V6 (1994-2004) Mustangs Technical discussions on the 3.8L and 3.9L V6 torque monsters

Head gasket suggestions

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Old 08-02-2013, 10:38 PM
  #11  
BabyGT
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Pay the money for a tow truck or buy lunch for a friend with a trailer, those temp sealers clog up more than just what they are sealing, and that's not good for your motor. Those are for people limping the car till they get a new car and don't have to worry about that down the road with the same motor.
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:08 AM
  #12  
99'PEGASV6
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Originally Posted by BabyGT
Pay the money for a tow truck or buy lunch for a friend with a trailer, those temp sealers clog up more than just what they are sealing, and that's not good for your motor. Those are for people limping the car till they get a new car and don't have to worry about that down the road with the same motor.

What temp sealer? BLue devil?

Last edited by 99'PEGASV6; 08-05-2013 at 10:47 AM.
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:57 AM
  #13  
dawson1112
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Originally Posted by 99'PEGASV6
What temp sealer? BLue devil?


yes that blue devil junk . I would never put it in my motor not even temporarily.
Next thing you will be replacing is the radiator and heater core. And youll have your whole cooling system gummed up. .
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:52 PM
  #14  
TomKat
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summit racing
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Old 08-05-2013, 04:06 PM
  #15  
mustangman02232
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I ran bars head gasket sealer in my old Toyota pick up for over 6 months and 10k lol, replacing the heater core with the motor wasn't fun though
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Old 08-08-2013, 10:20 PM
  #16  
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If having towed or trailered absolutely isn't an option, you can always just take backroads to the place where the work is being done and pull over and let the motor cool down every time the temp gauge goes past normal operating temp. This is assuming you have more time than money, and that overheating is the issue that made this head gasket change necessary to begin with. That's what I did with my previous car that had the gaskets blown wide open.
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Old 09-18-2013, 03:28 PM
  #17  
99'PEGASV6
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Hey guys giving an update.

So I've had some money issues and i'm still saving 500$ for this dude to do the job for me.

Today i went to autozone and picked up a block tester. I saw that this is a pretty good way to see if my head gasket is cracked. Just like the following video:


I used it in the radiator cap and the fluid reservoir. I failed the test and there doesn't seem to be any combustion gas in there. So i'm confused as hell.

What else could it be with these following symptoms:

-Oil/gunk in my coolant reservoir/system
-Sweet smell out of my exhaust like i'm burning off coolant
-White smoke (sometimes very heavy)
-Oil is dark (cause its very old ) but there doesn't seem to be any milky coloring when I use the dipstick... just dark old oil.
-CAR DOES NOT OVERHEAT
I took it to the gas station and ran it like a daily driver and even let it idle for like 30 minutes... the car did not overheat and now i'm confused.......... I'm just going to be sad if it turns out to be something else because I bought the headgasket set and head bolt sets.

Could it be anything else? Anymore tests I could possibly do? Could it be a cracked exhaust manifold that would let oil into the coolant reservoir but not the other way around?

Thanks for the help fellas.... ugh


edit;;---------------------
wow the video embedded itself automatically... I haven't been on MF for a while.. NICE!
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Old 09-18-2013, 06:20 PM
  #18  
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I would just get a used engine out of a junk yard your going to be putting in more work fixing your heads then just putting in a used engine
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Old 09-18-2013, 10:18 PM
  #19  
99'PEGASV6
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How is getting an engine from a junkyard any easier than what I'm going through...I'm not doing the labor. And i'm NOT replacing any heads..the heads should be fine. which was discussed earlier in the thread.
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:36 AM
  #20  
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I agree with you. Replacing the motor is not easier.

As for the test you did, that is not a conclusive test for a blown head gasket. It only tests for cracks between the combustion chambers and the coolant passages. It doesn’t test for cracks between the combustion chambers and the oil passages, or cracks between the coolant passages and the oil passages. It is also not fool proof either. Some cracks only start to leak due to metal expansion after the motor has fully warmed up. So you should test it when the motor is cold and when the motor is at normal operating temp. You should also test it from the radiator cap since the coolant reservoir is not sealed and also only flows once the radiator cap has opened up (which only happens if the cooling system reaches whatever the PSI rating is for your cap which only happens when the coolant gets hot). Additionally, you need to wait for the thermostat to open in order to allow for any gases to circulate from near the combustion chambers into the coolant passages, into the radiator and up into your testers tube.

Good luck...
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