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Welp when you build the lower try to use the lightest rods and pistons that you can find.
Also you can have the 4.2L crank counterweights cut down and reballanced to reduce weight a couple more pounds and increase revving quickness and gain a little more power.

Its a road racing modification but will work great for you.

If you go with the 351W long rods then try to find them as light as you can, your stuck with only 1 piston choice if you go with the long rod though, at least I dont know of any piston that will work other than the custom ones that SSM and others have.

Your going to have to cut weight everywhere you can from 2pc brake rotors to stripping out interior parts.

Good luck, sounds like its going to be a lot of fun.
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Old 04-27-2010, 05:32 PM   #12
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Lose weight, stiff suspension and more low end power.
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Old 04-27-2010, 10:02 PM   #13
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The thunderbird/cobra IRS is way heavier than an 8.8", let alone a 7.5" with a good lsd. Pick up a TruTrac or Auburn LSD and keep the factory rear end
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Old 04-27-2010, 10:33 PM   #14
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I didn't know you could do that to the crank, seems smart. No need for the 4.2 if the 3.8 rotating assembly is lighter. Lots of weight reduction too, good point.
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Old 04-28-2010, 07:26 AM   #15
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Sweet sounds like some good suggestions. How much torque you think the 7.5 can handle before it breaks?
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Old 04-28-2010, 09:17 AM   #16
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It's been broken at stock power, others have had tlocks hold up with more power road racing. I don't know, I feel like drifting would wear out the clutch packs pretty fast, truetrac is probably the best option which can handle well I don't even know, never heard of anyone breaking one. I'm going to assume over 300ft/lbs.
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Old 04-28-2010, 09:40 AM   #17
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almost $500 for a truetrac...whew at that price wouldnt it be smarter just to upgrade to 31spline 8.8...especially since im going FI someday?
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Old 04-28-2010, 10:53 AM   #18
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Well the truetrac is stronger than a stock 8.8. And won't wear out like the clutch packs in the stock 8.8 tlock because it is mechanical. If you plan on pushing a ton of power a built 8.8 with a stronger lsd is best but I don't know if drifting puts as much stress on the rear as drag racing.
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Old 04-29-2010, 03:15 AM   #19
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Cliff, yes the IRS is a lot heavier (75-80lbs more) BUT it has 125lbs less unsprung weight than the 8.8" not to mention that it will help the V6 Mustang reach a very close 50/50 weight dist which would be great for drifting. The 99-01' Cobra have a 55/45 weight dist meaning our lighter front end sixxers are closer to the 50/50 I mentioned.

Also with the setup I suggested you will be able to drop some good weight.

A Fully built IRS is the best choice but it is also the most expensive.



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Old 04-29-2010, 08:41 AM   #20
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Makes me want to get one, but they're soo expensive.
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Old 04-29-2010, 08:41 AM
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