Looking for some insight
04-25-2014, 01:09 AM
#11
Well I can tell you a quick fix for your trunk. Mine was having the same problem, as the struts just wear down over time. Look up Latemodel Restoration. They sell replacements for like 40 bucks. Quick easy fix. That will be at least one thing done lol
04-25-2014, 02:01 PM
#12
Ok lets see...my opinions...
1.Do you see it leaking on the ground? When its running and under pressure do you see or hear it spraying? If so leak. If not and you have white smoke or smell burned coolant then ya got a bad head gasket.
2.Belt could have coolant on it making it slip. It could be stretched fix it with the tensioner pulley. May just need replacing.
3. New one to me. If you're sure its the exhaust then perhaps a bad baffle?
and
1. Mine has never auto raised. I dotn think Ive ever seen one do that. If it stays up then what does it matter?
2. If the bulb is ok then check fuses. If they are ok then it could be the door switch itself. If both doors dont make it come on then Im lost hhaha.
That click is where the inside dome light comes on if you pass that click. So basically you have power going to your dome light all the time even with the car off. Since your light isn't working then it may not matter or it could cause a slow battery drain.
1.Do you see it leaking on the ground? When its running and under pressure do you see or hear it spraying? If so leak. If not and you have white smoke or smell burned coolant then ya got a bad head gasket.
2.Belt could have coolant on it making it slip. It could be stretched fix it with the tensioner pulley. May just need replacing.
3. New one to me. If you're sure its the exhaust then perhaps a bad baffle?
and
1. Mine has never auto raised. I dotn think Ive ever seen one do that. If it stays up then what does it matter?
2. If the bulb is ok then check fuses. If they are ok then it could be the door switch itself. If both doors dont make it come on then Im lost hhaha.
That click is where the inside dome light comes on if you pass that click. So basically you have power going to your dome light all the time even with the car off. Since your light isn't working then it may not matter or it could cause a slow battery drain.
04-29-2014, 09:30 AM
#13
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Virginia
Posts: 86
Hey guys, sorry for the late replies and appreciation. Work has been hectic. I had a buddy of mine look at my tire vibrating issue and he said it's because my Rack and Pinion Bushing is wearing and loose or something. Is this an expensive/tedious repair on a 1999 V6 Mustang? I'm also replacing the serpentine belt and perhaps re-doing my exhaust.
I also noticed when I don't turn my heat on (Now that it's hotter outside) my coolant lasts 10x longer. I filled up my coolant about a week and a half ago and it's about at the same it was when I filled it looks like. However, during the winter when I was blasting the heat, it was eating a full thing of coolant every 2 weeks or so. What could be the issue there?
I also noticed when I don't turn my heat on (Now that it's hotter outside) my coolant lasts 10x longer. I filled up my coolant about a week and a half ago and it's about at the same it was when I filled it looks like. However, during the winter when I was blasting the heat, it was eating a full thing of coolant every 2 weeks or so. What could be the issue there?
04-29-2014, 01:03 PM
#14
Sounds like your heater core is leaking, this is a MUCH better issue to have, a pain to fix but much cheaper. The ghetto fix would be to buy a union and take the two lines that go to the heater core off and connect them together. You will no longer have heat (which means defrost won't work) but you won't have a leak anymore if it is indeed the heater core.
Bushings for the rack are cheap and easy to do. If your a skinny guy you might not wen have to lift the car to change them.
Bushings for the rack are cheap and easy to do. If your a skinny guy you might not wen have to lift the car to change them.
04-29-2014, 09:18 PM
#15
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Virginia
Posts: 86
Thanks man! By the way in my previous post I meant the steering wheel vibrating, not the tire.
Also, while I'm changing the bushings, should I go ahead and change the tie rods too since it's around the same area or do you think those are good? I don't know much about this stuff. I know if I change the tie rods though, I'll have to get an alignment and I think those are like $80-100? Not really wanting to pay that if I don't have to.
Will I need an alignment after changing the bushings?
Also, while I'm changing the bushings, should I go ahead and change the tie rods too since it's around the same area or do you think those are good? I don't know much about this stuff. I know if I change the tie rods though, I'll have to get an alignment and I think those are like $80-100? Not really wanting to pay that if I don't have to.
Will I need an alignment after changing the bushings?
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