whole new car...?
05-16-2012, 08:47 PM
#22
Forced induction is a term used to describe any means by forcing more oxygen into the engine to increase hp.
There are several ways to do this:
N2O aka nitrous oxide. Forces a mixture of 2 parts nitrogen and one part oxygen into the engine to increase power. Upsides is you get instant power. Downsides include the possibilities of "pooling inside the intake with wet shots", more extensive tuning is required to run safely, and the power isn't endless, it last as long as the tank is full.
Turbo aka turbo charger. Uses the engines exhaust gases which are rerouted to the turbo head unit to spin a turbine which in turn forces more air into the engine. Upsides are that the turbo uses the power the engine naturally makes to drive the unit, and larger over all hp gains. Downsides include turbo lag (the time it takes the engine to rev up to spool the turbo and the lag time it takes the turbo to spool up boost), complex install, and over all cost.
Supercharger which uses the external pulley system to drive the unit. Superchargers come in three main types:
Roots, Twin Screw, & Centrifugal
Roots chargers use two tri star design blades that spin counter clockwise to one another to increase the flow of the incomming air (similar to the way you increase the flow of the stream on a water hose by closing off half the hose with your thumb). These are often called compressors as they compress the incoming air to generate boost. Roots SCs often replace the upper intake plenum. Upsides include instant boost (no lag to spool up), cost effective, ease of install. Downsides include heat soaking (units get very hot which reduces hp gains as the revs increase along with heat) and hp yield per psi (often 9-15 rwhp per PSI the lowest of forced induction units).
Twin screw units are designed nearly identical to roots bases units with the exception that instead of two tri star blades twin screw units use, as you would imagine, two screws that spin parallel to one another which further compresses incoming air which vastly improves performance. Upsides are ease of install, instant boost, and large yields of power per psi (often ranging 10-25 rwhp per psi depending on unit flow rates). Downsides are still heat soaking (which is better than roots bases units as twin screws have incorporated more complex bypass systems which helps reduce heat), and cost. Twin screw units are often double to tripple the price of other S/C units out there.
Centrifugal units look and mount like a turbo charger (off to the side of the engine in the air intake) with one main difference, they are driven by the external pullies. These are often called blowers as they compress and blow incoming air into the intake. Upsides include no heat soaking, less engine wear due to pressure loads, good psi to hp yields (similar gains as twin screw units depending on blower size), middle price range. Downsides include complex install, some units require tapping the oil pan, and small amount of spool lag as the unit doesn't always maintain a solid PSI rating (ex ample a 10 psi unit fluctuates between 7-10 PSI as it spools up to 10 PSI).
There are several ways to do this:
N2O aka nitrous oxide. Forces a mixture of 2 parts nitrogen and one part oxygen into the engine to increase power. Upsides is you get instant power. Downsides include the possibilities of "pooling inside the intake with wet shots", more extensive tuning is required to run safely, and the power isn't endless, it last as long as the tank is full.
Turbo aka turbo charger. Uses the engines exhaust gases which are rerouted to the turbo head unit to spin a turbine which in turn forces more air into the engine. Upsides are that the turbo uses the power the engine naturally makes to drive the unit, and larger over all hp gains. Downsides include turbo lag (the time it takes the engine to rev up to spool the turbo and the lag time it takes the turbo to spool up boost), complex install, and over all cost.
Supercharger which uses the external pulley system to drive the unit. Superchargers come in three main types:
Roots, Twin Screw, & Centrifugal
Roots chargers use two tri star design blades that spin counter clockwise to one another to increase the flow of the incomming air (similar to the way you increase the flow of the stream on a water hose by closing off half the hose with your thumb). These are often called compressors as they compress the incoming air to generate boost. Roots SCs often replace the upper intake plenum. Upsides include instant boost (no lag to spool up), cost effective, ease of install. Downsides include heat soaking (units get very hot which reduces hp gains as the revs increase along with heat) and hp yield per psi (often 9-15 rwhp per PSI the lowest of forced induction units).
