Heater Core Leak?
#11
Ease off on additives, and running higher octane is not good either, higher octane will not burn better or make the car run better. It's designed and tuned from the factory to run on standard grade fuel. The sputtering you say you hear, what's your exhaust setup? I'd call that an exhaust leak.
#12
Ease off on additives, and running higher octane is not good either, higher octane will not burn better or make the car run better. It's designed and tuned from the factory to run on standard grade fuel. The sputtering you say you hear, what's your exhaust setup? I'd call that an exhaust leak.
As for the exhaust leak, why would the sputtering just now be happening when the RPM's have began fluctuating and the idle is poor? I know I've been hearing a loud rattle under my car since I bought it that has gotten somewhat worse at certain times. Especially when the car is warm after a long drive. If the car is cold you rarely hear it, but once she warms up the rattle happens every time I press the gas.
Maybe the exhaust is coming undone and I should get it on a lift and look at it?
#14
It's a much different kind of rattle from what I've heard on Youtube videos just now of valve rattle. It genuinely sounds like there's something loose under the vehicle.
The last time I changed my oil, I tried to reproduce the issue while it was up on jack stands and I looked under the car to see if there was anything noticeable but I didn't find anything.
The last time I changed my oil, I tried to reproduce the issue while it was up on jack stands and I looked under the car to see if there was anything noticeable but I didn't find anything.
#15
I'm not sure what an IAC is but off the top of my head, I've replaced these things this year:
- Spark Plugs
- Spark Plug Wires
- Fuel Filter
- PCV Valve
- Thermostat
- Tie Rods
- Air Filter (K&N 50k Mile re-cleanable)
- Switched to using K&N Oil Filters with anti-drain back because FRAM's were giving me issues with starting my car in the morning.
- Few bad fuses
Then I've done the following because I originally thought it was a dirty fuel system. I've ran 2 cans of seafoam through the fuel tank, ran 93 octane for the past 3 fill-ups (Plan to go back to 87 next tank) and I've got STP Fuel Injector Cleaner in it right now. All cleaners used with a full tank.
I don't plan on putting any more additives or cleaners in my fuel for a very long time. I know I overkilled it but after 2 seafoam runs with no success I heard STP was pretty good.
- Spark Plugs
- Spark Plug Wires
- Fuel Filter
- PCV Valve
- Thermostat
- Tie Rods
- Air Filter (K&N 50k Mile re-cleanable)
- Switched to using K&N Oil Filters with anti-drain back because FRAM's were giving me issues with starting my car in the morning.
- Few bad fuses
Then I've done the following because I originally thought it was a dirty fuel system. I've ran 2 cans of seafoam through the fuel tank, ran 93 octane for the past 3 fill-ups (Plan to go back to 87 next tank) and I've got STP Fuel Injector Cleaner in it right now. All cleaners used with a full tank.
I don't plan on putting any more additives or cleaners in my fuel for a very long time. I know I overkilled it but after 2 seafoam runs with no success I heard STP was pretty good.
K&N filters are good but I know of a few instances were the oil gummed up the MAF (mass air flow) sensor, clean both and don't re-oil the filter
This could be causing a bigger issue than you originally had. Seafoam is petroleum based and doesn't burn as easy as gas. This is why the instructions say only 1/3 can in the fuel tank
#16
IAC=Idle Air Control
K&N filters are good but I know of a few instances were the oil gummed up the MAF (mass air flow) sensor, clean both and don't re-oil the filter
This could be causing a bigger issue than you originally had. Seafoam is petroleum based and doesn't burn as easy as gas. This is why the instructions say only 1/3 can in the fuel tank
K&N filters are good but I know of a few instances were the oil gummed up the MAF (mass air flow) sensor, clean both and don't re-oil the filter
This could be causing a bigger issue than you originally had. Seafoam is petroleum based and doesn't burn as easy as gas. This is why the instructions say only 1/3 can in the fuel tank
Either way, I'm not going to be using any more cleaners anymore. I would like to clean my vacuum lines out though, if that would help anything. Would I just want to seafoam those or is there a better method?
#17
Just ran the codes and got these:
P0340 - Camshaft Sensor A Bank 1 Circuit Malfunction
P0411 - Air injection system incorrect flow (I've had this code since I bought the car. It has to do with emissions and it's had this code long before I ever had any of these relevant problems. Cleaned the MAF in the past and it didn't fix it. We concluded that it was because of the BBK headers that's on the car but I don't know.
P1309 - DTC Definition Not Found. See service manual.
Alright, so I saw that a sensor was malfunctioned so the first thing I thought of was that maybe I hit something while I was installing the thermostat since it was such a pain for my hands to get in there. Sure enough, there was a sensor above it that was undone a bit. I replugged it in and pushed down to make sure it was in and restarted the car. The sputtering is gone, but the RPM fluctuation is still there. I'm unable to determine if this is the same RPM fluctuation I had yesterday, or if it's the one I mentioned in a previous thread that only happens when the car is warm, because it was warm when I ran the codes.
The last code is related to the camshaft sensor which I think came from the sensor being unplugged a bit. I'll need to reset the battery and run the codes again to see if it was fixed. I could be completely wrong about all of this though so I guess it's just a matter of time.
P0340 - Camshaft Sensor A Bank 1 Circuit Malfunction
P0411 - Air injection system incorrect flow (I've had this code since I bought the car. It has to do with emissions and it's had this code long before I ever had any of these relevant problems. Cleaned the MAF in the past and it didn't fix it. We concluded that it was because of the BBK headers that's on the car but I don't know.
P1309 - DTC Definition Not Found. See service manual.
Alright, so I saw that a sensor was malfunctioned so the first thing I thought of was that maybe I hit something while I was installing the thermostat since it was such a pain for my hands to get in there. Sure enough, there was a sensor above it that was undone a bit. I replugged it in and pushed down to make sure it was in and restarted the car. The sputtering is gone, but the RPM fluctuation is still there. I'm unable to determine if this is the same RPM fluctuation I had yesterday, or if it's the one I mentioned in a previous thread that only happens when the car is warm, because it was warm when I ran the codes.
The last code is related to the camshaft sensor which I think came from the sensor being unplugged a bit. I'll need to reset the battery and run the codes again to see if it was fixed. I could be completely wrong about all of this though so I guess it's just a matter of time.
Last edited by Villiska; 12-04-2014 at 10:37 AM.
#18
Looking into what BabyGT recommended about the IAC, I've read about it and it sounds exactly like my issue. Good start, rough idle, give it some gas and it smooths out. That's exactly what happens. I'm going to give the IAC a good cleaning and possibly replace it if needed, and while I'm at it I'll check the MAF and see if it's dirty.
Would it be a good idea to run seafoam through the vacuum lines or should I just leave that be?
Would it be a good idea to run seafoam through the vacuum lines or should I just leave that be?