Electric Seat Issue
#1
Electric Seat Issue
Hi, I have a 1998 3.8L mustang convertible. I bought it 4 years ago at a great price with plans to replace the bad/non-working parts and give it to my son when he is old enough to drive. That time is quickly approaching.
The seats were in terrible condition so I got rid of them and found a set a guy was selling and bought them. Now I have a problem with the electric drivers seat. It turns out the replacement seats are from a 2001 mustang.
The cable for the electric seats that comes out of the floor-board of my '98 mustang has a two-prong connector at the end, while the cable from the 2001 drivers seat has a 4-prong connector. Needless to say, they do not fit together.
Does anyone know if mustang (or any third party vendor) sells an adapter that would allow me to connect these mismatched connectors?
If not, is it possible that the connectors could be removed and the wires spliced together? The car has two wires (1 light blue and 1 Black). The seat has 4 wires (2 teal green and 2 black).
The only seat function I really want/need to work is the forward/reverse. I'm sure 2 of the 4 cables from the seat must control that function.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
The seats were in terrible condition so I got rid of them and found a set a guy was selling and bought them. Now I have a problem with the electric drivers seat. It turns out the replacement seats are from a 2001 mustang.
The cable for the electric seats that comes out of the floor-board of my '98 mustang has a two-prong connector at the end, while the cable from the 2001 drivers seat has a 4-prong connector. Needless to say, they do not fit together.
Does anyone know if mustang (or any third party vendor) sells an adapter that would allow me to connect these mismatched connectors?
If not, is it possible that the connectors could be removed and the wires spliced together? The car has two wires (1 light blue and 1 Black). The seat has 4 wires (2 teal green and 2 black).
The only seat function I really want/need to work is the forward/reverse. I'm sure 2 of the 4 cables from the seat must control that function.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
#3
Found Seat Adapter...Still Need Help
I finally found someone who made exactly what I need...a basic "plug-n-play" adapter that links an electric seat from any 1994-1998 Mustang (2-Pin) to an electric seat from any 1999-2004 Mustang (4-Pin).
The plugs fit perfectly at both ends but the seats do not move with the vehicle running. I honestly don't not if it's the new adapter harness or the seat itself. We bought the seats several months ago and back then the seller told us the electric drivers seat worked but it was not in the vehicle as he had already put his new seats in it. At this point, I'm trying to determine where I can take the seat (and the new adapter harness) to find out if the motors are getting power and if the harness is wired properly...basically isolating the source to find out which one is not working properly.
Any advice on how to determine which is not working, the seat motors or the adapter, would be GREATLY appreciated!
Photos Attached
Thanks
The plugs fit perfectly at both ends but the seats do not move with the vehicle running. I honestly don't not if it's the new adapter harness or the seat itself. We bought the seats several months ago and back then the seller told us the electric drivers seat worked but it was not in the vehicle as he had already put his new seats in it. At this point, I'm trying to determine where I can take the seat (and the new adapter harness) to find out if the motors are getting power and if the harness is wired properly...basically isolating the source to find out which one is not working properly.
Any advice on how to determine which is not working, the seat motors or the adapter, would be GREATLY appreciated!
Photos Attached
Thanks
#4
Why take it to a shop to have them look at it? Do it yourself. Its very simple. You can pick up a volt-meter (or better yet a multi-meter) for $20 at most electronics, auto parts, and/or hardware stores. You don’t need fancy.
Anyway, you can test that it is at least getting power by setting the meter to as close to 15V without going under. Put the key in the ON position, engine off. Then touch the black meter lead to the negative battery post and the red meter lead to one of the wholes in the 2 wire connector on the wires coming out of your carpet. Then touch the red lead to the other whole in the connector. One of them should have 12 volts. If not, then the problem is between the connector & the battery. Probably a blown fuse. If the connector has power, post back up and I’ll help you walk it down. My wifey has the same ride as you and I have the electrical diagrams for it.
tip: if your meter leads are too short, you can use some scrap speaker wire, electrical cord, ethernet cable (my preference) or regular 18 gauge wire to extend the length of your leads.
tip: don’t jam the tip of the meter lead into the connector wholes. You’ll spread the contacts. Just lightly touch the metal inside the whole with the tip of the meter lead.
Good luck...
Anyway, you can test that it is at least getting power by setting the meter to as close to 15V without going under. Put the key in the ON position, engine off. Then touch the black meter lead to the negative battery post and the red meter lead to one of the wholes in the 2 wire connector on the wires coming out of your carpet. Then touch the red lead to the other whole in the connector. One of them should have 12 volts. If not, then the problem is between the connector & the battery. Probably a blown fuse. If the connector has power, post back up and I’ll help you walk it down. My wifey has the same ride as you and I have the electrical diagrams for it.
tip: if your meter leads are too short, you can use some scrap speaker wire, electrical cord, ethernet cable (my preference) or regular 18 gauge wire to extend the length of your leads.
tip: don’t jam the tip of the meter lead into the connector wholes. You’ll spread the contacts. Just lightly touch the metal inside the whole with the tip of the meter lead.
Good luck...
Last edited by petrock; 11-23-2013 at 12:40 AM.
#5
Thanks do much for the great information! That is exactly why I came to this forum...to get the pragmatic information I need from a wonderful group of experts that are willing to share their knowledge with a complete novice like me.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
#7
really got rid of many of my headaches from here. Thanks everyone!
#10
No, I only said that because the first person I told they weren't working asked if the car was running, so I just put that in there to pre-answer anyone who might think to ask that particular question. Thanks