Twin screw units are designed nearly identical to roots bases units with the exception that instead of two tri star blades twin screw units use, as you would imagine, two screws that spin parallel to one another which further compresses incoming air which vastly improves performance. Upsides are ease of install, instant boost, and large yields of power per psi (often ranging 10-25 rwhp per psi depending on unit flow rates). Downsides are still heat soaking (which is better than roots bases units as twin screws have incorporated more complex bypass systems which helps reduce heat), and cost. Twin screw units are often double to tripple the price of other S/C units out there.
Centrifugal units look and mount like a turbo charger (off to the side of the engine in the air intake) with one main difference, they are driven by the external pullies. These are often called blowers as they compress and blow incoming air into the intake. Upsides include no heat soaking, less engine wear due to pressure loads, good psi to hp yields (similar gains as twin screw units depending on blower size), middle price range. Downsides include complex install, some units require tapping the oil pan, and small amount of spool lag as the unit doesn't always maintain a solid PSI rating (ex ample a 10 psi unit fluctuates between 7-10 PSI as it spools up to 10 PSI).
Last edited by jthorn9; 05-16-2012 at 08:51 PM.
05-16-2012, 10:12 PM
#23
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location:
Posts: 1,530
4v swap, or bust IMO. Putting a 5.oh no in is a ton of work for ZERO pay off whatsoever. I've driven 5.slows with autos and 5 speeds(auto converts SUPER slow), there dogs IMO. The only decent 5.0 i've been in was an ex-chp coupe with a few mods(no head swap or anything) and it still only ran mid to low 13's, would have done better with some rear end mods, the *** end is light and will just smoke the tires up. There are links here and other places to piece a supercharger together, trust me, you'll be HAPPY with the outcome with 300ish hp to the ground. Easily pop a low 13 high 12 and it will be PLENTY of power for awhile. My philosphy is this... NEVER go backwards, always move forward. GL I hope you change your mind, you WILL thank us all LATER.
P.S This is not a biased opinion AT ALL, I don't build sixxers. I don't even own a Mustang at the moment.
P.S This is not a biased opinion AT ALL, I don't build sixxers. I don't even own a Mustang at the moment.
Last edited by JKs95stang; 05-16-2012 at 10:25 PM.
05-17-2012, 07:17 PM
#25
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location:
Posts: 1,530
Yes it is, 13's is definitely better than the number sounds. Not that impressive for 1/4 mile standards, but will def be PLENTY for a street car. Shoot, I remember the first time I popped a 14 flat (broke 100mph with a little tire spin big block mopar fairly stock, still had the orig steel wheels at the time, heck even still had the hipo manifolds, no headers). My neighbor at the time had a 99 Camaro, he wouldn't race me, little did he know he probably could of taken me, but he wasn't much of a driver so he knew better. I'd hit the corner of my street and tap the throttle(1/4ish) and pitch it sideways for a second, fish tail, and just continue straight like nothing happened. GAWD I miss big block power, but it was killing my pocket, not much for gas mileage. I was going to school and working part time commuting a 66 charger, not very practical, but fun dumping second gear(3.55's in the rear) on the freeway just to see heads snap to see what's going on. Anyway, I'll stop reliving the glory days and get back to reality, was fun while it lasted. I could of easily got that car to hit 12.90's(had stock stall, so had to walk it out), still had the cast iron waterpump, all that. It did have a battery relocation kit to the right tire so a few pounds off the front. I never did run it in the quarter when I swapped the intake(cast iron intake too) and carb(750 vac secondarys), probably hit a mid 13 or something. My first car ran 15.4's(73 barracuda,first past 16 flat, I was so pissed, 68 cougar walked me running a 15.1) LoL, I was 16, BOY I didn't need anymore power than that, I would of just wrecked it. <rant off>
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