Supercharger use on track?
Just a quick question before dwelling more into this. Has anyone had experience or knows about FI when used in racing conditions? I.e. kept at near red line for over 25 min at a time.
I have a 1999 3.8l 5-speed that I track regularly with (about 4-8 events a year or roughly 12-24 times 30 min sessions). I was thinking of different ways to make power for the straights and supercharging seems the most favorable root.
I'm looking at centrifugal superchargers only, and tbh my FI knowledge is limited. The only superchargers I ran across were the P-1SC and the V-3 S-trim.
Most reviews talk about daily-driver usage, but I'm more curious about how the stock 3.8 internals handle max boost (7-9 psi) for long periods of time.
I don't want to put too much money into this, as its just for experimentation purposes. I'm hoping to achieve somewhere close to 320 rwhp with the supercharger + dyno tune, computer chip, fuel injectors, CAI and maybe a UDP.
Is 320 a realistic goal? Based on general calculations, if a P-1SC stage 1 gives a min of 40% hp gain, that means with a base of 190 rwhp and then 15-25hp through computer chip and CAI, etc. that would land me at 290hp. With 50% it would be 310hp.
Will a 3.8 with stock internals handle max boost at 7 to 9 psi for 25-35 min at a time?
If so, what supercharger (centrifugal) will you recommend and what is the realistic power output (at the wheels) I'd expect?
I know there's a ton of posts on SC's, but none I found talk about track use. I know a guy who ran an SC on his S2000 and tracked it with so many problems (mainly oil line leaks), so I'm worried about it myself.
OK let's cover a few things first.
The super charger selection for 94-04 Mustangs is rather limited, only Vortech and Paxton made kits for those years, and neither of which, to my knowledge, still produce kits today.
The superchargers they made, in kit form, were intended for stock/near stock cars for street/limited track use only.
To run the car in the manner you're talking about you're gonna have to spend some cash. There isn't any way around it. Superchargers put a lot of added stress on an engine and it's accessories. Don't built the engine right for the application and you're gonna fry it the first time around.
So in short you need to get forged internals. Yes the factory internals will hold up to around 10 PSI "safely" but for short burst of time. Prolonged boost may damaged the factory components.
Secondly, both companies made "improved" units. Meaning stronger internals and smaller pullies for more boost. Once you make your decision you need to call up the company and ask them how the factory kit units hold up under those loads. You may need to buy an upgrade/rebuild kit to handle the added stress.
You're also gonna have to overhaul your transmission. This is often the most over looked component of any build and the most important. Your factory transmission is neither built or rated for those kinds of stress levels. You will need to get heavy duty internals that are rated for around 300-400 ftlbs of torque.
Which parts of the engine would take priority when coming to forged internals? I.e. would I just need to get a forged crank, or pistons/ rods, etc.?
Trying to avoid going the forged internal route, I wouldn't mind hurting the engine during the process as long as the SC stays alive (and as long as the engine stays alive/repairable during the process).
I wouldn't mind rebuilding the transmission. Any specific kits you would recommend? AM sells the ford racing rebuild kit for the T-5.
Judging from your post I don't think I'll be going the SC route now, that's exactly what I needed to know - thank you :icon_beerchug:
Basic bolt-ons it is.
There are other things I would do on a V6 that sees a lot of track time to make it fasters/more fun before the blower.
That being said, there are a few things that contradict themselves. You will want a good dyno tune - so no 'chip' is needed. You will not want an UDP, as it will limit the performance of your blower. CAI isn't used, either.
For an open track Mustang, I HIGHLY suggest the ProCharger (with the intercooler) over the other V6 kits made. From what I have seen, they are the best made, will offer the least problems and give you the best power result for the type of driving you are talking about.
If you have a good tune and take care of the car, I would shoot for about 300 hp on an otherwise stock motor - which is very do-able with the ProCharger. It will make a very fun track car, if you have the rest of the car sorted out (suspension & brakes).
Got details about the rest of the car?
A good dyno tune is for sure if I supercharge. If I have extra money and time Iíll get the heads cleaned and ported too (but thatís a big MAYBE).
The procharger kit you talk about is the one I have in mind. The price point is a bit daunting so Iíll be hunting for overstock sales or a used kit (any tips on going used?).
So would you say that that kit will handle the stresses from short track sessions? More so, would the stock internals be alright with the required maintenance etc.? And if so, how much boost is the most I can run on it?
There has been some work done to the car. Hereís a quick list:
Maximum motorsports MM3 coil over kit (Best road racing dampers offered by MM)
MM road race control arms
MM full length SFCís
Ford racing differential bushings
MM camber plates
Hyper coil springs at 475/425lb F/R
MM front bump steer kit
^All of the above are yet to be installed^
OMP Champ FIA seat (bolted to floor)
OMP Superquadro steering wheel
Hawk blue brakes all around (soon to be upgraded to HT-10 or DTC-70/60)
ATE blue fluid
SS lines front and rear
Sumitomo HTRZ-3 tires (soon to run non-dot slicks)
17x9 aluminum wheels (to be swapped with 18x9/9.5ís Ėeasier to find slicks in those sizes)
UPR clutch cable adjuster
MM clutch pedal height adjuster
Steeda aluminum clutch quadrant
Steeda Tri-Ax shifter
SCT tune at 93 octane
I also need to replace the clutch as well as the differential as theyíre almost done. Theyíll be replaced with a stronger clutch and an LSD.
As well, the entire of the interior is stripped (takes guts to gut out a perfectly good looking interior)
Thatís pretty much everything haha.
Thank you :icon_smile:
Roush can clarify the rest, but in addition to my post and to answer your question, by forged internals I mean forged everything, complete rotating assembly.
As Roush stated a essex 3.8L can handle around 350 bhp safely. However that is for short durations of time, I highly doubt the stock internals will hold up long under the loads for increased durations of time.
As far as it damaging the engine yet being repairable, that's a severe crap shot. It could damage the engine in multiple ways, the worst of which being a piston shooting through the block, or throwing a bearing in the crank. Either scenario will likely completely destroy the motor/block itself.
I would not take short cuts doing this. Sure it saves $1000 or so, but it will cost double to triple that to repair what "could" be damaged by not doing it right the first time.
First off, that sounds like a killer car. You gotta post some pics as you get it all put together.
The car is supposed to be turned into a full-out race car eventually, but pics will be up once the coil-overs are in and the interior cleaned up a bit (summer '14) :smile:
The motor is in good shape, it's just the driveline that can't handle the stresses from the track very well (or maybe I just abuse it too much). Engine has no overheating issues (knock on wood) and runs fine on the track with 30 min sessions back to back with only 10 to 15 min breaks.
9 psi sounds ideal for the time being, just want to make the car accelerate quicker. Going the forged internal route isn't very appealing since a) I haven't rebuilt an engine before and b) if I forge internals I won't have money left to supercharge it.
I get what you mean by power isn't everything in road courses - I've sat in M3's and S2000's with slicks, big brakes, and coilovers and God those things can stop ridiculously quick and turn even faster.
But power is always fun :D I just want to be more competitive with the faster cars out there. It's not fun when you don't have anyone to chase around the track and be chased by - I'm driving the car at roughly 85 to 88% of its limit on average.
Supercharging sounds fun because it really is just a bolt-on, and I can always sell it or re-use it on another engine.
But the more I think about it, the more I wonder if I should go this route so early. With just the coilovers on the car and slicks (and more balls) I should be getting pretty quick.
I just want a 'vette damnit :icon_rant:
I don't think there are videos. It was awhile ago.
Roush is right about the Vettes, you don't want one. Corvettes, while nice, are probably one of the worst performance cars to buy in the United States. Here's what I mean by that. Take any two $50,000 cars, for my example I'll use these two:
Both retail for around $55,000 (depending on location and dealer incentives). Then take a look at their 10 year depreciated value with similar millage. In general the Corvette will depreciate all the way to the low 20s high teens with decent millage, the Cobra.....well that will still demand a high 20 low 30 all day long.
Corvettes are severely marked up and, except for specialty/older models, have next to no resale value versus their initial price.
They're also extremely one demensional. Meaning they're only good at showing off and for racing. You can't haul much in one or do much else. At least with a Mustang, if need be, you can carry 5 people, and or haul a nice little load in the car.
I came very close to buying a Corvette back in 20011 when I sold my 99 Cobra and bought my 08 GT. But in the end I decided on the Mustang and I'm still satisfied with my choice to this day. In fact, I'm glad I didn't get the Vette which I've learned from actual Vette owners, aren't so hot, even at depreciated values.
Haha I was just ranting :p
I love the mustang platform, specifically the SN95, because they are so damn hard to make fast around turns. It sort of forces you to engineer your own solutions, and the sense of accomplishment when you get it right is worth all the work. They're also fun little things, even for a v6, it's so easy to throw it around corners and it has enough torque to cover up your mistakes.
Even with stock suspension the SN95 is surprisingly well balanced. I've had instructors that drive full blown race cars to M3 drivers comment on it.
I like the corvette for the fact that it's a faster platform out of factory than most mustangs when it comes to the racetrack. If I were to tear down a 'vette and turn it into a full-blown race car, I'd have a ton of potential (in terms of maximum speed down straights and through corners). Sort of like an upgrade after I finish the mustang and have a ton of fun with it.
I never buy new because of the whole depreciation stuff anyways.
And I'm sure you'll hate my mustang, since it only has a driver seat :icon_woot:
Lol, that aside, mustang rules in its own respect. Experimenting with different cars is fun too. I can sit behind any car and find a way to make the most out of it (except FWD cars - dunno just don't like them).
And roush you need videos!
I'll post some up next year when I have the coilovers and slicks in. Judging from some calculations, I should be performing in the same lap time category as most S2000's and M3's at the track, and maybe a newbie driving a vette. :icon_redcam:
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